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Ampeg SVT610HLF VS deep bass

alvav

alvav

Nov 8, 2010
39
0
61
Naxos, Greece
#1
I have an Ampeg SVT610HLF driven by a SVT4 amp. Very happy except I really want deep sub bass and I'm not getting it. Was looking through Ampeg's website and saw a series called PN. Is this to be used in a setup like mine, kind of like adding a subwoofer to a home system? If so, can both cabs be driven by my amp? Would I need some sort of crossover system? Not looking for super volume; just deep deep bass to be added.
 
#2
The PN are meant to be used as standalone bass cabs or in conjunction with a second standalone bass cab and aren't designed to be crossed over. I don't think the PN series will fulfill your goals.
 
#3
My recommendation is to get a powered, direct radiating (not a horn!) 18" subwoofer from a well known brand like JBL, QSC, RCF, Cerwin-Vega!, etc.
Use the line out from the head to drive it. Keep the 610 full range and let the 18" work up to 70-100 (maximum) Hz.
No point in getting a smaller or lower quality sub. Deep, loud bass is expensive, if kept in moderate size.
 
#7
Yeah, sorry about not being clear enough. I mean to look at the powered PA subs from those or other quality brands. They trade a bit of the deepest lows for more SPL and robustness, compared to a home model. Please note: With a speaker processor or even a graphic eq, you can make any of these models go ruler flat below 30Hz. The internal processing and limiter should prevent over excursion. But do not take my Word for it - study the manual.

Examples:
http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/SRM1850
http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/KW181
http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/iQ18B
http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/PRX718XLF
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
 
#11
The SVT-410HLF goes deep (more so than the 610), but the type of active subs I suggested are still better at delivering very deep, very clean lows at high SPL, and with more safety margin for user errors. Trust me - I have the 410HLF (and some other cabs) and I also have high quality PA gear similar to the JBL PRX. I love my Ampegs, but for brute force and impact, the big, dedicated type of subs are hard to beat. Please note: the fEARful style of cabs with Kappalite 3015LF are also left in the dust when you bring 18" pro level subs into the race.
 
#12
FWIW: I just did a show last night with my SVT-CL into my 410HLF. The PA was an Allen & Heath board, QSC amps and JBL SRX series tops and subs. I was in the mains via a passive direct box. Love the sound of my rig at the volume level it takes to carry the gig without FOH. Not as excited about the sound of my amp at just stage volume and really not excited about the sound of my bass in the mains. Second set I got my bass pulled out of the mains and cranked the SVT. Yee haw! I guess what I'm trying to say is that IMO a bass amp into a bass cab can be heavenly and I don't care for bass guitar through PA gear. I realize of course there are mic's and Reddis, etc.
 
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#13
Thanks for the replies. PA grade powered 18 inch subs seems the way to go for what I'm looking for. Any companies to avoid? I noticed that the JBL's frequency response ratings are not much lower than my cab. The Behringer's have better numbers (and good user ratings), and are reasonable priced Anyone have experience with them? Most of the playing is in my house basement. Is an 18 inch overkill?
 
#15
I think it I would do like this, were I using the rig on stage:
The 610 run full range from the head. I would run a full range line out from the head into the sub, and use its internal crossover to tweak the signal.

Why? The 610 has an acoustic roll off from somewhere in the 50s, so we do want to use its contribution as much as we can. If we filter it higher, we transfer work load from its very big cone area (450-ish square inches) to the sub's 240-ish).
The sub's signal processing is probably much better and more flexible than in the Ampeg, too, so feeding it a full range signal is where I would at least start. It is easy enough to play around with the filter settings to see where it works best.
 
Last edited:
#16
AlexanderB said:
I think it I would do like this, were I using the rig on stage:
The 610 run full range from the head. I would run a full range line out from the head into the sub, and use its internal crossover to tweak the signal.

Why? The 610 has an acoustic roll off from somewhere in the 50s, so we do want to use its contribution as much as we can. If we filter it higher, we transfer work load from its very big cone area (450-ish square inches) to the sub's 240-ish).
The sub's signal processing is probably much better and more flexible than in the Ampeg, too, so feeding it a full range signal is where I would at least start. It is easy enough to play around with the filter settings to see where it works best.
Click to expand...

If the OP has a Deep Pocketbook, the Powered Sub ($750-$1000-ish + depending on model) would be a great idea. However, if its like mine and virtually non-existant, a new non-powered can be had for $300-$500. Just MHO.
 

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