There certainly is a minimum threshold for the bass quality, but I think I've gotten more bang for the buck by investing in the amp over the bass.
If the bass has no clarity in the notes and doesn't "ring"/sustain on its own, it's tough to get a good bass sound. Over my history, I've tended to play a lot of FrankenFender Precision basses, and I make a lot of changes to improve playabilty, sound, and looks.
YMMV, to each their own, etc. But this has been my experience.
-- Arte K.
If the bass has no clarity in the notes and doesn't "ring"/sustain on its own, it's tough to get a good bass sound. Over my history, I've tended to play a lot of FrankenFender Precision basses, and I make a lot of changes to improve playabilty, sound, and looks.
- Warmoth bodies
I use these mostly to getting a particular non-standard color, not because I think they have a huge impact on the sound. For example, I built a mocha brown P-bass because it was cheaper than finding an actual seventies P-bass in mocha brown. I also bought a sea-foam Warmoth P-bass body that was in their "specials" because it had a deeper green (almost turquoise) color than any other I'd seen. - Fender Japan vintage reissue necks
I really prefer the vintage 7.5-inch radius Fender vintage bass necks over the flatter radiuses in newer basses and I've had great luck in the quality of the Fender Japan products. - Bartolini P-bass pickups
I really like the punch I get out of these. Granted, they probably don't sound "vintage Fender" but I like what my basses sound like with these pickups in them. - Gotoh B201 bass bridges
I admit I fell into the "religion" of swapping out the original bridges early on and never really re-evaluated. These are drop-in replacements and they're only fifty bucks, so I always made this change. It definitely changes the playability, but I'm not sure it's as huge a difference in tone, sound, or sustain as I thought before. After reading the thread on keeping the vintage Fender bridges, I'm tempted to swap one back in on my "flat-wound" P-bass to see if it makes a huge difference.
- 70's Peavey 1x15 combos and head/cab (15s) (muddy and underpowered, using junky P-bass copies, a Fender Mustang bass with flats, a Hohner Steinberger copy, etc.)
- Ampeg V4B with a 2x15 Peavey cab retrofitted with JBLs (monstrous in tone, weight, and size, using the Hohner Steinberger copy, A Fender Japan 75 Reissue bass)
- Fender 300W bass combo amp (OK tone, still a bit heavy for the amount of power I got, playing the 75 Reissue Jazz)
- Fender small/practice bass combo amps through the years (I really liked their tone (still have one), but the upright bass impedance matching issue came into play.)
- SWR SM-500 heads with Hartke 4x10 cabs and Avatar 2x12 and 2x10 cabs (too hi-fi, always struggled to get the right combination of warmth and clarity (ended up with a SansAmp preamp unit), but tons of power), playing the Fender Reissue Jazz, and then various forms of the Fender Precision bass, some acoustic and electric upright basses.
- MarkBass MicroBass 1x8, MiniBass 2x8, and CMD-121P 1x12 combo amps (Between the three of these, my power/portability needs for the kinds of gigs I do are met, and I do love the power/punch/clarity of these amps.) Playing Fender Precisions and electric and acoustic electric upright basses.
YMMV, to each their own, etc. But this has been my experience.
-- Arte K.