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Best Bass for Metal?

Well here's the thing. MIM's and MIA"s really aren't the same. MIM Jazz bass's (to me) have chunkier necks. The sound is not as distinct and the tone controls are wonky. Playing an MIM always demanded more work and allowed less fluidity. Felt good to slap cause it feels like a slab of wood.

To me.

The MIA (American Standard) has a sleeker neck (as well as graphite truss rods) and smoother frets. Better tuners(big deal). The finish is amazing. The rosewood fingerboard sustains forever. The pickups (CS-60s) are incredible. The tone variations are limitless.

To me.

Now can I turn a MIM into something that rivals my MIA?

Probably.

Change the pickups and all the electronics.
Change the neck.
probably a little work to the body shape and a refinishing. Then I could get that artic blue..

So... What were we talking about?
With all due respect to Jazz basses, they are a more complicated instrument by design than a Precision, even if only slightly so. I'm not trying to start the expensive vs cheap bass argument, but I'm talking Precisions, which is what the op is talking about, and I feel that by design a once you hit a certain level of quality in a P, you're just throwing money away by exceeding that price. Body color aside, and any necessary fret work included in a proper set-up, the only thing separating a Mexican and an American Standard P is upgraded hardware and pickups, a thinner finish and perhaps a better set-up stock. Is all that really worth $800 more when you can purchase the same hardware and electronics/pickup upgrades for $400 or less? Does the $800 really make a P feel/sound more P than a P? IT'S STILL A P BASS. Not saying you should necessarily stop at the MIM level, but over 1K for a P is just silly imo.
 
So not true!:sour:

If you have a $1500 budget, try as many Fender American Standards as you can ands pick the best one. :thumbsup: I.M.H.O. of course!

Marc
That line of thought goes for any bass at any price level though, there are always gems/stinkers for each and every model. I'm certain you can find a gem of lower priced model of P that will blow the doors off a run-of-the-mill American Standard, and of course vice versa.
 
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Just kidding. Well, sort of.
I'm trying to decide what bass to get. I can't decide whether I want to go 4 or 5 string, so suggest both. I want passive electronics, and I like a warmer sound. Right now looking at the American Deluxe or Standard precision basses, but want other options. 1.5k price range (willing to go used). I play mainly grunge/punk/hard rock, but also will use it for other genres, especially jazz or motown.

If I should clarify more, let me know.
What kind of bass tones in metal do you like? Post some clips, man.
 
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That line of thought goes for any bass at any price level though, there are always gems/stinkers for each and every model. I'm certain you can find a gem of lower priced model of P that will blow the doors off a run-of-the-mill American Standard, and of course vice versa.

I respect your opinion but I maintain walking into a ' top line' establishment (e.g. Elderly / Chicago Music Exchange) and trying the goods until you find the right bass.. I mean the right Fender American Precision ;)

All kidding aside, If I was to only play metal, I would seriously consider Spector/ Warwick active type bass.

Marc
 
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Just kidding. Well, sort of.
I'm trying to decide what bass to get. I can't decide whether I want to go 4 or 5 string, so suggest both. I want passive electronics, and I like a warmer sound. Right now looking at the American Deluxe or Standard precision basses, but want other options. 1.5k price range (willing to go used). I play mainly grunge/punk/hard rock, but also will use it for other genres, especially jazz or motown.

If I should clarify more, let me know.

Theee bass for metal!!!!
Custom Metal 4 String Fretless Electric Bass Guitar Handmade in USA Right Handed | eBay
 
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With all due respect to Jazz basses, they are a more complicated instrument by design than a Precision, even if only slightly so. I'm not trying to start the expensive vs cheap bass argument, but I'm talking Precisions, which is what the op is talking about, and I feel that by design a once you hit a certain level of quality in a P, you're just throwing money away by exceeding that price. Body color aside, and any necessary fret work included in a proper set-up, the only thing separating a Mexican and an American Standard P is upgraded hardware and pickups, a thinner finish and perhaps a better set-up stock. Is all that really worth $800 more when you can purchase the same hardware and electronics/pickup upgrades for $400 or less? Does the $800 really make a P feel/sound more P than a P? IT'S STILL A P BASS. Not saying you should necessarily stop at the MIM level, but over 1K for a P is just silly imo.

Your forgetting the most important part.

The neck.

They probably exist but I haven't found a MIM with a neck that rivals a MIA.
The MIM necks do not feel as smooth as a MIA. Whether your talking Jazz or Precision.

To modify a MIM to those standards would really not be cost effective. A good MIA neck could(and does) run as high as $750. ON EBAY!!

That combined with the $400 worth of upgrades you calculated + the initial cost of the MIM bass to begin with would likely run you over the 2k mark. (Don't forget about labor)

MIA P-bass's are actually about $!00 or so less than jazz's.

Still every artic blue precision I have found so far is MIM. I will continue to browse.

Wait... I don't have a cat.
 
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With all due respect to Jazz basses, they are a more complicated instrument by design than a Precision, even if only slightly so. I'm not trying to start the expensive vs cheap bass argument, but I'm talking Precisions, which is what the op is talking about, and I feel that by design a once you hit a certain level of quality in a P, you're just throwing money away by exceeding that price. Body color aside, and any necessary fret work included in a proper set-up, the only thing separating a Mexican and an American Standard P is upgraded hardware and pickups, a thinner finish and perhaps a better set-up stock. Is all that really worth $800 more when you can purchase the same hardware and electronics/pickup upgrades for $400 or less? Does the $800 really make a P feel/sound more P than a P? IT'S STILL A P BASS. Not saying you should necessarily stop at the MIM level, but over 1K for a P is just silly imo.

You didn't mention the graphite reinforcement bars that aid stability, the rolled fingerboard edges and non laminate wood selection. Also, the truss rod feature fully accessible at the heel and completely different neck shapes (despite spec dimensions);)
 
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Your forgetting the most important part.

The neck.

They probably exist but I haven't found a MIM with a neck that rivals a MIA.
The MIM necks do not feel as smooth as a MIA. Whether your talking Jazz or Precision.

To modify a MIM to those standards would really not be cost effective. A good MIA neck could(and does) run as high as $750. ON EBAY!!

That combined with the $400 worth of upgrades you calculated + the initial cost of the MIM bass to begin with would likely run you over the 2k mark. (Don't forget about labor)

MIA P-bass's are actually about $!00 or so less than jazz's.

Still every artic blue precision I have found so far is MIM. I will continue to browse.

Wait... I don't have a cat.
All respect to the right to differ in opinion, 2k is a joke, a hilarious one. I'm also quite amused that the necks are "smoother". $800 smoother? As for a $750 neck, I'm well aware of what people are willing to pay for that magical American pixie dust, but I just don't believe in magic. Look, there is nothing wrong with dropping a ton of $ on the simplest yet most effective electric bass design ever, but lets call a spade a spade here, you do it because you can, for the "bragging rights" so to speak, which is perfectly fine.
 
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You didn't mention the graphite reinforcement bars that aid stability, the rolled fingerboard edges and non laminate wood selection. Also, the truss rod feature fully accessible at the heel and completely different neck shapes (despite spec dimensions);)
ROLLED FRETBOARD EDGES!? You mean they wear the neck in for me?! That changes EVERYTHING, please, please take my money Fender!
 
All respect to the right to differ in opinion, 2k is a joke, a hilarious one. I'm also quite amused that the necks are "smoother". $800 smoother? As for a $750 neck, I'm well aware of what people are willing to pay for that magical American pixie dust, but I just don't believe in magic. Look, there is nothing wrong with dropping a ton of $ on the simplest yet most effective electric bass design ever, but lets call a spade a spade here, you do it because you can, for the "bragging rights" so to speak, which is perfectly fine.

I'm not bragging. I don't own a Fodera or an Alembic. I have owned MIMs. Just couldn't get them to do what I wanted them to do. The MIA does. I see an artic blue MIM P Bass for sale and I want it. Playability wards me off. The MIM is $550. Why would I pay for a bass that doesn't play right for me? $1399 for my American Standard Jazz. It's a tool. It does what I want. I will pay that when I pick out my P bass.

Listen... what was that?
 
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i use the 83 g&l L2000 for everything, however it does excel at aggro music with a sweet warm tone when using roundwounds
when the L2000 needs new strings i use the 2011 sb-2 which is equally warm and punchy with la bella flatwounds
therefore, while not p basses technically, that's how they fit in sonically
 
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ROLLED FRETBOARD EDGES!? You mean they wear the neck in for me?! That changes EVERYTHING, please, please take my money Fender!

Among the other things I mentioned, yes. It's not so much to approximate a worn in feel as it is to accomodate comfort. Most well respected companies add at least a slight bevel to the edge of the fingerboard on their upper tier models. Is this a new concept for you?
 
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i use the 83 g&l L2000 for everything, however it does excel at aggro music with a sweet warm tone when using roundwounds
when the L2000 needs new strings i use the 2011 sb-2 which is equally warm and punchy with la bella flatwounds
therefore, while not p basses technically, that's how they fit in sonically

Those are both awesome bass's I've played a few of them. I liked the JB-2 a lot. But L2000 are really cool.
 
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All respect to the right to differ in opinion, 2k is a joke, a hilarious one. I'm also quite amused that the necks are "smoother". $800 smoother? As for a $750 neck, I'm well aware of what people are willing to pay for that magical American pixie dust, but I just don't believe in magic. Look, there is nothing wrong with dropping a ton of $ on the simplest yet most effective electric bass design ever, but lets call a spade a spade here, you do it because you can, for the "bragging rights" so to speak, which is perfectly fine.

Also, it's not pixie dust. It is the spec of a given instrument. You played a MIM once and cast a net of judgement of the whole brand based on that. Congrats.
 
What kind of bass tones in metal do you like? Post some clips, man.

I completely agree here. Without knowing what tone you're after, it's hard to pinpoint specific instruments. OP says he wants to play grunge/punk/hard rock. That leaves a LOT of room for interpretation. Personally, I'd look at a solid PJ configuration based on punk and grunge...but getting into hard rock is the kicker because there's so much variety out there.

My best suggestion would be a G&L L-2000/2500 (or even the Tribute models), whichever you prefer between 4 or 5-string. Does all of them great and then some!
 
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Just kidding. Well, sort of.
I'm trying to decide what bass to get. I can't decide whether I want to go 4 or 5 string, so suggest both. I want passive electronics, and I like a warmer sound. Right now looking at the American Deluxe or Standard precision basses, but want other options. 1.5k price range (willing to go used). I play mainly grunge/punk/hard rock, but also will use it for other genres, especially jazz or motown.

If I should clarify more, let me know.
Hmm...well as long as you got FUZZ you should be fine. ;)
 
Among the other things I mentioned, yes. It's not so much to approximate a worn in feel as it is to accomodate comfort. Most well respected companies add at least a slight bevel to the edge of the fingerboard on their upper tier models. Is this a new concept for you?
Also, it's not pixie dust. It is the spec of a given instrument. You played a MIM once and cast a net of judgement of the whole brand based on that. Congrats.
I think you're making just as rash a judgement about me as you believe I'm making about you're beloved MIA, but good for you if you need to at least attempt to belittle my intelligence and experience to make you feel better about your investments. After all, what is an internet discussion without petty insults? Breathe easy champ, count to ten, I want dare stress you further.
 
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I think you're making just as rash a judgement about me as you believe I'm making about you're beloved MIA, but good for you if you need to at least attempt to belittle my intelligence and experience to make you feel better about your investments. After all, what is an internet discussion without petty insults? Breathe easy champ, count to ten, I want dare stress you further.

No sweat off my back. I don't have an axe to grind.
 
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