• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

BadAss vs. BadAss II

#2
life.x said:
i just bought the Bad Ass bridge, and sounds amazing but i was wondering how much better is the Bad Ass II bridge?
:confused:
Click to expand...

It's 10x better than the BadAss. Only posers buy the BA I. The BA I was recalled once because it would blow up basses. I used to own one but luckily I bought the BA II before something bad happened. I heard of a guy with a old EB3 Gibson that had his bridge burn the finish right off.

But you discovered all this when you researched and considered purchasing the BA I.

You DID ask these questions didn't you? :rollno:
 
#5
Ok, well since it's made outta zinc, like the Bad Ass 2, it could do that but the only reason that happened was because there were surges of electricity through the bass, probably from cheap ampilfiers or disfunctional amps. So why don't you hook up a few car batteries to the Bad Ass 2 and see what happens, the same thing burning and the powersurge to take out the electronics.
 
#6
life.x said:
Ok, well since it's made outta zinc, like the Bad Ass 2, it could do that but the only reason that happened was because there were surges of electricity through the bass, probably from cheap ampilfiers or disfunctional amps. So why don't you hook up a few car batteries to the Bad Ass 2 and see what happens, the same thing burning and the powersurge to take out the electronics.
Click to expand...

If you don't see the sarcasm in my post, well... :scowl: :rollno:
 
#9
life.x said:
weell, then i'm sorry but computers don't have emotions....

I read other things on the site from you, and found them to be helpful, and that caught me off gaurd with that statement :hmm:
Click to expand...

Lifex, here's the whole point with my first post -

You bought a BA. It did exactly what it should have done and you like it. That's essentially it. Case closed. But after the fact, you asked how much "better" the BAII is. If it really meant anything to you, that is a question that should have been asked and answered well before you bought the BAI. The BAII isn't "better" - it doesn't "sound" better - it doesn't anchor the strings "better" it doesn't look "better" - it doesn't intonate "better". It's simply a slightly different version of the same bridge designed for a different application.

All I'm trying to point out is that one shouldn't be fooled with all of the hype that flies around about things like this. They didn't name one I and the other II because II was better than I.

And to clear the air - the "blowup" condition I described above is impossible to achieve. In fact, if you were to put enough current into the instrument to actually burn the body, you probably already be dead from touching any metal part of the body. Here, too, I wanted to point out the absurdity of the nature of the question.

I'm surprised no one called me on it. :)
 
#10
Does the BA I work for short-scale as well? If someone has one around, could they be so kind to tell me the measurement from the two end saddles, groove to groove? Or do you file those ones yourself? Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. I've posted around a few other threads with not much luck. I have this short-scale 70's Kay EB copy that I acquired for free and the bridge is missing the saddles and want to just replace the whole thing. Thanks
 
#12
Weaponofdoom said:
Does the BA I work for short-scale as well? If someone has one around, could they be so kind to tell me the measurement from the two end saddles, groove to groove? Or do you file those ones yourself? Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. I've posted around a few other threads with not much luck. I have this short-scale 70's Kay EB copy that I acquired for free and the bridge is missing the saddles and want to just replace the whole thing. Thanks
Click to expand...

Hear is a pic of both if it helps:
pidgg3j5xa.jpg


Yes you have to file the saddles. I have 3 BA I's on both short and long scale basses with no problems. The have less intonation travel and sit a bit higher off the bass. They also are more "rounded" to approximate a small radius but each saddle is still adjustable.
 
#13
is there anyway you could take a measurement of the width of it? Also, I think the current bridge on my short scale EB copy is really small/skinny. The two outer grooves the strings go in are only 2" (a little less even) apart, does that seem really short-spaced?
 
#14
Weaponofdoom said:
is there anyway you could take a measurement of the width of it? Also, I think the current bridge on my short scale EB copy is really small/skinny. The two outer grooves the strings go in are only 2" (a little less even) apart, does that seem really short-spaced?
Click to expand...

I thinkHofners are 2", I know Rics are and they've been retrofited with BA's for years. The difference is only 1/4 of an inch so I think by filing the slots a bit "in" you should be fine. If it doesn't work...I was never here.


...hides
 
#16
The BA I is good for basses with recessed neck angles (Gibsons) since the deck height is much higer. The BA II is meant for flat neck angles (Fenders).

Just to add to the confusion, I prefer the BA III. I think that is has the best of both worlds.
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back