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Ampeg vintage SVT cab speakers

He was big with KISS too,right?

Not sure, definitely could be, Kramer has certainly worked with some
major players.

In that video, Johnny is running through a pair of daisy chained Bradshaw Marshalls,
slaved to another 500 watt power amp, yielding about 1300 watts RMS.
The 2X15 cab was custom built for Kramer, no clue what speakers he has running in it.
JBL's or EV's most likely.
 
I've recently loaded a 8x10 with the Jensen Mod 10 Speakers .... IMHO the sound really good .... and their priced right ... if you have a multi meter ... plug a speaker cord in the cabinet and measure the overall resistance of the cabinet ...a 8 ohn cabinet will read in the range of 5.7 - 6.9= 8 ohms ..... make sure the speakers are in phase ... take a 9 volt battery and hook it up the cabinet briefly and see if all the speakers move in unison .. I'd go with the 32 ohm and wire all the speakers in parallel as it will yield 8 ohms ... one of the good features of the V4-B is it has 3 ohm setting's 2-4-8 , ... good score !!!!!

I hooked a multimeter up to cab, it is reading "008" on the 200 setting and around "7.2" on the 2000 setting. I've never really used this mutimeter for resistance before, but I assume that confirms 8 ohms for the cab.

Still have to try the 9-volt thingy.

Everything sounds nice on the upper 3 strings, but when I play lower notes on the E string or anything on the B I get something that has a vibrating paper quality sound to it. This is with the output set to 8 ohms.

Also, it there a method to distinguish an instrument cable from a speaker cable?, the cable that came with this for connecting the head to the cab looks strikingly similar to an instrument cable.
 
ms.

Also, it there a method to distinguish an instrument cable from a speaker cable?, the cable that came with this for connecting the head to the cab looks strikingly similar to an instrument cable.

Instrument cables have braided wire around the outside of a single shielded wire

Speaker cables have two shielded wires and no braided wire.
 
From what you described ... it sounds like the speaker has see better days ...either recone them or replace with new ...... as to the cable issue, unscrew the plug, speaker wire will have 2 insulated conductors, and instrument cabling will have one insulated conductor and braided or many single stranded wires wrapped around the single insulated wire, you just can't tell from the outer cover/coating, some will have what is is embosed into the covering but most don't ... multi -meter setting sound about right for a 8 ohm cab ... it always never exactly at 8 ohm's
 
well hopefully no damage was done. I turned the volume up no higher than 50% and that was only for a few minutes, my furnace was about to fall apart from vibrations, my house is not very vibration proof! didn't notice any burnt electrical smells.

anyway, i guess I'm just gonna purchase 4 new speakers, and save the originals in case i decide to re-cone them in the future.

however, I'm a complete n00b with this, and was wondering, what would be the difference if i bought 50w, 100w, or 150w speakers for this 100w head? is a particular wattage better than another for any reason for this application?
 
anyway, i guess I'm just gonna purchase 4 new speakers, and save the originals in case i decide to re-cone them in the future.

however, I'm a complete n00b with this, and was wondering, what would be the difference if i bought 50w, 100w, or 150w speakers for this 100w head? is a particular wattage better than another for any reason for this application?
other than the obvious tonal differences in speakers, the higher wattage handling speakers will make your cab work with higher power heads, should you choose to do so in the future.

i'd be curious to know what would be good to use in this situation. a couple of people on here really like the jensen mod 50's in their svt 810's, but this is a 410, and wouldn't have to be limited by using only 32 ohm speakers (which are getting harder to find). you could probably do better than the mods if you could use 8 ohm speakers.
 
Weber is making reproduction CTS 10's in both ceramic and AlNiCo

Just tell him you need 4 to handle your amp and see what he says.

If you might use the cab later for other more powerful amp heads,
I'd talk to them about which speakers might handle up to 300 watts RMS.

I had Redco Audio make me up a real nice 8' fat 12 gauge speaker cable
with the oversize NYS 225LL silver 1/4 TS jacks. Great stuff and reasonable.
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Cable Length: 8 ft
Cable Type: Red 12/2 Redco 2c. 12AWG Speaker
Connector 1: NYS 225LL Male TS-Xtra Large Opening(1)
Connector 2: NYS 225LL Male TS-Xtra Large Opening(1)

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]


Product Cost US$16.60

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Well it runs about $85.00 plus shipping both ways for re-coning, so that's still an option.

I'd personally be looking for 4 EVM10L's but they are heavy.

The low efficiency of the original CTS speakers will squash the potential volume
of the V4B, so if you want to boost the power, it would be better to go with speakers
in the 100+ dB SPL ratings.
 
sorry, but i used to run a v4b into an 810 with cts alnicos, and it got screaming loud for a 100w rig. i always thought of them as very high efficiency, if efficiency is defined by being able to get really loud with a 100w amp ;)
 
My 2X12 cab with high efficiency EVM12L and a Weber Blue Dog drivers is a good 30% louder than my SVT cab.

If my memory serves me correctly the CTS AlNiCo's are closer to
96-98db where a speaker rated 100-103 db is going to make the same amp considerably louder.
 
Would there be any added benefit to getting speakers with a different impedance and bringing this cab back to 4 ohms?

I'm not really looking to spend too much money right now and those MOD 50s have a very reasonable price.

Some people on this board have had a good experience with mixing these:

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with the stock current production ampeg speakers:

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Does anyone else any input on mixing these 2 speakers?
 
From the threads on here, the people who mixed them were mostly people looking to get the modern 810E to sound more like the vintage cabs. If you went all MOD 10's it would probably be fine. Personally, I'd stick with 8 ohms because it keeps your options wider for adding a second cab and also it doesn't make a difference to the V4, you get the same 100 watts out of 8 ohms as 4 ohms.
 
hionestly, sensitivity ratings are useless the way the vast majority of companies quote them.

In some cases maybe, as are amp power ratings using peak rather than true RMS.

With reasonably accurate efficiency ratings or sensitivity ratings (SPL)
I've witnessed the results first hand while testing 4 different drivers in
my '64 R12R This amp was bench tested to produce 21 watts RMS and 28 watts peak.

The original '64 15 watt CTS driver gave the amp plenty of mojo, but with an efficiency of around 95dB, the speaker made the amp sound like a very cool 10 watt amp.

Not knowing the actual output of the amp when I puchased it,
I sadly fried the voice coil of the original 15 watt driver having a bit too much fun running the amp wide open.

My amp tech had an Emi C-Rex at the shop so we tried it. 102 db
Wow! My seemingly underpowered little Ampeg could suddenly
keep up with a full live band to the point where the FOH guy needed
to face the amp rearward in order to not over project the stage volume. The volume of the amp nearly doubled.

I also tried a Weber Blue Dog 75 AlNiCo rated about 98 db and settled
on a Fane Axiom 75 Ceramic rated about 100 db.

The test results proved to be right in line with each speaker efficiency
rating, either a bit softer or louder.

If I connect my Bad Cat Hot Cat 100R to my 2X12, it's paint peeling punishment, where the same amp through my SVT cab is a pleasure to play through, taming the beast just enough without losing the chime and jangle or sounding too compressed.

So as funny as it may sound, the vintage SVT cab is closer to the small club cab while my 2X12 is the outdoor stadium rig.