Call this guy. He fixed an 83 Pbass with the same problem for me. Under $200 http://www.axehaven.com/
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Bad neck
- Thread starter Fletz
- Start date
Is the truss rod adjustable at all? If it is, you may be able to have the frets pulled, the hump at the 15th-17th frets leveled adn them refretted. Worse case senario is gthat the fingerboard has to come off for a truss rod replacment. Its not as bad as it sounds. I would try to save the original neck. And yes, applying heat to straighten a neck with back-bow is permanemt if done correctly. A twist is a different story.
If the truss rod nut is just stripped the walnut plug can be removed along with the nut and stop bar for the biflex and a new trussrod nut installed. Replace the stop bar,nut and install a new plug with access hole and you should be good again. It's been 7 years since the repair on my P Bass. Still work great and turns smoothly.
Do you have any pictures of the stripped hex nut? A visual may help us come up some ideas on how to fix it.
Hey guys (and gals) - I am actually thinking about selling it at this point. However, I did post pix of the nut on the truss as part of my full disclosure in the ad here on TB. Please check it out and let me know what your thoughts may be on fixing it - if I can, I will.
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?p=10348119#post10348119
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?p=10348119#post10348119
Figures that I can't find the right tools when I need to but this should give you an idea of what worked for me. I bought a MIK Squier Jazz Neck off of Craigslist that had a stripped nut and was able to remove the nut using short screw extractors like these. I bought mine from Harbour Freight but you can probably get them from Sears or any other place that sells tools.
They have an aggressive taper and reverse helix that will bite into the sides of the nut when turned counter-clockwise.
They need to be the short screw extractors. NOT the long ones. Unfortunately I couldn't find the set that I bought and just had some long ones laying around for these pictures. So in the next few pictures substitute the long tapered extractor for the short ones pictured above. The short tapered ones will bite into the sides of the stripped nut before bottoming out where the Allen wrench goes. The long ones will not and will bottom out before getting a bite. If I can find the short set I have I’ll edit the pictures and post.
Make sure you remove string tree and the tuners needed to get a straight shot at the nut. The key is to have the screw extractor bite into the stripped nut nice and square.
Here is a picture of everything. The 1/4 drive ratchet, extension, screw extractor, and the removed nut at the end. Of course your setup won't have the nut at the end as that's still in your neck.
Here is a shot with the ratchet, extension, and screw extractor in place. Once again make sure you remove everything needed to get a straight shot at the nut.
Here is the extracted screw from my neck
When the screw extractor bites into the thin walls it may bulge them out slightly and it might score the sides of the walls of the truss rod opening. I haven't cleaned mine up but with a little sandpaper and some clear lacquer or brush on poly you should be able to make it look good again.
I hope that helps. If you got any questions let me know.
They have an aggressive taper and reverse helix that will bite into the sides of the nut when turned counter-clockwise.
They need to be the short screw extractors. NOT the long ones. Unfortunately I couldn't find the set that I bought and just had some long ones laying around for these pictures. So in the next few pictures substitute the long tapered extractor for the short ones pictured above. The short tapered ones will bite into the sides of the stripped nut before bottoming out where the Allen wrench goes. The long ones will not and will bottom out before getting a bite. If I can find the short set I have I’ll edit the pictures and post.
Make sure you remove string tree and the tuners needed to get a straight shot at the nut. The key is to have the screw extractor bite into the stripped nut nice and square.
Here is a picture of everything. The 1/4 drive ratchet, extension, screw extractor, and the removed nut at the end. Of course your setup won't have the nut at the end as that's still in your neck.
Here is a shot with the ratchet, extension, and screw extractor in place. Once again make sure you remove everything needed to get a straight shot at the nut.
Here is the extracted screw from my neck
When the screw extractor bites into the thin walls it may bulge them out slightly and it might score the sides of the walls of the truss rod opening. I haven't cleaned mine up but with a little sandpaper and some clear lacquer or brush on poly you should be able to make it look good again.
I hope that helps. If you got any questions let me know.
PM me your address. I'm and engineer for a machine shop and had some made out of 304 Stainless Steel. Not because there is really any advantage to using Stainless I just thought it would be cool plus it should never rust. I've got about 4 left over and you can have one. If it doesn't work (It should, the threads are 10-32) you should be able to get one at most guitar shops or order one from guitar center, stewmac, all parts, etc...
Yeah - I'm actually quite disappointed with them the more I read on line here. I love the shop that's local, but they send things to their PA shop for repair. To be honest, and sadly, I've seen this alot, I think the guy just doesn't want to put in the effort.
So this thread is old, but perhaps someone will see my call for help. I got a nice 93 MIK Fender Squier Series Precision, Maui Blue. The nut is stripped. I followed instructions up here to get it off, but I'm having a really hard time finding a replacement. just ordered the allparts bullet 10/32" nut, but it's way bigger diameter than the one that came off and won't go through the hole. I'll attach pics on a tape measure shortly. Thanks in advance for looking out!
Your neck may have a M4 thread rather than a 10-32 thread. Did you try matching your old one up with a 10-32 bolt just to make sure that is indeed a 10-32 thread? The M4 truss rod nuts might have a smaller outside diameter. Do you also have a way to measure the old nut vs the new one you just got? I’m curious what the difference would be. Last, if you can’t figure it you’re more than welcome to send me your old and new nut I could turn down the outside diameter on the new one to match the old nut. Just send me a PM if that’s route you want to go.
