B string breaks (for a second time) HELP!

[kantor1003]

I'm at a loss here. Recently got my jazz bass set up. I broke the B string today (130 roundwood, earnieball, see picture, 3-4 weeks old). I play kind of heavy with a pick, but not that heavy??. To have the intonation right, I see that it is now set quite far towards the bridge, so that there seems to be quite some tension there on the string. Anyway, thought that if I have to change that string every 3-4 weeks, that's okay.. and then I installed a new string. As I tuned it up, it seems like some part of the string gave - perhaps I hadn't pulled the string far enough into the bridge before tuning up?? - and when I tried playing, it sounded, but it sounded like poop. I took two pictures at the end of the string where some damage might have happened. Has it broken too? Anyway, what should I do? I can't even find, it seems, anywhere where I can buy a single 130 roundwood string either, and I'm poor enough so that I can't keep throwing money on strings, setup etc. only to have it slapped back into my face. Should I go back to the workshop where I got the setup, perhaps, and tell them about this? If the bridge get adjusted again, to relieve some tension, the intonation will be off, and I can't have that because the songs require that I play high up, also, on that string. Someone please help, I have gigs coming up soon.
(My 'kingdom' for 3-4 strings of 130 roundwood, I guess)

 

[Aidil]

With that kind of break angle at the bridge saddle, I'd recommend using a taper wound low-B.

Although, since you are top-loading the strings, in order to avoid the unwanted harmonics problem often occurs with long taper wound strings, you'll need to get the one which has the shortest taper measured from the ball end, which in my experience is the Elixir 130tw (about 1¾" long):

Avoid too long taper wound low-B, such as the Dunlop 130T (about 2¼" long) on this second pic, which is more suited for thru-body stringing:

Anyhow, since it appears that your bass bridge also accepts thru-body stringing, you could just opt stringing the taper wound low-B thru-body had you gotten the one with longer taper, but, only if the thru-body hole is big enough for the low-B you preferred.

In any case you weren't familiar with taper wound strings, they need a little bit adjustment on the saddle height to compensate the thinner wound that goes on top of the saddle. Also, you might want to cut short that long intonation screw on the low-B, especially if you install a taper wound low-B which thicker part goes bellow the saddle peak, that might get it too close and hit the intonation screw when plucked with hard attacks.

 

[michael_t]

@kantor1003 ...

Are you located in the US?

 

[kantor1003]

With that kind of break angle at the bridge saddle, I'd recommend using a taper wound low-B...

Thank you so much for your reply, most helpful! I will check out taper wound, see if I can buy a single 130 string, though I'm somewhat worried that it won't give me that overdriven sound, which in large part with the Darkglass seems to come from the bite of those roundwood strings. What do you think? Alternatively, I could perhaps compromise somewhat by adjusting the intonation a little, to make it easier on the string, and hope the intonation will still be passable.

 

[kantor1003]

@kantor1003 ...

Are you located in the US?

Thank you! Un/fortunately I'm in Norway.

 

[Aidil]

Thank you so much for your reply, most helpful! I will check out taper wound, see if I can buy a single 130 string, though I'm somewhat worried that it won't give me that overdriven sound, which in large part with the Darkglass seems to come from the bite of those roundwood strings. What do you think? Alternatively, I could perhaps compromise somewhat by adjusting the intonation a little, to make it easier on the string, and hope the intonation will still be passable.

All string I've shown on my previous post were round wounds.

Single tapered round wound strings are mostly available online.

 

[JeezyMcNuggles]

I'm at a loss here. Recently got my jazz bass set up. I broke the B string today (130 roundwood, earnieball, see picture, 3-4 weeks old). I play kind of heavy with a pick, but not that heavy??. To have the intonation right, I see that it is now set quite far towards the bridge, so that there seems to be quite some tension there on the string. Anyway, thought that if I have to change that string every 3-4 weeks, that's okay.. and then I installed a new string. As I tuned it up, it seems like some part of the string gave - perhaps I hadn't pulled the string far enough into the bridge before tuning up?? - and when I tried playing, it sounded, but it sounded like poop. I took two pictures at the end of the string where some damage might have happened. Has it broken too? Anyway, what should I do? I can't even find, it seems, anywhere where I can buy a single 130 roundwood string either, and I'm poor enough so that I can't keep throwing money on strings, setup etc. only to have it slapped back into my face. Should I go back to the workshop where I got the setup, perhaps, and tell them about this? If the bridge get adjusted again, to relieve some tension, the intonation will be off, and I can't have that because the songs require that I play high up, also, on that string. Someone please help, I have gigs coming up soon.
(My 'kingdom' for 3-4 strings of 130 roundwood, I guess)

What kind of strings?

 

[michael_t]

I broke the B string today (130 roundwood, earnieball, see picture, 3-4 weeks old).

What kind of strings?

I'm assuming the OP is talking about the Ernie Ball Slinky 45-130.

 

[brianrost]

Check for a rough surface on the saddle. I had that problem where a string ground into the saddle and over time the rough surface sawed through the winding, like on your string, and the string broke. That was the only time I've ever had a string break on a bass guitar in 40 years.

I'd skip buying that brand again (also avoid Rotosounds) and look at brands like Fender, GHS, D'addario and whatever Euro brands are available.

 

[JeezyMcNuggles]

I'm assuming the OP is talking about the Ernie Ball Slinky 45-130.

View attachment 4688336

That's why

 

[David McIntire]

That is a Fender American Deluxe bridge. I use the same one on my bass guitar. I play heavy music and pluck very hard. I have my bridge saddle in approximately the same position, for intonation purposes. I use a 130 B string, non tapered, D'Addario ProSteel. To avoid all the mess of winding near the string anchor being near or on my bridge saddle, I string my bass thru body. I've had no string breakage issues, averaging 200 shows a year over the last 12 years of owning my bass, and countless rehearsals, sessions and personal practice. I say this to give the OP some confidence, that a 130 B CAN be used with success on this bridge playing with that style. I've included a couple pics of my bridge, strung and tuned to pitch. I can think a bit on cures for the issue, but it may help to both string thru body, despite the break angle, and/or try a different string. I've had no luck with Ernie Ball strings over the course of my playing "career", but I know plenty of guys who use em successfully.

 

[GTHintz]

Even though I'm not a fan of Ernie Ball strings even though I live close to thier string production plant I feel like you might want to give taper core strings a shot. Or even try exposed core strings like Dean Markley SR 2000. As long as there are no sharp spots on the saddle it should be fine. That can cause any string to malfunction though.

 

[kantor1003]

Thanks for all the feedback! I went to a music shop and they found that surface on the saddle there, as pointed out by brianrost, was a little bit rough and could do with some filing, which they did. I now put a 135 string on it (the only single string they had available there) through the body and it works just fine now! Still not completely happy with the intonation, though passable, so I will ask the one that set it up last time to have one more look at it this coming week. Thanks again everyone

 

[Aidil]

Regarding the intonation, IME, a 135 requires the saddle set further back compared to lighter gauge low-B's (120 ~ 130).

 

[kantor1003]

Regarding the intonation, IME, a 135 requires the saddle set further back compared to lighter gauge low-B's (120 ~ 130).

Ah, ok, I think you are right, because it seems to have impacted intonation somewhat, contrary to what the guy working at the store claimed.
Back to 130 I guess
Thanks for your input!

 

[HaphAsSard]

Ah, ok, I think you are right, because it seems to have impacted intonation somewhat, contrary to what the guy working at the store claimed. Unfortunate that I just ordered 3 strings of 135’s, since I don’t think I can bring the saddle anymore backwards.
Thanks for your input!

The spring around the intonation screw isn't especially functional: if you need the saddle further back you can remove the spring, cut it in half and put it back on; or even dispense with it altogether.

 

[Zooberwerx]

Allowing the over-wrap to cross the saddle (as in pic #1) is a no-no and will play havoc with just about everything including the aforementioned breakage.

Riis

 

[kantor1003]

Allowing the over-wrap to cross the saddle (as in pic #1) is a no-no and will play havoc with just about everything including the aforementioned breakage.

Riis

Not sure I quite understand. Do I avoid this now that I have stringed through the body (as DavidMcIntire have done, see above). At least it seems that there is far less tension on the string there now, and I hope, with the saddle also having been filed, that the problem is solved.

 

[HaphAsSard]

Not sure I quite understand. Do I avoid this now that I have stringed through the body (as DavidMcIntire have done, see above). At least it seems that there is far less tension on the string there now, and I hope, with the saddle also having been filed, that the problem is solved.

Assuming what the poster above wrote is true, which I'm not sure about, yes you do avoid it by stringing through the body (the overwound section will be inside the body, not in contact with the saddle), and yes the culprit was in all likelihood the sharp saddle.

 

[Zooberwerx]

Not sure I quite understand. Do I avoid this now that I have stringed through the body (as DavidMcIntire have done, see above). At least it seems that there is far less tension on the string there now, and I hope, with the saddle also having been filed, that the problem is solved.

Hope so, as well. You always want the full over-wrap in the afterlength (in back of the saddle). Stringing thru-body can help as you've already witnessed. In more dire circumstances, you can place a spacer on the string when stringing thru-bridge.

Riis