1. Please take 30 seconds to register your free account to remove most ads, post topics, make friends, earn reward points at our store, and more!  
    TalkBass.com has been uniting the low end since 1998.  Join us! :)

Anyone use Peroba before?

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by Hambone, Oct 27, 2004.

  1. White Peroba - Peroba Campos

    I've just scored a slab off of ebay and this stuff is natures own stabilized wood! Rough cut it looks like green furry poplar but sand it to smooth and oil it and it brings it to an incredible deep red/brown ribbon figure like mahogany only half scale and twice as deep! :bassist:

    So is this stuff hard to glue? Resawing on the tablesaw went easily enough - it cut dry without scorching so it's seasoned and not sappy. And it buffs up well so I don't have any other reservations other than it's ability to hold it's own in a glue joint.
  2. tjclem

    tjclem Supporting Member Commercial User

    Jun 6, 2004
    Central Florida
    Owner and builder Clementbass
    it is new to me but a wipe down with acetone before glueing?...........t Need photos :hyper:
  3. pilotjones

    pilotjones Supporting Member

    Nov 8, 2001
    Here you are.

    Peroba De Campos

  4. pilotjones

    pilotjones Supporting Member

    Nov 8, 2001
    Also note that there's a wood of an entirely different family that's called "peroba rosa," that is not "peroba de campos." This one has different characteristics. Interestingly, one differentiator that is not as subjective as the color description is the taste description.
  5. pilotjones

    pilotjones Supporting Member

    Nov 8, 2001
  6. pilotjones

    pilotjones Supporting Member

    Nov 8, 2001
    According to this source, one species of the second wood mentioned above is sometimes is also called "peroba de campo." If you have this, be careful:
  7. Skorzen


    Mar 15, 2002
    Springfield MA

    Well is'nt that just some nice friendly stuff :rolleyes:
  8. I don't think that's this stuff. It's definitely not the "peroba rosa". This stuff is grey/green while the rosa is pink. Besides, these specimens have been drying for 8+ years so it's out of the "green" phase for sure.

    I've resawn 3 fretboards and done some finish testing and haven't noticed so much as even some scent from this wood. The dust seems pretty heavy and doesn't linger. It's so hard that chisels leave a polished cut. It's gonna take a week to radius! :rolleyes:

    My sources said that it's used mainly in fine furniture, decking (I assume an industrial type thing), and in machinery as sliding surfaces or heavy duty guides.
  9. pilotjones

    pilotjones Supporting Member

    Nov 8, 2001
    Sounds good! It seems like it is the peroba de campo from the first link - yellow/green, to reddish. And interlocked grain producing a narrow stripe figure sound similar to what you've got.

    So have you got a picture of what one of these fretboards look like? It sounds real interesting.
  10. pilotjones

    pilotjones Supporting Member

    Nov 8, 2001
    And while we're at it, what are your projects that these boards are going into?
  11. Here's a look. The left side is rough cut with a Diablo thin kerf blade, the right is sanded through 600 grit, polished with steel wool and oiled with Watco Teak Oil.

    The other pic is how the overall blank looks

  12. :eyebrow:

    You callin' me out boy...?


    I've been up to a couple of things in the shop. I've been working on a new dual action trussrod design since I can't bring myself to use someone elses design. Then I've got some new necks coming out of the new jig fixture incorporating the new trussrod. These necks will have dual teak skunk stripes. One neck will be use on the body on the right with a peroba board. I'm saving the ebony board in the pic for my own project in the next post...
  13. This is my big project for the forseeable future. It's my 4 string Fairlane design, chambered and carved, with a bookmatched California claro burl walnut top and a bookmatched curly walnut with an overlaying "cathedral" grain back and curly maple accent. The "binding" layer is ash/makore/maple/makore/ash and goes through the body. This is the latest shape mutation for this design - this one doesn't have a neck "tongue" and the neck is held with 5 bolts. Plans are for 2 Ken Armstrong MM humbuckers combined with a U-retro. The body weighs 4 lbs. 7 oz. now so I'm thinking it will wind up in the 8 lb region when complete.
  14. pilotjones

    pilotjones Supporting Member

    Nov 8, 2001

    I like the body shape.

    That fretboard wood looks fantastic oiled. It does look like half scale mahogany.

    The 5-layer accent lam looks cool. Wickersham wannnabe indeed! Nice.

    I like the bevel you're putting on that 2nd body. Is that done with a cabinet panel bit? It's fairly wide, and that works nicely with the large radii of the body outline.
  15. Nope, I do this on my table saw.
  16. Very nice looking work Hambone! Any more information on the differences between your new truss rod system and the older design or are you waiting until it's complete. What made you want to design a new one, simply being able to make your own or improvement (with you I assume improvement) and in what aspects?
  17. The "other" one is under wraps but still being developed.

    This new one was designed as it is for several reasons but they can be summed up with by saying that I wanted a single rod, double action rod that I could manufacture here in my shop. But I also wanted a stiffer assembly and to add an improvement or two that I thought would help. Mines got an aluminum channel and the best feature - a solid copper threaded slug that acts as a high mass anchor on the heel end. It's an experiment in creating a tension system within the neck similar to the nut/string/bridge system outside the neck. Ok, ok, it's voodoo and wishful thinking but it makes for a solid TR and it's all mine.
  18. hehe, a little bit of voodoo never hurt in instrument making... thanks for the reply hambone.
  19. pilotjones

    pilotjones Supporting Member

    Nov 8, 2001
    This bevel was done with a table saw??? :confused:
  20. Yep, but you gotta hold that sucker just right! :D

    BTW, I considered the panel bit option but having a 2½"dia., 2 lb. chunk of steel spinning at 15,000 rpm with twin carbide blades out there to chew up things is real dangerous!

    Are you nuts!! ;)