Are Sterling Stingrays worth buying??

[LowEndLobster]

Just FYI guys, the preamp in the SUB/Ray4 is the same as the Ray24 preamp and neck (Ray24 just has a tint). Exactly the same. The Ceramic pickup in the Ray24 is much better, and has the four wires so it can be wired in parallel (true stingray mode). Fretwork wise, I've gone through about 8-9 SUBs for various projects and only one had some minor poke (9 dollar Amazon fret file took care of that with no issue). They gimp the Ray4/SUB with a poopy pickup that is way too hot. That's what's causing the distortion issue for a lot of people. I'm working on a BIG SUB modding guide for December checking out pickup and 3 band preamp offerings from Bartolini, EMG, Seymour Duncan, Nordstrand, and Aguilar - bought 6x SUBs ;P (plus a John East Preamp for my Ray24 w/ stock pickup)... and a special surprise that no one will see coming. Waiting on some electronics still, but I've already built and done a video on the SD (will do another one to go with the rest of the SUBs for the series), just built the Nordstrand one, and have one with just an Aguilar pickup on the stock preamp. Aguilar with the stock preamp sounds very good, bit improvement over stock. I'm not saying the Ray24 is a bad deal, it's up to each of you to decide for yourself whether the different body material/shape, tinted neck (same neck on both SUB and 24), and upgraded bridge + pickup is worth the extra 200 bucks to you.

IMO if you plan to tinker/mod, the SUB is a value that can't be beat for Ray lovers. If you want an already upgraded SUB and you don't really plan on modding, Ray24 is where it's at.... Or the 34, as those can be had for $599 new on sale from MF (comes and goes).

 

[P Cheen]

That's good to hear (regarding the pickups). However, the Ray24 does come stock with Alnico magnets

It looks like it’s ceramic.

It also uses the same wire colors as Nordstrand, so that’s a convenient little fact.

 

[Kipp Harrington]

It looks like it’s ceramic.

View attachment 4061875

It also uses the same wire colors as Nordstrand, so that’s a convenient little fact.

You know more than me when it comes to pickups...I was just going off the info from the description on the GC websire... but then again, I guess I should consider the source! Maybe the "body/casing" of the pup is ceramic and just the poles are alnico magnets?

 

[Kipp Harrington]

Truth be told, I actually really like the stock ceramic pickup on the Ray24. It’s an absolute upgrade over the Ray4 (SUB) ceramic pickup. The only reason I got the Nordy was to try alnico and because it was on sale.

A little tidbit of information though, for some odd reason the Ray24 pickup is wired in series. Kinda like a traditional US Sterling with a ceramic pickup and wired in series. When I installed the Nordy I wired it in parallel. No issues with either, I just think it’s weird that it’s supposed to be an import Stingray Classic.

Is it possible to wire a single pickup in parallel? I thought there had to be at lesst 2 pups involved to wire parallel. Maybe a sigle pickup can be wired in parallel if it's a humbucker, not a single coil? I am a pickup "greenhorn", obviodly!

 

[TrustRod]

Hi Kipp, if you have two things you get a series/parallel choice. Two coils in one pickup you have a choice. Two pickups in one bass, another choice. Two humbuckers in one bass, 3 choices total.

 

[P Cheen]

Is it possible to wire a single pickup in parallel? I thought there had to be at lesst 2 pups involved to wire parallel. Maybe a sigle pickup can be wired in parallel if it's a humbucker, not a single coil? I am a pickup "greenhorn", obviodly!

There’s one more thing the GC spec sheet got wrong- the fingerboard radius is 12” (I think) but it’s definitely not 7.25”. I have a Road Worn P bass and their fingerboard curvatures are definitely not the same.

And yes, you can wire the pickup in series or parallel because there are 2 coils inside the casing.
To wire it in parallel, red + black = hot and white + green + bare = ground.

 

[bigdaddybass12]

Just FYI guys, the preamp in the SUB/Ray4 is the same as the Ray24 preamp and neck (Ray24 just has a tint). Exactly the same. The Ceramic pickup in the Ray24 is much better, and has the four wires so it can be wired in parallel (true stingray mode). Fretwork wise, I've gone through about 8-9 SUBs for various projects and only one had some minor poke (9 dollar Amazon fret file took care of that with no issue). They gimp the Ray4/SUB with a poopy pickup that is way too hot. That's what's causing the distortion issue for a lot of people. I'm working on a BIG SUB modding guide for December checking out pickup and 3 band preamp offerings from Bartolini, EMG, Seymour Duncan, Nordstrand, and Aguilar - bought 6x SUBs ;P (plus a John East Preamp for my Ray24 w/ stock pickup)... and a special surprise that no one will see coming. Waiting on some electronics still, but I've already built and done a video on the SD (will do another one to go with the rest of the SUBs for the series), just built the Nordstrand one, and have one with just an Aguilar pickup on the stock preamp. Aguilar with the stock preamp sounds very good, bit improvement over stock. I'm not saying the Ray24 is a bad deal, it's up to each of you to decide for yourself whether the different body material/shape, tinted neck (same neck on both SUB and 24), and upgraded bridge + pickup is worth the extra 200 bucks to you.

IMO if you plan to tinker/mod, the SUB is a value that can't be beat for Ray lovers. If you want an already upgraded SUB and you don't really plan on modding, Ray24 is where it's at.... Or the 34, as those can be had for $599 new on sale from MF (comes and goes).

And there you go! The Ray4 expert has spoken!

 

[selowitch]

SBMM StingRays are an excellent value.

 

[Marko 1]

I really like the HH version.

 

[lowendblues]

I have 2, an H and an HH. If your good at doing minor setups, you cant beat them.

 

[N0sferatu]

Sterling Rays are legit. I played one of the newer roasted-neck versions at GC a few months back and I was floored at how good it sounded and how well constructed it was. Not a rough fret edge or buzz to be had. It was perfectly set up with low action too, which everyone knows is a rarity at GC.

I also previously owned one of the long-discontinued and short-lived Sterling SB14 basses. Same deal -- great construction and tone, lots of versatility with the 3-band EQ and S/P/SC switch. I loved that bass but I found a 5'er that I wanted even more so it had to go. The SBMM instruments are a great value and I don't think you could go wrong with any of them.

 

[Daddy-R]

I'm looking at a SUB Ray 4 string, Just wonder if the "G" has dead spots along the 3d -6th frets.

 

[nonohmic]

I played one of these yesterday at GC. StingRay Short Scale

It was incredible. Roasted maple neck, beautiful fretwork. To the point I was wondering what the hell can an extra $1500 get you in the EBMM line. I desperately want to like them, but no matter how hard I try 30" is just too cramped.

 

[GIBrat51]

Hi all

Are Sterling Stingray sub4 basses worth buying?? I have recently became interested in stingrays as my friend has one (a Musicman) and he let me play on it, and....I loved it. Im just wondering if Sterling sub4s are worth it, or if im better off saving up more to buy a Musicman?? From stuff i've watched, read and heard, ive heard there pretty good for for the price.

Daniel

I have one; a lefty "Chopper Blue" SubRay4. Bought it in my local GC, for about half off; it has a really nasty ding in the body, up by the top of the control plate. But, other than that? A really surprisingly nice bass. Neck is very nice; frets are really nice; and, with a set of EB Slinky Cobalt Flats on it? Sounds really nice, too.
Lots of people buy them to modify them; I tend to leave things alone if they don't actually need fixing. But, to each his own...
As for saving up to buy a MusicMan? I have one of those, too; a '20 4HH Stingray Special. Yes, it's a nicer, better made bass; it also cost a helluva lot more, too. There are a fair number of pros that are quite happy to gig with a Stirling Stingray; even the "bottom of the line" Sub4. You probably should get your hands on as many of them as you can - and pick the best one. Inexpensive basses are inexpensive for a reason. It's usually the fact that QC and human hands cost money, and the less QC and the fewer hands the bass goes through? The less it costs... But, there are really nice Stirling SubRays out there. I know; I got one...