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Bass MicroSynth - Can't daisy chain, short on extra outlets. Power brick?

So I've recently decided to buy the Electro-Harmonix Bass MicroSynth; in fact, it's currently shipping. I was reading the manual I downloaded from EHX's website and read that daisy-chaining the Synth may cause seriously bodily harm; in other words, I have to use my regular daisy chain to power my Big Muff Pi and my Dunlop Wah and use the included power source to power the BMS. I wouldn't have a problem with this except that the 3 outlets needed total (the other for my amp) is one too many for my practice space, meaning I'd have to play in absolute darkness or only use one set of effects at a time. I've considered getting a power brick once I get a decent side-job, but I'm still concerned about what brick will be compatible with the BMS. The included adapter is 200mA, so I assume that's what the BMS's milliampere requirement is. Are there any good power bricks that meet these requirements?

TL;DR: Need a cheap power brick ≥200mA. Good ones?
 
Any of the pedal power supplies with 100 mA, isolated outputs will work fine. The BMS doesn't need anywhere close to 200 mA, that's just the output rating on the included adapter. Let me reiterate though, you must have a supply with isolated outputs, such as a T Rex Fuel Tank, Jr. or a Voodoo Lab Pedal Power II+. Things like the Dunlop brick are just glorified daisy chains in a box and will not offer you much benefit over a simple 1spot.
 
Any of the pedal power supplies with 100 mA, isolated outputs will work fine. The BMS doesn't need anywhere close to 200 mA, that's just the output rating on the included adapter. Let me reiterate though, you must have a supply with isolated outputs, such as a T Rex Fuel Tank, Jr. or a Voodoo Lab Pedal Power II+. Things like the Dunlop brick are just glorified daisy chains in a box and will not offer you much benefit over a simple 1spot.

Alright, so I heard that according to EHX's website, the BMS draws 180 mA. I also read that the included adapter is 9.6 volts. Why would an adapter be 9.6 volts anyways? :eyebrow:

I was reading a thread on the EHX forums that had to do with this (kinda) but maybe it'll reveal some answers. Invalid Link Removed
 
Voltage is often not that precise. If you're within about 10 percent of the required voltage, you'll be in pretty good shape. Truth is it would probably run on 12V and beyond, but there is no reason to push your luck.

Dunlop Brick is worthless for what you need.

BBE Supacharger
Voodoo Labs PP2+
VooDoo Labs ISO5
TRex Fuel Tank JR.

All good choices for your current troubles.
 
Voltage is often not that precise. If you're within about 10 percent of the required voltage, you'll be in pretty good shape. Truth is it would probably run on 12V and beyond, but there is no reason to push your luck.

Dunlop Brick is worthless for what you need.

BBE Supacharger
Voodoo Labs PP2+
VooDoo Labs ISO5
TRex Fuel Tank JR.

All good choices for your current troubles.

Alright, since the Fuel Tank Jr. is a cheap one and has enough power holes, I think I'll go with that one.
 
Another alternative is to use a Gigrig Virtual Battery attached to your diasy chain. It isolates the power on the connector of the daisy chain. I've run a BMS from a daisy chain this way - works fine.
 
Got my bass microsynth just today and i read : "DAISY CHAIN WILL NOT WORK" in the manual... IS THIS TRUE??
First of all, i have THE NEW bass microsynth (true bypass, 9V, white body). I found schematics of the old (late 70's) microsynth, where the single power is converted into +12V & -12V with a NE5554, but this does not apply to the new version, the design is COMPLETELY different. Since i'm an electronics engineer, i thought let's find out on the bench and see whats in the box. My first impression?? This thing is way overpriced for the standard components i found inside (but that can be said about every pedal!!)! If you can copy the PCB & build your own with the same components, you're set with 50$... but let's call it "design & engineering". Anyway, the grounds of the 2 outputs are connected to each other, so thats OK (the external rings are isolated from the ground & body, you need to measure inside), BUT... the PS connector has a reversed polaristion diode ON THE GROUND instead of on the positive (like most circuits have). This means that the input & output ground are 0.7VDC HIGHER than the power ground. This is also the reason why they provide a 9.6V PSU. If you daisy chain this with another microsynth pedal, or a pedal with the same circuitry, it should work (although there will allways be a slight DC difference in between the pedals), but if you daisy chain this with for example a BOSS pedal... you might fry the diode or even worse other opamps inside. So the verdict goes : IT IS NOT DAISY CHAIN COMPATIBLE. Is this useful ? probably not to the musician, but they can sell an extra adapter for each pedal! And for those who wrote that it consumes 180mA... this would be for the old version, mine took only 4mA (no signal injected) with LED on. Then again, if they daisy chained it with other pedals, it might explain the higher current, because you force the other pedals to the same potential... putting stress on the diode & output opamp, something should get hot inside and you should hear it when playing. And thinking that there are pedals with AC adapters or those that run on 12VDC and 18VDC (T-REX, DOD,...). So ISOLATED power supplies are the best option, but instead of paying +200$ for a Voodoolab pedal power, i'm thinking fo building my own flightcase with integrated (isolated) power supply, it isn't so hard to do (start with 2 12V/1A transformers with 2 or 4 secondaries, regulated on 9V & 12V for each output and you're done). I prefer the good "old school" power supplies instead of those miniature switching PSU's with their HF noise, and always dying on the scene!!