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Balance

Would it help anyone if I designed a simple peace of gear to improve the physical balance of basses, keeping the neck steady without holding it up with the left hand, or pressing the body down with the right? Some very big brands of basses have this problem. For me, a sound reason to never buy such a bass. So, please, opinions first, and, who knows, a poll later.
 
Here are my guesses on how something like this would work. You'd do one of the following:

1) Add weight to the bass (counterweight).
2) Physically relocate strap buttons (drill) to change the balance point of the bass as it fits on your body.
3) Install some piece of equipment that non-permanently provides a anchor point for the strap, to accomplish the same thing as #2 above.

Am I close?
 
Here are my guesses on how something like this would work. You'd do one of the following:

1) Add weight to the bass (counterweight).
2) Physically relocate strap buttons (drill) to change the balance point of the bass as it fits on your body.
3) Install some piece of equipment that non-permanently provides a anchor point for the strap, to accomplish the same thing as #2 above.

Am I close?

I notice you did pay attention in physics class.

But... do you think many bassist would need it?
 
I think if you can perfect anything, there will be a market. I don't want to drill holes in my nice new basses, nor do I like added weight, nor do I like ugly aftermarket strap button relocators. That's usually why I don't buy basses with balance problems.

So if you can solve any of those problems, maybe I would.
 
I tried some dlx JBs recently, and (apart from the balance issue) a fine German 5-string fretless, a Sandberg. All of them had balance problems. The Sandberg you couldn't even play decently when seated. So I keep on wondering:
1) why do people go on buying these instruments
2) why aren't they designed in a way that avoids these problems?
 
But... do you think many bassist would need it?
ya the people who have EPI Tbirds would love it for those who are crying about it all the time AFTER they checked it out in the store, and STILL bought it knowing what they do :rollno:
...fortunately for EPi's the neck plate makes a perfect spot to relocate the pin, and does no damage whatsoever...

the counterweight idea is ok for those who don't care about adding another couple lbs to the body, but would I want to try one out before I bought it????...sure!!!

the best thing about that ebay ad is they DO NOT show a tbird with the device attached.....;) I wonder why?

YES among my basses I do have a nice EPI-DIVER. the funny thing is, I don't notice it unless I really think about it, as my strap dont move too much, and it holds the thing up fine.
 
The best balanaced basses I have ever played are made by Status and Steinberger because of the graphite necks and lack of a headstock. The majority of the weight is in the body, specifically that weighty bridge. Other than adding weight and/or re-drilling strap holes, what can one do (besides buying a balanced bass)?
 
So... there's no massive need i suppose... Strange, everybody is thinking about relocating the neckside straplock.:D
How about the one on the backside? It would have to move BEHIND the body, to the left that is.

The basic idea is as follows. A rather stiff strip of (chromed) iron, 2 mm thick, about an inch wide, in a 90 degree angle to make a hook. the angle a bit rounded. The inside of the hook rubber coated to not damage the bass´ finish.

One leg of the hook will be about an inch long, maybe a little more. The other leg about 3 inches.

In the short leg there is an oblong hole, to be able to adjust it to the thickness of the bass´ body.

Step 2 (see below for step 1): Unscrew the bottom straplock. Screw on the hook with a nice fitting/nice looking chromed screw using the staplock hole without drilling. It needn´t be screwed on too tightly. Make sure the long leg is fixed against the back side of the bass.

Step 1: Now for the long leg. In the leg there wille be a long hole with rounded ends. On the rubbered inside of this long leg space will be left to make room for the head of a small bolt, deep enough not to damage the bass. This bolt will fit into a straplock-shaped nut.
The long hole makes it possible to adjust the balance to personal taste by tightening the straplock nut in a certain position along the hole.
In most cases the straplock (that will be pointing at the player) is far enough to the right not to prick into the players belly :D

And nobody will see anything, it's all behind the body.

QED
 
Chris, are selling the device on ebay and fishing for sales? because what you are describing is so close to what he says in the ad: ;):D

The T-Bird is attached under the lower strap button which screws into the bottom of your guitar body. Tighten the strap button up and your all set. By attaching it to the strap button, it applies a downward force directly to the bottom edge of your guitar (most efficient spot). This counteracts the dive force from the neck weight, thereby, perfectly balancing your guitar. The extra weight is noticeable when you hold your guitar but easily manageable. Made of heavy-duty steel with an oven-baked enamel finish topped off with 3 coats of clear enamel. Felt pads on the underside of the T-Bird protect the surface of your guitar. Fits snug up against the body of your guitar - won’t catch on your clothing or belt while you play

I think you are right though, anyone who willingly buys a bass that they know is gonna dive is up to them. If they dont want it, then they wont buy it however for those who do complain, your idea may be valid, and marketable...


you want me to be the guinea pig to see if I like it?
 
I think 99% of bassists are too "in love with" the more traditional short or medium length top horn, so that's 99% of what people buy, with no regard whatsoever for whether it balances.

Me, I'd rather buy a bass that was well-balanced to begin with, or at least has a nice long top horn.
 
I tried some dlx JBs recently, and (apart from the balance issue) a fine German 5-string fretless, a Sandberg. All of them had balance problems. The Sandberg you couldn't even play decently when seated. So I keep on wondering:
1) why do people go on buying these instruments
2) why aren't they designed in a way that avoids these problems?

I have no idea why it's so overlooked. In fact, I've played bunches of basses over the years from boutiques to foreign crap copies; only two of them had even acceptable balance and I bought both of em (G&L L2000 and L2500).

The only production bass I know of where good balance is the main feature is the Bunny Brunel signature bass by Carvin. If you watch the video of BB talking about it, it's pretty obvious the balance is perfect on it.
Given BB's style, you can see why he'd want good balance and why it'd be the primary feature of his bass.

My L2000 comes pretty close to being perfectly balanced and is so when playing seated. My L2500 is slightly neck-heavy and I still sit on the strap when playing it seated. Both can stay almost at the 75 deg. or so position when playing them standing up on the strap so they're both quite serviceable.

Extending the upper horn is the best fix (a-la the BB Carvin) for balance when standing. Moving the lower cutaway more forward (i.e. on the Carvin LB series) is the best fix for good balance when seated (assuming you play with the bass sitting on your leg. If you hold the bass classical style probably not)....

LS
 
ive never had a problem with neck dive, the biggest culprit it seems (the most complaining from users i have read) is the epi T bird........ but i find it fine, the maple is so light anyway its not a problem.

i have a sandberg and i have no issues at all with balance, but i have a P not a J so the slanted waist of the J shape may be the counter for the balance.

i also have a jaguar bass, it doesnt sit at the most comfortable angle on the knee/thigh when seated but its not as bad as the body would seem, when standing again no problems at all.
 
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