So the fan in my non-pro SVT-II is giving up the ghost and getting noisy. I watched the replacement video on YouTube by Frequency Factory but he didn’t say where he bought the replacement and only mentions the AMPEG part number not the OEM part number so I can’t find the fan anywhere. I tried pausing his video but he’s not a pro so his camera angles, resolution, and light are all detrimental to retrieving the information visually off the fans in the video. Anyways where can I buy an equivalent fan to the original? Bruce of Fliptops is not familiar with the SVT-II and doesn’t know if any of the fans he offers are similar or not.
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Ampeg SVT-II NON PRO Fan Replacement?
- Thread starter waltdogg
- Start date
- Feb 12, 2006
- 60,952
- 5
- 220,600
- Disclosures
- Development Engineer-Mesa Boogie, Development Engineer-Genzler (pedals), Product Support-Genz Benz
You could also try contacting this shop, they bought out the Ampeg parts inventory back when SLM sold Ampeg: LS ELECTRONICS & SERVICES LLC - Home - NOW OFFERING LESSONS!
Thanks I’ll give them a go as whoever answered my ticket at Ampeg gave me no information on the fan. They just said buy any 120V fan from Mouser or Digikey. Man I really thought Yamaha taking over Ampeg would make them more friendly.
Have you pulled the fan out and checked the specs on it?
My powered mixer fan went out earlier this summer and I just did a search to match up the size, rated voltage and current. There are other specs to consider regarding rated speed, airflow and noise level. It’s also important to match the number of wires if yours has more than two wires since the fan is probably thermostatically controlled.
I ordered a pair of them for $15 that matched up close enough. Clipped the two wires on the new ones and added the old board connection with a couple of solder connections.
My powered mixer fan went out earlier this summer and I just did a search to match up the size, rated voltage and current. There are other specs to consider regarding rated speed, airflow and noise level. It’s also important to match the number of wires if yours has more than two wires since the fan is probably thermostatically controlled.
I ordered a pair of them for $15 that matched up close enough. Clipped the two wires on the new ones and added the old board connection with a couple of solder connections.
Doing that tonight.
My main concern is noise levels. That’s why I want to get a proper OEM or OEM equivalent replacement.
LS Electronics has already e-mailed me back and offered to look into it. I just needed someone to cross reference a parts list really and they’re doing that. As the internal Ampeg part number for the fan is known but we don’t know the OEM or the OEM part number.
My main concern is noise levels. That’s why I want to get a proper OEM or OEM equivalent replacement.
LS Electronics has already e-mailed me back and offered to look into it. I just needed someone to cross reference a parts list really and they’re doing that. As the internal Ampeg part number for the fan is known but we don’t know the OEM or the OEM part number.
- Feb 12, 2006
- 60,952
- 5
- 220,600
- Disclosures
- Development Engineer-Mesa Boogie, Development Engineer-Genzler (pedals), Product Support-Genz Benz
Note that most thermostatically controlled fans use 2 wires. The third wire can be used for a variety of purposes depending on the model of the fan.
If this is a 120V AC fan, it will almost certainly be 2 wire because there is generally no fan speed control or tach feedback provided on these fans.
If this is a 120V AC fan, it will almost certainly be 2 wire because there is generally no fan speed control or tach feedback provided on these fans.
@waltdogg
I've done this before myself. I replaced the fan in my Peavey T-Max (which you can see in my avatar) because the stock fan was distractingly loud. Fortunately the fan itself had a part number that let me look up the original specs, so I was able to find a 120V fan of the same size that pushed about as much air, but was substantially quieter.
The most important specs:
Input voltage (obviously 120V)
Size (check the depth of the fan as well, especially if it has to go in a tight space)
Airflow in CFM
It's a 120V fan, so you probably don't have to worry about how much current the replacement draws...and a fan that blows the same CFM will likely have similar power draw anyway.
CFM usually isn't printed on the fan itself, but the model number and manufacturer will be, and searching for those should get you to a datasheet. Unfortunately there's probably no way around opening up the amp and taking a look at the fan itself! (I recommend taking a picture of the label so you don't miss any numbers.) But you can do this without removing the fan, and put the amp back together so you can use it until the replacement arrives.
9 times out of 10, a 120V fan will have spade terminals that you can simply pull off/push onto connectors on the PCB. (Often with a great deal of force.)
When you install the new fan, make sure it's blowing air the same direction as the fan you took out!
I've done this before myself. I replaced the fan in my Peavey T-Max (which you can see in my avatar) because the stock fan was distractingly loud. Fortunately the fan itself had a part number that let me look up the original specs, so I was able to find a 120V fan of the same size that pushed about as much air, but was substantially quieter.
The most important specs:
Input voltage (obviously 120V)
Size (check the depth of the fan as well, especially if it has to go in a tight space)
Airflow in CFM
It's a 120V fan, so you probably don't have to worry about how much current the replacement draws...and a fan that blows the same CFM will likely have similar power draw anyway.
CFM usually isn't printed on the fan itself, but the model number and manufacturer will be, and searching for those should get you to a datasheet. Unfortunately there's probably no way around opening up the amp and taking a look at the fan itself! (I recommend taking a picture of the label so you don't miss any numbers.) But you can do this without removing the fan, and put the amp back together so you can use it until the replacement arrives.
9 times out of 10, a 120V fan will have spade terminals that you can simply pull off/push onto connectors on the PCB. (Often with a great deal of force.)
When you install the new fan, make sure it's blowing air the same direction as the fan you took out!
Ooof. You coulda saved yourself some effort there. I already know what to do, I’ve done this before on other amps. I just don’t wanna waste my time taking the amp apart then leaving it in pieces till the part shows up. This is the last time I take anyone’s advice on getting an obscure amp because this has turned into an ordeal as no one is familiar with the non-pro SVT-II. Pfft.
Last edited:
- Feb 12, 2006
- 60,952
- 5
- 220,600
- Disclosures
- Development Engineer-Mesa Boogie, Development Engineer-Genzler (pedals), Product Support-Genz Benz
@waltdogg - I believe I have the information (including in stock availability) that you need. PM me and I will get you hooked up.
I'm reluctant to continue this publicly due to some recent accusations that I have been nothing but condescending and unhelpful by a couple of members.
I am always happy to help where I can.
I'm reluctant to continue this publicly due to some recent accusations that I have been nothing but condescending and unhelpful by a couple of members.
I am always happy to help where I can.
I think you will find once you spend the time and effort to get this issue taken care of, you will find this to be one of the best amps you've ever owned.
There are actually a lot of people that own these and know them well.
I also have the schematics with the Ampeg numbers on them. If there is anything on them that I can see, I will share them.
Good luck with it.
Slightly off topic but it needs to be said: I have always found your comments to be on point, helpful to the OP and frequently educational. I understand that you have a job and it isn't answering questions on TB.
