Annoying E-String problem

[TexasEdition]

I recently bought a gently used SR300 bass from GC. It's in pretty good nic all around, but I get this annoying intonation from the E string where it will go sharp for about a second or two, and then settle back into tune. This is most prevalent on the open string and gets less prevalent up the fingerboard.

I have not messed with the bridge intonation, but it's equally slightly flat across all the strings at the 12th fret.

I replaced the strings with a brand new set of Highbeams and the issue is still there. In fact, it's a bit stronger than it was with the old flat strings. It probably bothers me more than anyone else, but sometimes is sounds like I am bending an open E string....

Not sure what I can do to correct this or am I just going to have to accept this as a quirk of the instrument?

 

[JeroB666]

Sounds like you need to set-up your bass and fix the intonation.

ALL BASIC SETUP QUESTIONS ANSWERED HERE

 

[Paulabass]

Try lowering your pickups a bit. The magnetic pull can cause wolf tones (out of tune sounding notes from a string that is mechanically in tune.)

 

[Tim Nelson]

@TexasEdition Did you figure this one out? I have the same problem on nearly all my open strings on a used Fender Jazz Bass I bought and it's driving me crazy. I have other set up work to do that may fix it, but regardless of setup issues, I wouldn't expect an open string to go sharp and flat by at least a semi-tone as it vibrates. Sometimes I just wonder if it's my mood, so I go to bed and hope the next day it won't bother me...but it does.

 

[jpaulo]

Same problem here with my Squier Precision.
I have to tune it with my Zoom B1Four pedal - if I try it with the supposedly more sensitive StroboStomp, I get a lot of fluctuation on the open E, annoying...
Changing strings or lowering the pup did not help - l even changed the nut, w/o success, but the logic still points to that.
Btw, I also changed the tuner back and forth to a drop-d hipshot, no luck.

 

[L-1329]

The harder you pluck/pick a string, it will go slightly sharp. Once the energy drops back off it will be back in tune. You can see this on a tuner, and the thicker the string the more noticeable the effect. It’s due to the momentum of the vibrating string, and the force you put into it while playing. Plug into a tuner, and play the open E very lightly, and tune the string. Then once in tune with very light plucking, play a note much harder and see that the tuner will show sharp at first, but quickly drop back into tune as the string dies down a bit.

 

[Bboopbennie]

L-1329 explained it very well. I might add check the nut is not loose and has back slope to the headstock. If you
play hard, try putting foam under the strings that have trouble ( at bridge ). This will damp them some to reduce the momentum.

 

[Tim Nelson]

@Bboopbennie is putting foam under the string at the bridge a similar concept to why I’ve seen that little dampening wrap people put on the strings near the nut? To reduce the momentum and keep them from going sharp a bit before resting back in tune?

 

[jpaulo]

Thanks for the insights.
Checked pup height, set it to 2.7mm - fluctuations still on the open e, only. Fretted F ok.
Lightly touched the string for tuning, did not help.
Tuner poles have been replaced, not the issue.
String replaced, not the issue.

Then, on a closer inspection: e string is touching the fretboard behind the nut, but the nut height is ok on the 1st fret x 2nd fret test. Other strings have travel time behind the nut.
Added some paper to increase the height, it increased too much and the improvement was not enough: maybe some dampening effect from the paper, now?

I’m now thinking of grinding the fretboard behind the nut to allow for free travel space for the string in that area...

Could it be anything else, or just a fact of bass life?

Tks

Edit: @Bboopbennie , is the backslope you mention what is happening in the photo? Tks

 

[Bboopbennie]

Joao Paulo- Yes that is back slope, so the contact point is in one place on the nut. I would check neck bow next.
Press your fingers down on the sting ( e ) at the first and 15th fret. Now look about center ( neck ) for about .015
to .025 clearance above the fret. That seems to be about right. now the bridge. I don't do it it like the so called pro's, I adjust the bridge until no buzz up and down the neck for each string. That's after you get the nut filed in correctly. All necks are a little different, no one size fits all! I see Flats on that bass, which are more for giving than rounds!! Yes some times you just changes strings/ brands and its fixed.*****For Tim, the wrap does a little damping and I use them. L -1329 said it better, but we are trying to kill the over tones with foam under the strings, or more subtle--- - the wrap at the nut. Drummers did this with tape and cloth on the heads. Some people just play with a lot of overtones / pick / so the damping. Carol Kaye was a great player, used a pick and ALL WAYS had foam at the bridge !

 

[Tim Nelson]

@Bboopbennie okay that helps a lot. I’ll try some of those things out this weekend and experiment with the wraps and foam.

 

[jpaulo]

Joao Paulo- Yes that is back slope, so the contact point is in one place on the nut. I would check neck bow next.
Press your fingers down on the sting ( e ) at the first and 15th fret. Now look about center ( neck ) for about .015
to .025 clearance above the fret. That seems to be about right. now the bridge. I don't do it it like the so called pro's, I adjust the bridge until no buzz up and down the neck for each string. That's after you get the nut filed in correctly. All necks are a little different, no one size fits all! I see Flats on that bass, which are more for giving than rounds!! Yes some times you just changes strings/ brands and its fixed.*****For Tim, the wrap does a little damping and I use them. L -1329 said it better, but we are trying to kill the over tones with foam under the strings, or more subtle--- - the wrap at the nut. Drummers did this with tape and cloth on the heads. Some people just play with a lot of overtones / pick / so the damping. Carol Kaye was a great player, used a pick and ALL WAYS had foam at the bridge !

Thanks for the insights. Neck bow is ok. Bridge ok, no buzz.
I played with adjusting the string in the post so that it made the string away from the fretboard behind the neck. Problem is still there, and funny: it does not happen with the harmonic 12th or fretted notes (there must be a physical explanation for that - somewhere in between the string entering the nut and being wrapped in the post.
I guess I'm over engineering this - and my peterson tuner, oversensitive, does not help!

 

[Bboopbennie]

When you pluck a string you get a tone/ overtones / beat frequency tones and harmonics. The harder the momentum the more pronounced it becomes. We had a drummer and his bass drum was driving me crazy,
until he pulled the front head and damped it with the classic pillow. Same thing with strings, just have to deal with it. I use GHS pressure -wound strings .045 -.105 on the Jazz and Balance nickels on the P bass. They
have good fundamentals, and control the Zing and Overtones for me. Just know some necks are just plane
difficult to get right. So .......you compromise !!! Good luck

 

[nivagues]

Thanks for the insights. Neck bow is ok. Bridge ok, no buzz.
I played with adjusting the string in the post so that it made the string away from the fretboard behind the neck. Problem is still there, and funny: it does not happen with the harmonic 12th or fretted notes (there must be a physical explanation for that - somewhere in between the string entering the nut and being wrapped in the post.
I guess I'm over engineering this - and my peterson tuner, oversensitive, does not help!

I had the same problem on one of my Basses for years. Tried everything before concentrating on the 4 screws on the rear of the headstock that hold the E tuner in place. They were snug but was able to tighten them just a tad more. Seems to have fixed the problem for me. If anyone tries this be careful so that the screw driver doesn't slip and gouge the finish. Prior to doing this I'd also put on a lighter gauge set of Rounds which, in themselves, seemed to help things a little.

 

[jpaulo]

I further tightened the screws and took the chance to also check the post and bushings, I adjusted it so that there is no slack, now.
It got more stable, but fluctuation is still there when measured with the peterson...
Tks