Router bit advice for body trimming

[CigiBass]

Hi all

I’m currently building a p bass copy and to early 60s specs I’m going for 41mm thickness for the body.
I have bought a makita rt0702 trim router with plunge base etc. I’m now looking for a router bit to trim the edge of the body after I have use the bandsaw to cut out the rough shape.

I was thinking of buying this bit and making a simple table for the router.
Cmt router bit
In theory this should work, but I was wondering if the makita could handle this? Is it to heavy a job for such a small trim router?

What do you guys think?

 

[RichterScale]

From a quick search...

"The Makita RT0702 trim router comes standard with a 1/4-inch (6.35 mm) collet chuck in most regions, and it is also compatible with optional 6 mm and 8 mm collets.
Collet and Chuck Details:-
Standard Size: 1/4-inch (6.35 mm)Alternative Sizes: 6 mm and 8 mm (depending on regional kits or purchased separately)
Compatibility: Shares similar collet sizing and interchangeability with other Makita compact routers like the RT0701C and DRT50."

 

[RichterScale]

if you can find a bit with a 6mm shank, or a collet for 8mm, I think you'll be okay, as long as you go in small passes and don't try to hog out too much material at once.
I used my little cordless Ryobi trim router for round overs and pickup cavities.

 

[Beej]

I agree, just go slow and don't try to take too much off at once. I'd suggest cutting as close to the line as you dare so that the router bit only has to take off 2mm or less.

 

[CigiBass]

From a quick search...

"The Makita RT0702 trim router comes standard with a 1/4-inch (6.35 mm) collet chuck in most regions, and it is also compatible with optional 6 mm and 8 mm collets.
Collet and Chuck Details:-
Standard Size: 1/4-inch (6.35 mm)Alternative Sizes: 6 mm and 8 mm (depending on regional kits or purchased separately)
Compatibility: Shares similar collet sizing and interchangeability with other Makita compact routers like the RT0701C and DRT50."

Yes here it fits 6 or 8 mm. My question was not so much “does it fit”, but more “will it work well”.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

Hi all

I’m currently building a p bass copy and to early 60s specs I’m going for 41mm thickness for the body.
I have bought a makita rt0702 trim router with plunge base etc. I’m now looking for a router bit to trim the edge of the body after I have use the bandsaw to cut out the rough shape.

I was thinking of buying this bit and making a simple table for the router.
Cmt router bit
In theory this should work, but I was wondering if the makita could handle this? Is it to heavy a job for such a small trim router?

What do you guys think?

I wouldn't recommend it. I assume that you intend to mount a template on the top surface of the body blank, and then go around the perimeter cutting the full thickness of the body in one pass? A trim router, mounted in a homemade table, doesn't have the horsepower or the mechanical rigidity to do that safely. Too much depth of cut at one time. It's going to grab and kick and buck, and could break and throw things. I'm not saying that it can't be done, but it's risky. You would have to feed very gently to keep it under control.

Routing the perimeter of a body requires a bigger machine, and/or some way of making the cut in multiple smaller steps. Such as a collar router with a straight bit and an offset template, or different size bearings for your pattern-following bit.

If you are just building a one-off for yourself, for fun, I recommend that you shape and smooth the perimeter by hand with a large file and some sanding blocks. That will take less time than building a router table. And it's good therapy and experience.

 

[CigiBass]

if you can find a bit with a 6mm shank, or a collet for 8mm, I think you'll be okay, as long as you go in small passes and don't try to hog out too much material at once.
I used my little cordless Ryobi trim router for round overs and pickup cavities.

Thx for the reply. So you don’t use your Ryobi for the sides? What do you use for the sides?

I agree, just go slow and don't try to take too much off at once. I'd suggest cutting as close to the line as you dare so that the router bit only has to take off 2mm or less.

Thx, maybe I’ll use the oscillating sander to trim off some extra wood first.

 

[CigiBass]

I wouldn't recommend it. I assume that you intend to mount a template on the top surface of the body blank, and then go around the perimeter cutting the full thickness of the body in one pass? A trim router, mounted in a homemade table, doesn't have the horsepower or the mechanical rigidity to do that safely. Too much depth of cut at one time. It's going to grab and kick and buck, and could break and throw things. I'm not saying that it can't be done, but it's risky. You would have to feed very gently to keep it under control.

Routing the perimeter of a body requires a bigger machine, and/or some way of making the cut in multiple smaller steps. Such as a collar router with a straight bit and an offset template, or different size bearings for your pattern-following bit.

If you are just building a one-off for yourself, for fun, I recommend that you shape and smooth the perimeter by hand with a large file and some sanding blocks. That will take less time than building a router table.

Yeah that’s what I was afraid of.

I was thinking as well, if I bought a pattern following bit with the bearing on the shaft side from about 30mm to start with the template in the top. And a bit with the bearing on the bottom with a 25mm blade. This way, I can turn over the body and follow the trimmed part as the guide for the bearing.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

Yeah that’s what I was afraid of.

I was thinking as well, if I bought a pattern following bit with the bearing on the shaft side from about 30mm to start with the template in the top. And a bit with the bearing on the bottom with a 25mm blade. This way, I can turn over the body and follow the trimmed part as the guide for the bearing.

Yes, that's one way to make the operation better and safer. Use a top-bearing pattern-following bit that is shorter in height, like 1/2 or 1/3 the depth of the body. Cut the depth of the body in two or three passes. Mount your template on the bottom of the blank. and make the first cut with the bearing riding on the template. Then, take the template off, and make the second and third cuts with the bearing riding on the 1st cut surface. That takes the load off and makes things smoother and safer.

When I rout body perimeters, using a Pin Router, I usually do it in multiple steps of 1/8" or less. Like, 14 passes. That's the best way to get a smooth accurate cut and avoid tear-out and chattering.

 

[RichterScale]

Thx for the reply. So you don’t use your Ryobi for the sides? What do you use for the sides?

I have a slightly larger, corded router for larger jobs, but even with that, I don't do anything strenuous with it and still work in small passes.
I just assumed that (like myself most of the time), you were looking to get the job done with what you had and didn't want to invest in a larger tool for possibly one job.
I totally didn't register the part where you said you're thinking of building a table for the trim router. I agree with Bruce on that. A trim router isn't robust enough for being mounted in a table and doing tougher jobs.
Rethinking my answer (after paying a little more attention), I think it would be a good investment to get a larger, corded router for bigger stuff. Even if you don't use it often, it's definitely worth it for when you do. And you won't risk wearing out/breaking the trim router prematurely,....or an injury.
Also,......buying new tools for any reason? I'm in!
If you're reeeeally careful and hyper focus and plan, you can pull it off with the trim router. But it just makes more sense to spend a few bucks and get a bigger one.
(Still be really careful and hyper focus/plan).

 

[CigiBass]

It’s my first build, but I’m planning on building more often. That being said, the budget is running out for this project, so buying a few decent router bits is the most I’ll be buying for now.

I have an oscillating spindel sander which I used for a previous body. It worked quite ok. I think I’ll go the route of two bits, one with the bearing on the shaft and one on the bottom, and work in small passes from both sides.

Maybe a few builds in the future I’ll invest in a sturdier router. I got the advice here to start with a quality trim router, because it gets most usage when building an electric bass.

 

[RichterScale]

It’s my first build, but I’m planning on building more often.

Awesome.
Did you start a thread? keep us in the loop along the way. And the collective knowledge and willingness to help around here is invaluable.
Or as some folks have described me,..."insufferable".
I'm pretty sure it means the same thing.

 

[Barticus]

I use a similar trim router in my CNC. but I take very small passes and don’t cut too much wood at once. Even when cutting a body contour cut on the outside, I do it in eighth of an inch increments so as to not put too much load on the trim router.

So to echo all of the great advice above, you can use the trim router to do this work, but you just don’t want to cut a lot of wood at once, take it slow and make multiple passes. You’ll eventually get there.

 

[ctmullins]

The trim router is fine. No way I would mount it in a router table. In fact I avoid my router table entirely. I feel much safer with the body clamped to the work table and the router in my hands.

Don’t buy cheap bits. Whiteside are good.

 

[RichterScale]

If you are just building a one-off for yourself, for fun, I recommend that you shape and smooth the perimeter by hand with a large file and some sanding blocks. That will take less time than building a router table. And it's good therapy and experience.

I also wanted to 2nd this option. Very rewarding.
And the more you experience, the more you'll need therapy. And more tools.
Kind of a self-perpetuating system/cycle.

 

[Jazzdogg]

Hi all

I’m currently building a p bass copy and to early 60s specs I’m going for 41mm thickness for the body.
I have bought a makita rt0702 trim router with plunge base etc. I’m now looking for a router bit to trim the edge of the body after I have use the bandsaw to cut out the rough shape.

I was thinking of buying this bit and making a simple table for the router.
Cmt router bit
In theory this should work, but I was wondering if the makita could handle this? Is it to heavy a job for such a small trim router?

What do you guys think?

As a retired college woodworking instructor I believe you're probably in over your head. And when working with power tools, what you don't know can cause traumatic injuries that can effect you for the rest of your life, in milliseconds.

Listen to Bruce. He knows what he's talking about.

 

[rudy4444]

It’s my first build, but I’m planning on building more often. That being said, the budget is running out for this project, so buying a few decent router bits is the most I’ll be buying for now.

I have an oscillating spindel sander which I used for a previous body. It worked quite ok. I think I’ll go the route of two bits, one with the bearing on the shaft and one on the bottom, and work in small passes from both sides.

Maybe a few builds in the future I’ll invest in a sturdier router. I got the advice here to start with a quality trim router, because it gets most usage when building an electric bass.

The vertical oscillating spindle sander is by far my preferred weapon of choice. So easy and so safe.

Routers have their use, but pattern routing a body pretty much requires a much beefier router with 1/2" shank bits. It also requires an ability to read grain correctly to prevent (or minimize...) tear out.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

It’s my first build, but I’m planning on building more often. That being said, the budget is running out for this project, so buying a few decent router bits is the most I’ll be buying for now.

I have an oscillating spindel sander which I used for a previous body. It worked quite ok. I think I’ll go the route of two bits, one with the bearing on the shaft and one on the bottom, and work in small passes from both sides.

Maybe a few builds in the future I’ll invest in a sturdier router. I got the advice here to start with a quality trim router, because it gets most usage when building an electric bass.

You need the router to cut the pockets; the neck pocket and the pickup cavities and control cavity. A small trim router is fine for those jobs, as long as you take it easy with multiple shallow cuts. When you are starting out, it's easier to do the perimeter of the body with your bandsaw, spindle sander, files and sanding blocks.

Later on, you can get a bigger router and build better fixtures and templates, and try doing the perimeter with a router. But that's a lot of preparation work for a one-off. It only starts paying off when you are making multiple bodies of the same shape.

 

[Bonkersville]

I have that router and it's great. And I think CMT bits are good quality for the price. But I would not recommend that job on a small router with a straight flute bit. It could work, if you're careful. But it can also go very wrong very easily.

If doing that job on a small router I'd recommend those spiral carbide flush trim bits. In my experience they are easy to control, do a good quality surface, and have very little tendency to grab the grain. But that's a big job for a 6 or 8 mm bit.

I would use the spindle sander you have on all the concave sections and a good file or finer rasp on the convex. I like my shinto rasp for shaping flat edge surfaces, but it's reach has limitations. A flat edge is easier to maintain if you go along the edge and not across it. As in if you have the body flat on a workbench you go horisontally as much as possible. At least for me I tend to tilt the file a little differently at different parts of the stroke. Which results in a slightly curved surface.

 

[RichterScale]

As a retired college woodworking instructor I believe you're probably in over your head

seems a little more barky than waggy, no?
The OP seems conscious enough to ask the right questions (to ask any in the first place) and ask them in the right place. I think CigiBass will do okay. We were all in over our heads at one point. Shoot, that seems to be a permanent state for me.
That's why I loiter in the LC.