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Anyone use Peroba before?

White Peroba - Peroba Campos

I've just scored a slab off of ebay and this stuff is natures own stabilized wood! Rough cut it looks like green furry poplar but sand it to smooth and oil it and it brings it to an incredible deep red/brown ribbon figure like mahogany only half scale and twice as deep! :bassist:

So is this stuff hard to glue? Resawing on the tablesaw went easily enough - it cut dry without scorching so it's seasoned and not sappy. And it buffs up well so I don't have any other reservations other than it's ability to hold it's own in a glue joint.
 
Also note that there's a wood of an entirely different family that's called "Invalid Link Removed," that is not "peroba de campos." This one has different characteristics. Interestingly, one differentiator that is not as subjective as the color description is the taste description.
 
According to Invalid Link Removed, one species of the second wood mentioned above is sometimes is also called "peroba de campo." If you have this, be careful:
The freshly cut wood and sap of Aspidosperma species causes irritation of the eyes, nose, and throat, with general malaise. The sawdust, on contact with abraded skin, produces local burning and a vesicular eruption with general symptoms of muscular weakness and cramps, sweating, dryness of the mouth, and faintness. Once the wood is thoroughly dry it loses its toxicity unless polishes or dyes in organic solvents are used on it (Freise 1932, 1937).
 
The freshly cut wood and sap of Aspidosperma species causes irritation of the eyes, nose, and throat, with general malaise. The sawdust, on contact with abraded skin, produces local burning and a vesicular eruption with general symptoms of muscular weakness and cramps, sweating, dryness of the mouth, and faintness. Once the wood is thoroughly dry it loses its toxicity unless polishes or dyes in organic solvents are used on it (Freise 1932, 1937).


Well is'nt that just some nice friendly stuff :rolleyes:
 
I don't think that's this stuff. It's definitely not the "peroba rosa". This stuff is grey/green while the rosa is pink. Besides, these specimens have been drying for 8+ years so it's out of the "green" phase for sure.

I've resawn 3 fretboards and done some finish testing and haven't noticed so much as even some scent from this wood. The dust seems pretty heavy and doesn't linger. It's so hard that chisels leave a polished cut. It's gonna take a week to radius! :rolleyes:

My sources said that it's used mainly in fine furniture, decking (I assume an industrial type thing), and in machinery as sliding surfaces or heavy duty guides.
 
Sounds good! It seems like it is the peroba de campo from the first link - yellow/green, to reddish. And interlocked grain producing a narrow stripe figure sound similar to what you've got.

So have you got a picture of what one of these fretboards look like? It sounds real interesting.
 
pilotjones said:
And while we're at it, what are your projects that these boards are going into?


:eyebrow:

You callin' me out boy...?

:eyebrow:


I've been up to a couple of things in the shop. I've been working on a new dual action trussrod design since I can't bring myself to use someone elses design. Then I've got some new necks coming out of the new jig fixture incorporating the new trussrod. These necks will have dual teak skunk stripes. One neck will be use on the body on the right with a peroba board. I'm saving the ebony board in the pic for my own project in the next post...
 
This is my big project for the forseeable future. It's my 4 string Fairlane design, chambered and carved, with a bookmatched California claro burl walnut top and a bookmatched curly walnut with an overlaying "cathedral" grain back and curly maple accent. The "binding" layer is ash/makore/maple/makore/ash and goes through the body. This is the latest shape mutation for this design - this one doesn't have a neck "tongue" and the neck is held with 5 bolts. Plans are for 2 Ken Armstrong MM humbuckers combined with a U-retro. The body weighs 4 lbs. 7 oz. now so I'm thinking it will wind up in the 8 lb region when complete.
 
Nice!

I like the body shape.

That fretboard wood looks fantastic oiled. It does look like half scale mahogany.

The 5-layer accent lam looks cool. Wickersham wannnabe indeed! Nice.

I like the bevel you're putting on that 2nd body. Is that done with a cabinet panel bit? It's fairly wide, and that works nicely with the large radii of the body outline.
 
Groovecenter said:
Very nice looking work Hambone! Any more information on the differences between your new truss rod system and the older design or are you waiting until it's complete. What made you want to design a new one, simply being able to make your own or improvement (with you I assume improvement) and in what aspects?

The "other" one is under wraps but still being developed.

This new one was designed as it is for several reasons but they can be summed up with by saying that I wanted a single rod, double action rod that I could manufacture here in my shop. But I also wanted a stiffer assembly and to add an improvement or two that I thought would help. Mines got an aluminum channel and the best feature - a solid copper threaded slug that acts as a high mass anchor on the heel end. It's an experiment in creating a tension system within the neck similar to the nut/string/bridge system outside the neck. Ok, ok, it's voodoo and wishful thinking but it makes for a solid TR and it's all mine.