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Basic Speaker Design Questions

Thanks for the help. I'll post pictures as I go.

It will of course get lined with egg crate type foam. Anything else i'm forgetting?
Design your bracing scheme to stiffen up the open area out in the middle expanse of panels/walls to split up box resonances/cut down on vibrations. Energy spend vibrating the box is energy not making sound.

Not so much bracing is needed in corners, like you would see in most types of construction, as the panels are already stiff there.

A good, stiff baffle is always good as that is usually the flimsiest panel, due to the speaker cutouts, etc.

Any port location is fine, just if it's on the rear, you'll want to set the speaker a few inches away from the wall instead of shoving it right up against it as is often done in cramped practice rooms, etc., so the wall doesn't "choke off" the port function, or become a part of the port, essentially making the tuning become much lower than you like.

Same goes for a side port if the cab is setup right up against another cab beside it, like the guitarists rig or something.

Ports directly behind the driver can allow some midrange off the back off the cone to "escape" to the rear, though depending in design goals, that isn't always a bad thing.
 
Thanks for the help. I'll post pictures as I go.

It will of course get lined with egg crate type foam. Anything else i'm forgetting?

The acoustic damping material goes a long way. Many find that lining all interior surfaces takes some of the life out of the sound. Try lining just 3 sides first. If you find the sound too rough or peaky, then add more damping material, a side at a time.

If you go with a ported design, use at least 2 ports, preferably 4 inch ID (addresses potential 'chuffing' issue).

There is not a lot of performance difference between the 3-6 cf ported cabs and the 2-3 cf sealed cabs. The ported ones go a little deeper and have more mid and upper bass peaking, but exceed Xmax in the low-mid bass at relatively low power levels (read possible fart-out issues). Bass will be 'full' with a fair amount of 'bloom'. The sealed cabs have less mid and upper bass peaking (than the ported cabs) and are a little less extended into the deep bass, but handle more power in the mid and low bass, and have better note definition.
 
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The acoustic damping material goes a long way. Many find that lining all interior surfaces takes some of the life out of the sound. Try lining just 3 sides first. If you find the sound too rough or peaky, then add more damping material, a side at a time.

If you go with a ported design, use at least 2 ports, preferably 4 inch ID (addresses potential 'chuffing' issue).

There is not a lot of performance difference between the 3-6 cf ported cabs and the 2-3 cf sealed cabs. The ported ones go a little deeper and have more mid and upper bass peaking, but exceed Xmax in the low-mid bass at relatively low power levels (read possible fart-out issues). Bass will be 'full' with a fair amount of 'bloom'. The sealed cabs have less mid and upper bass peaking (than the ported cabs) and are a little less extended into the deep bass, but handle more power in the mid and low bass, and have better note definition.


+1

The driver is a good candidate for making ports with covers or plugs to be able to run either/or. Like opening the ports if playing outdoors where some "oomph" is usually lost. And sealing them if you play in a boomy room and/or have to setup in a corner.