• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Ampeg PF800

I've had mine since February, 2014. I run it through an SVT810e. Plenty of power, great tone, and rock solid reliability. I've found it to be the closest to a tube amp sound that's possible without tubes.

I absolutely love the PF800 through the 810e, just simply awesome even on my lower notes on the 5vers. I wish I wanted to haul that cab to my gigs though, but just is not going to happen on most of them. What would be a smaller cab that would do the 810 thing? Is the only option the 210 ampeg version and will two of those equal the 810e running only half? I have heard the equivalent 410 sealed is not the same since a tweeter was designed into the box.
 
I absolutely love the PF800 through the 810e, just simply awesome even on my lower notes on the 5vers. I wish I wanted to haul that cab to my gigs though, but just is not going to happen on most of them. What would be a smaller cab that would do the 810 thing? Is the only option the 210 ampeg version and will two of those equal the 810e running only half? I have heard the equivalent 410 sealed is not the same since a tweeter was designed into the box.

I also have the Micro VR with 2 cabs, SVT210AV's. It's not half an SVT810e. While I have no experience with it, the Berg (?) 610 gets great reviews.

I was thinking of just building 2 speaker boxes for 2x10's based off the dimensions of the SVT, and loading them with 4 replacement drivers. I have to imagine that would be half an SVT. If I ever get around to it, I'll report back.
 
I absolutely love the PF800 through the 810e, just simply awesome even on my lower notes on the 5vers. I wish I wanted to haul that cab to my gigs though, but just is not going to happen on most of them. What would be a smaller cab that would do the 810 thing? Is the only option the 210 ampeg version and will two of those equal the 810e running only half? I have heard the equivalent 410 sealed is not the same since a tweeter was designed into the box.
The 410he isn't an exact sonic duplicate but it's extremely close, and you'd never be able to tell unless you AB'd them next to each other. The 410he uses the same speakers as the 810e, and will do 5k just like the 810e without the tweeter on. For all intents and purposes, it sounds the same, just smaller. Ampeg also has a 4 ohm 212 now and an 8 ohm 112. These I've not heard, but I'm told they're closer in spirit to the 810e as well, though from the specs, they don't seem like sonic duplicates of the 810e.

And no, two 210av's sounds great, but they're not the same. They're lighter duty in smaller cabs, and they do sound killer but they're lighter in the lows than the 810e. I just boost the bass knob a bit and I get what I need out of them, but a 410he and 810e have more naturally produced lows.
 
  • Like
Reactions: AlexanderB
I also have the Micro VR with 2 cabs, SVT210AV's. It's not half an SVT810e. While I have no experience with it, the Berg (?) 610 gets great reviews.

I was thinking of just building 2 speaker boxes for 2x10's based off the dimensions of the SVT, and loading them with 4 replacement drivers. I have to imagine that would be half an SVT. If I ever get around to it, I'll report back.


Yeah, I was also considering that, box size is easy to establish as well as driver type. I just get so lazy when it comes time to get out in the shop and start the process :cool:
 
www.fliptops.net sells repros of most of Ampeg's discontinued cabs. But you'd have to get 4 ohm speakers to do an 8 ohm 210, so that rules out OEM.

What I was thinking of doing was to eventually build 4 cabs, each with 2x10's. Kind of recreating an SVT but in 4 separate cabinets. Replacement 32 ohm speakers would yield the 4 ohm total load when all 4 cabs were used, or 8 ohms when 2 were used. They could be used individually, but they'd be 16 ohm cabs, not ideal.
 
What I was thinking of doing was to eventually build 4 cabs, each with 2x10's. Kind of recreating an SVT but in 4 separate cabinets. Replacement 32 ohm speakers would yield the 4 ohm total load when all 4 cabs were used, or 8 ohms when 2 were used. They could be used individually, but they'd be 16 ohm cabs, not ideal.
Yeah, I would just take my 810 then. I would want two 8 ohm 210's
 
Hey JimmB now that I remember... I used the PF in that particular case I mentioned with couple of blown 10's before doing the update to the cab. That potentially was the issue on that gig...
Ampeg's been pretty honest about their power ratings. There was some controversy a couple years ago about the SVT 7 Pro not meeting spec in a Bass Gear review, but a couple other scopes of one hit the marks. And other folks I've read about on the net who have scoped other Ampeg amps said they hit their marks, too, so while I haven't personally scoped them or even know how it's done, I believe them.
 
I got a question on the DI of the PF800. Is it just me or is the DI ultra-hot?
I was just trying to do some home recordings of it and was finding that Post EQ, I had to engage the 40db pad on the back and also engage the 15db active instrument pad on the front end just to get a signal that wasn't clipping my USB audio at its lowest input levels. I've never used this one live with a DI signal... I doubt I would have to do the same live just to get a usable line level to the board... right?

Can anyone shed any light on this?
 
I got a question on the DI of the PF800. Is it just me or is the DI ultra-hot?
I was just trying to do some home recordings of it and was finding that Post EQ, I had to engage the 40db pad on the back and also engage the 15db active instrument pad on the front end just to get a signal that wasn't clipping my USB audio at its lowest input levels. I've never used this one live with a DI signal... I doubt I would have to do the same live just to get a usable line level to the board... right?

Can anyone shed any light on this?

I used it live the other night. I run an active 5 and don't pad the input, I also did not have to pad the output, at least I don't think is was, and it was fine.
 
I got a question on the DI of the PF800. Is it just me or is the DI ultra-hot?
I was just trying to do some home recordings of it and was finding that Post EQ, I had to engage the 40db pad on the back and also engage the 15db active instrument pad on the front end just to get a signal that wasn't clipping my USB audio at its lowest input levels. I've never used this one live with a DI signal... I doubt I would have to do the same live just to get a usable line level to the board... right?

Can anyone shed any light on this?
That's one thing I haven't done yet...play with the XLR out. Going out soon...might have some time later tonight. Wouldn't be surprised if it was hot, especially with the gain up. PF350 could get hot like that.
 
I got a question on the DI of the PF800. Is it just me or is the DI ultra-hot?
I was just trying to do some home recordings of it and was finding that Post EQ, I had to engage the 40db pad on the back and also engage the 15db active instrument pad on the front end just to get a signal that wasn't clipping my USB audio at its lowest input levels. I've never used this one live with a DI signal... I doubt I would have to do the same live just to get a usable line level to the board... right?

Can anyone shed any light on this?

It was for me. Had to turn everything WAY down for recording. Wasn't sure if I was doing something wrong or what.
 
It is very hot, so I don't use the internal DI.
And that is a shame, 'cause now the pre-amp of the PF800 wont go to the FOH.
So, that's why I use the VT Bass whenever I need p.a. support.
The VT Bass will go to the FOH.
Maybe something for Ampeg to adjust?
 
It is very hot, so I don't use the internal DI.
And that is a shame, 'cause now the pre-amp of the PF800 wont go to the FOH.
So, that's why I use the VT Bass whenever I need p.a. support.
The VT Bass will go to the FOH.
Maybe something for Ampeg to adjust?


Are you running the PF800 DI post? I always run my DI pre so the desk does not get too much color for the sound guy to fight with. I wonder how much hotter it is post compared to pre, of course that will depend on your settings. EQ for a cab and stage sound is not always what the sound guy wants or needs to make bass sound good in my experience. However, if you do your own sound, or have a regular sound guy that knows your settings, and/or get the time to shake it out first I am sure it works great.
 
Spent some more time messing with the internal DI tonight. The Post EQ levels (at my normal EQ settings) without the 40db pad engaged were blowing up my USB Audio. This is unfortunate because that is how I would be running my amp (with a higher gain level). Not to mention there was some really terrible hissing and fizzing of the signal when it was clipping the XLR. The 40db cut was taming the signal, but so much so that I found myself having to crank the input on my audio box to bring it back to usable levels which started introducing some line noise. Not the best scenario, if you ask me. The Pre EQ signal was a more realistic level, but it's really not a great option for me personally, since I find a flat DI signal leaves a lot to be desired.

Not anything against Ampeg necessarily, but I'm curious why any company would give you a post EQ, XLR option that is so finicky to work with? I thought that was the whole point of a line out - to make it as simple as possible to send a signal to the board. Doesn't look like I'll stop pushing for a mic on my cabs anytime soon...
 
Last edited:
Welp, I just spent a few minutes investigating the XLR out on the PF800, and as far as I'm concerned, the only position that's usable is pre-EQ with the -40 db switch on. Leaving it at 0 db resulted in insane output, while cutting 40 db from it made it just a little bit quieter than a Countryman Type 85 I AB'd it with but is still a very usable amount of output. And engaging post-EQ at 0 db reduced the signal a bit but it still grossly overloaded, but engaging post-EQ at -40db cut output to almost nothing. So if you use the PF800's XLR out, pre-EQ at -40 db is the only way to roll. You don't get the preamp, but it's a solid DI in the vein of your usual Countryman/Radial solid state DI's with what sounds like pretty flat response.

EDIT: LOL! I see we came to about the same conclusion. Yeah, I hear you about the post-EQ not being that usable, but at least they give you something usable with the pre-EQ/-40 db position. Not the best amp DI I ever used, not the worst. And if they're going to skimp on anything, I'd rather they skimp on the DI than the sound into my cabs. DI's I got.
 
  • Like
Reactions: P-oddz
I must have had the cut clicked on the other night on mine cause we had no problems at our board, though it was not a recording situation at all just live PA. luckily I don't have to use a live DI much, and like Jimmy I have plenty better ones to use anyway.
 
OK. Well thanks again for the tips on pg 2 here of how to set my PF800 for more useful tone.....it worked.

Had the comp from 9:00 to noon, Mids 2-3, Select knob @ #1. Now we got rained out, so instead of the outdoor stage out on the huge grassy lawn, we got moved inside. This is a med sized café type place, bout 20 tables, wooden building, wood floors. But was nice we kept the volume a lot lower than when outside.
I got lazy and just kept the TB153 cab loaded in car from Fridays gig, also used the P5 again. But this time the PF800 head with these suggested settings had a real nice tone that cut thru nice even at a much lower volume.

Actually, I liked that we were much lower in volume cause this gave the PF800 a real nice, n gooey lowend when I engaged the Ultra-lo button. Since I was quieter I could hear more of the nuances as I moved the bass, mid, treble, comp knobs just slightly +/- of where they were set to start. Worked out very nicely.

We're back at same place next Sat. Will be outside this time and I will try the GB NX 212T cab and maybe a active bass this time. As I now know better how to set this amp, I should be able to get more useful tone with this next combo of cab/bass and hopefully my other cab/bass combinations I use. Thanks again for the suggestions, very helpful and I look forward to trying this amp out at my next few gigs this month now. Peace y'all, ernie.
 
Are you running the PF800 DI post? I always run my DI pre so the desk does not get too much color for the sound guy to fight with. I wonder how much hotter it is post compared to pre, of course that will depend on your settings. EQ for a cab and stage sound is not always what the sound guy wants or needs to make bass sound good in my experience. However, if you do your own sound, or have a regular sound guy that knows your settings, and/or get the time to shake it out first I am sure it works great.
Well, because of the hotness, I don't run de PF800 post.
I do however like to control my sound to the FOH.
What I do is, I cut my lows on the VT Bass, while boosting my mids, knowing that the standard FOH-guy will always dial up bass on a bassguitar, because...it's a bassguitar.
So normally, the lows at the FOH are about right with the sound I like!
And then I boost my lows on the PF800 as well.
Anyway, it works for me! :)
(sorry if this post is a bit OT)
 
I had a pf350 I used all the time for jamming with my older band and it crapped out on me. It never once left my house and I kept it in a pretty climate controlled environment. Ampegs are no longer American they are made in China and their durability proves it. It sounded really good and I loved that it was so light but it just stopped working for me. I forget now exactly what it did but I remember it made me really mad. I love ampeg I have a 70's b 25b that is amazing. I will never buy a new made in China ampeg ever again though. It could have just been mine but I warn everyone to be careful and read more about them.