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Baltic Birch Grades
- Thread starter jimo
- Start date
Mr. Foxen
Commercial User
Should probably call the place you are buying from and ask them. But here's a glossary: Invalid Link Removed
Here is some information on grading. There are two faces, front and back. BB/CP is the grade front and back. Baltic birch is void free because the inside laminates are a single piece.
I like baltic birch and I prefer to use it over other products. The problem that I find is that can warp. Maybe it is just the humidity where I live. When buying wood, it is better if you can pick out the pieces that you want to make sure that they are straight. I find that if I keep it standing up against a flat surface it stores better than lying down.
I like baltic birch and I prefer to use it over other products. The problem that I find is that can warp. Maybe it is just the humidity where I live. When buying wood, it is better if you can pick out the pieces that you want to make sure that they are straight. I find that if I keep it standing up against a flat surface it stores better than lying down.
It shows this:
BB/CP: Single piece face and back. The âCPâ back veneers are downgraded from âBBâ grade veneers, which allow for unlimited patches and sound knots, but does not allow for open defects. Inner cores are solid birch single piece veneers
So this would be the "void free" that all these projects call for???
This is much cheaper than going to get the small pieces at Woodcraft, but the Woodcraft stuff is probably a higher grade, ...........but would it matter???? Moreover....WOULD IT RATTLE AND VIBRATE in a not so good way??
BB/CP: Single piece face and back. The âCPâ back veneers are downgraded from âBBâ grade veneers, which allow for unlimited patches and sound knots, but does not allow for open defects. Inner cores are solid birch single piece veneers
So this would be the "void free" that all these projects call for???
This is much cheaper than going to get the small pieces at Woodcraft, but the Woodcraft stuff is probably a higher grade, ...........but would it matter???? Moreover....WOULD IT RATTLE AND VIBRATE in a not so good way??
It sounds like you are good to go. All baltic birch is void free and that's what you are looking for.
The quality of the outside pieces varies with the grade. With a top grade, the wood surface looks clean. As the grade goes down so does the number of allowable small knots in the wood and oval patches where they cut something out and fixed it. For furniture where the wood grain is exposed, you want a clean look. If the ply that is going to be covered, a lower quality isn't an issue. In general, you pay for what you get. The top quality wood costs more.
I would look at the price differences and decide which makes most sense for your project. If price isn't an issue, I usually get the best quality. But a higher grade is not going to make a difference in terms of internal wood vibrating. The inside layers are all the same.
Also who you are buying the product matters. Is the wood certified baltic birch or a knockoff. Is the wood stored inside a warehouse or is it frozen out in a yard.
The quality of the outside pieces varies with the grade. With a top grade, the wood surface looks clean. As the grade goes down so does the number of allowable small knots in the wood and oval patches where they cut something out and fixed it. For furniture where the wood grain is exposed, you want a clean look. If the ply that is going to be covered, a lower quality isn't an issue. In general, you pay for what you get. The top quality wood costs more.
I would look at the price differences and decide which makes most sense for your project. If price isn't an issue, I usually get the best quality. But a higher grade is not going to make a difference in terms of internal wood vibrating. The inside layers are all the same.
Also who you are buying the product matters. Is the wood certified baltic birch or a knockoff. Is the wood stored inside a warehouse or is it frozen out in a yard.
I still have a large stock of 3/8", but very low on 1/2".
Your prices are what I paid several years back, much higher now.
The 3/8" is great fun to work.
A bit of extra bracing work is a small price to pay for the weight reduction.
I still have several sheets of 3/4" BB, but those are too heavy for cabs.
They will probably go down as new bathroom floor.
Your prices are what I paid several years back, much higher now.
The 3/8" is great fun to work.
A bit of extra bracing work is a small price to pay for the weight reduction.
I still have several sheets of 3/4" BB, but those are too heavy for cabs.
They will probably go down as new bathroom floor.
Thought I would use 1/2", and brace it with dowels rods, for the cab , and use a piece of 3/4 inch for the baffle board, to give the T-Nuts something to dig into. I was going to use the Dura - Tex, but that looks like a $75 deal by the time I get it tinted and shipped, but I can get a couple of yards of Tolex for $34---haven't really made up my mind...what do you think?
If the wood looks nice, why not just stain it or something? A beat up natural wood cab still looks pretty cool. Beat up tolex looks like hell (as my old ACC 106 will attest to).
If you're concerned at all about warping or delamination, please move to exterior grade. From there is the outside ply finish grade, and how many "footballs" you're willing to accept. Cabinet grade being the highest for outer face ply, of course.
I coated my project with Herculiner. Similar to Dura-Tex. Worked fine. $30 dollars for a quart can at the local auto parts store. The can had enough for three coats plus.
