I have an Ampeg SVT VR made in November of 2007 made in the USA, I was told that there were only 35 made in states before they shipped them to Vietnam, I was wondering if that were true. I was told that from a guitar shop where my amp was being repaired. The guy who told me that had Aden Bubeck look at it. Just wondering.
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Ampeg SVT VR Made in USA
- Thread starter GKG
- Start date
It's very possible. I know there aren't many. 35 seems a little low but not improbable. I'm pretty sure they're all built the same, though, as SLM had already lost their US transformer supplier due to them wanting out and pricing new transformers ridonkulously.
I bought a USA made VR at long @mcquade in Ottawa June 2006 . #DWTDS50051 . At this time I am looking for a main power board . The leads on the circuit board lifted near the driver tube sockets . I called loud with no available replacement board . Overall was a great amp with over 200 practices and gigs a year .
Yep, lifted traces are no big deal. Scrape off some solder mask and use some busbar if the component leads are too short. Only replace the board if it is charred and weakened.
If the traces are not damaged, they can be glued back down. You have to be very careful not to damage the traces.
One thing about glue, no matter what type, with enough heat it will release. The copper was originally glued down onto the substrate. Either the board got too hot or there was a manufacturing flaw.
Some people use super glue and claim that it works well. I've never tried it. I use either JBWeld (8265) or JBWeld Marine (8272). Carefully use acetone to flush the board area and under the lifted traces. Let it dry. Mix the two parts of the epoxy well, use a toothpick to apply it under the traces. Using too little can be a problem, there won't be enough glue to hold it. I don't push the traces down all the way against the board, I leave a thin bump. Clean up what oozes out the sides and let it sit. I use blue painters tape to hold the trace down. Not too uch pressure but you don't want it to lift as it dries. If it is a pad that has lifted, I push a round toothpick into the hole to hold it in place and break the wood way when the adhesive has cured. It can take a couple of days for it to cure but holds traces down well. These are high temp products and are resistant to solvents.
As Jon said, damaged traces can be bypassed with bus wire.
One thing about glue, no matter what type, with enough heat it will release. The copper was originally glued down onto the substrate. Either the board got too hot or there was a manufacturing flaw.
Some people use super glue and claim that it works well. I've never tried it. I use either JBWeld (8265) or JBWeld Marine (8272). Carefully use acetone to flush the board area and under the lifted traces. Let it dry. Mix the two parts of the epoxy well, use a toothpick to apply it under the traces. Using too little can be a problem, there won't be enough glue to hold it. I don't push the traces down all the way against the board, I leave a thin bump. Clean up what oozes out the sides and let it sit. I use blue painters tape to hold the trace down. Not too uch pressure but you don't want it to lift as it dries. If it is a pad that has lifted, I push a round toothpick into the hole to hold it in place and break the wood way when the adhesive has cured. It can take a couple of days for it to cure but holds traces down well. These are high temp products and are resistant to solvents.
As Jon said, damaged traces can be bypassed with bus wire.
