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Best Basses
- Thread starter Bass Boy J
- Start date
Put a series parallel switch in that Squier and its almost as good as getting both those basses in one. I love the color on that P bass though, I just wish they were available in Canada
If drive, grab your musician buddies and make a trip out of it, try everything you find, pack lunches and cool aid if need be. If you need your mom/dad/brother/sister to drive pay for gas and make a plan.
So many good ones out there, with the variety of music you will play, I'd go for a dual-humbucker 5-string. I'm partial to G&L and their import Tribute line, but there are many many decent quality, affordable imported instruments out there.
The answer to the original question of which is the most versatile is almost certainly the Fender Deluxe PJ. Sharp fret edges are unfortunate buy can be fixed before you buy. For some reason that seems to be a deal-breaker, though.
Frankly it's not a particularly impressive selection, but I guess that's what there is at a GC in a smaller city. I'm really surprised they don't have a single Yamaha.
I think if you're willing to consider a 5-string, I'd go with the ESP. If it has a passive option that's probably your best bet in terms of versatility, but you won't ever get it to really sound quite like a P, but generally only Ps or PJs can do that anyway. If you're not interested in a 5-string (they aren't for everybody), then one of the Schecters is probably your next best bet. Failing that, probably the Ibanez SR300. As people have said, though, best to go there and try these things out.
Frankly it's not a particularly impressive selection, but I guess that's what there is at a GC in a smaller city. I'm really surprised they don't have a single Yamaha.
I think if you're willing to consider a 5-string, I'd go with the ESP. If it has a passive option that's probably your best bet in terms of versatility, but you won't ever get it to really sound quite like a P, but generally only Ps or PJs can do that anyway. If you're not interested in a 5-string (they aren't for everybody), then one of the Schecters is probably your next best bet. Failing that, probably the Ibanez SR300. As people have said, though, best to go there and try these things out.
That orange Mezzo is dope. Get that.
But, also, Yamahas are a reliably great choice for anyone looking for value and versatility.
Also, I think that Player P looks like a friend for life, decent value by Fender standards,, and i think those have a more modern neck profile that makes them kind of special.
But, also, Yamahas are a reliably great choice for anyone looking for value and versatility.
Also, I think that Player P looks like a friend for life, decent value by Fender standards,, and i think those have a more modern neck profile that makes them kind of special.
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I like passive basses and I'd pick either the fender or the squier pj.
If I were after versatility however, I'd get an active bass. I've not tried all of the active basses on the list, but tried the shecter omen, and loved it. Also consider the ltd surveyor.
If I were after versatility however, I'd get an active bass. I've not tried all of the active basses on the list, but tried the shecter omen, and loved it. Also consider the ltd surveyor.
Quoted for emphasis. There's a lot of collective wisdom on Talkbass for basses at many price points. Knowing your budget will get you more helpful replies.
That can happen to any bass, regardless of price. And, as others have pointed out, it's easily fixed. I had this happened to a Roscoe 4-string a few years ago after I had owned it for a while. Changes is weather or even the smallest of fretboard shrinkage can result in fret sprouts (not to be confused with Brussels Sprouts, but almost as unappealing.
) It's a common problem that luthiers fix all the time.As a couple of others have said, you should try a bunch of instruments and go with what feels best to you.
What are you playing now? And what do you like or not like about it?
Sterling S.U.B. 5 and a Precision Bass 4 variant of some sort like the Fender PJ. Those should cover you real well for your entry into the world of Bass. Have Fun!
Looks about what my son was doing in high school. I bought him a MIM Jazz when he was in middle school (1996) all that experience landed him a job in the Marines as a bassist. He’s currently a Gunnery Sergeant and will be retiring in 4 years with a pension and healthcare for life.
As for his JB, when he was 13 he had no issues with the size, and he still plays it today.
Anyway, congrats on making a position in those bands. Make sure you keep working on your reading skills. You will find that experience invaluable as a pro.
As was mentioned, 4 strings or 5 is a major consideration, and depends on a number of factors from your current skillset to hand size, finger length etc. Your instructor may also have a preference, and if he does it will likely be for four strings in the name of simplicity and consistency.
Personally, I say if you can make your way around on a 5-string comfortably, go for the fiver; the extra four notes in one position on the fretboard make more technical riffs that much easier, as you'll have much less sliding around to do, and when you don't need the lower notes of the B-string, you can shift your hand up five frets and take advantage of closer spacing for more comfort. A five-string bass even at your relatively low pricepoint is an instrument you are unlikely ever to outgrow, physically or musically. So, that ESP LTD B205SM really stood out to me personally as what I'd go for in your position. The toaster-top with actives has become a mainstay of modern jazz, just keep at least one extra fresh battery in your case at all times.
However, I'm not going to be your bass teacher, and opinions on extended-range basses (basically anything more than 4 strings) vary widely even in the bass world. Simply put, four strings is seen as "standard"; most of the best-known greats of the instrument, real trailblazers from Jamerson and Graham to Jaco and Miller, all did what they did on four strings. So to say four strings "holds you back" in any significant sense is a very fraught statement. If you show up with four strings and look uncomfortable playing them, the teacher will presume you are the "problem", and will work with you to get familiar with the instrument. If you show up with five strings and look uncomfortable playing them, the teacher is much more likely to point to the instrument as the "problem", and suggest you trade down to a four-string. In the extreme, I've personally seen at least one teacher refuse to work with a student further on their technique until they brought a "suitable" instrument to practice, and it was a case of the student bringing an expensive and "overcomplicated" instrument that the instructor felt was getting in the way of the student learning to play "properly"*.
So in summary I don't think it's us you need to ask; you are going to have a teacher in your classes, and in your larger schools/music programs you'll commonly end up with an intersection between the director of your ensemble and an instrument specialist that will work with you more directly. Get in touch with them, face to face if you can, and ask them straight-up what their preference would be for your instrument while under their instruction; four or five strings, active or passive.
If they have no personal problem working with you on an active fiver, I'd get that ESP. If they would prefer you stick to four strings, then whether they mind active electronics or not, I think that Fender Special Edition Deluxe PJ is the best buy in a four-banger of your available options. The combination of the beefy P pickup with the extra bite, burp and zing of a Jazz bridge pickup is going to be extremely flexible within the genres you're interested in, especially classic eras of rock and jazz and pretty much anything pop-y; you can get the extra high-end for more modern styles like modern metal and jazz with a little work on an EQ, either the amp's EQ or a preamp or EQ pedal.
* In my case it was an F-attachment or "trigger" trombone, which has a rotary valve at the left thumb to lower the pitch by a fourth without going all the way out to sixth position on the slide. Extremely common feature on 'bones these days and you won't find many serious players who don't have one, but the instructor considered that "cheating" in a beginner class where the rest of the section had much less expensive "pea-shooters" without the rotary valve, and proceeded to use any excuse to avoid putting that kid in first chair in the section. Until the kid borrowed a pea shooter from another student and totally blew away the first-chair at the next section ranking. So, case in point, if you can play five, buy five, but if you get the wrong instructor you may have to prove you can play four before you'll be taken seriously with five.
For the most versatility, look for a P/J bass with an active preamp that can be bypassed. I didn't see one in that list, however, so probably the Ibanez SR.
As previously stated - the best thing to do is go play a bunch of basses and see what gels. Instrument feel is very important.
You never said what your budget is. That's a huge factor.
Things like sharp frets are easily fixed with a proper instrument set-up. Which Guitar Center is famous for not doing (I hate Guitar Center and encourage you to find another local music shop).
Of the instruments that are listed on that site, there's nothing "awful". If you want something versatile, I'd stay away from the Music Man variants. They are fine instruments, but Music Man's have a very distinctive tone.
That Yamaha RBX is probably the biggest bargain of the bunch.
If it was me, I'd be trying to track down a Yamaha BB434. Great, flexible instruments for not a lot of cash ($500 shipped, new). That thing can take you FAR down the road as a player.
You never said what your budget is. That's a huge factor.
Things like sharp frets are easily fixed with a proper instrument set-up. Which Guitar Center is famous for not doing (I hate Guitar Center and encourage you to find another local music shop).
Of the instruments that are listed on that site, there's nothing "awful". If you want something versatile, I'd stay away from the Music Man variants. They are fine instruments, but Music Man's have a very distinctive tone.
That Yamaha RBX is probably the biggest bargain of the bunch.
If it was me, I'd be trying to track down a Yamaha BB434. Great, flexible instruments for not a lot of cash ($500 shipped, new). That thing can take you FAR down the road as a player.
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How about you check out facebook marketplace for some used basses? But I'd recommend you wait for guitar center to open back up so that you can walk in there and try all the basses they have to get a feel of what you might be best for you.
Well going on your original post, and that selection at your GC, I'd suggest trying out the Schecter Stiletto Stealth 4, the Ibanez SR300E and if you're going 5 string the ESP LTD B-205SM. Each will have a different feel and tone capability with the Schecter probably the widest range of tones. Of course basic black can fit in any of the groups as far as look too, some of those crazy Ibanez colors, maybe not so much.
And don't over think it! Your tastes will very likely be changing and in the future you can get another or replacement bass that fits that. Right now, try them, see what feels, looks, and sounds good to you and get to playing.
And don't over think it! Your tastes will very likely be changing and in the future you can get another or replacement bass that fits that. Right now, try them, see what feels, looks, and sounds good to you and get to playing.
Part of learning your instrument is how to care for and maintain it. There are great videos that show you how to setup your bass properly. How to file and crown frets. Set intonation. Set pickup height. With a little time and effort you can make a modest instrument play very well. Any bass can have sharp frets when temperature changes drastically. The repair is relatively easy to perform.
I'll have to agree. Sharp fret ends (or, "Fret Sprout") is an environmental thing. The wood dries out from heat and lack of humidity (or, cold and lack of humidity), and it shrinks away from the frets. I've lived here in Las Vegas for over 30 years, and with the exception of one or two instruments that I bought here - and a couple of basses with synthetic fretboards and aluminum necks - Every instrument I own developed fret sprout shortly after it got here. It's not a big thing; just get the fret ends "dressed" after the wood stops shrinking. Any competent guitar tech can do it in his sleep, and it doesn't cost much. The bass will play nicely, and you'll never have to have it done again. I have a new bass sitting out on a stand right now that's developing fret sprout. I'll wait about 3 more weeks for it to stop shrinking, then I'll get the frets dressed. That will be that; and then I can play the snot out of my new Stingray Special 4 HH... As for the bass you should buy? Much as I don't like 5-stringers; PJs; or Jazz basses, I'm afraid I'll have to say - get a 5-string Jazz or a PJ. I'm an Old Fart, and I like to play Old Fart music on 4-string basses. You aren't, and you probably won't play that kind of music. So get a 5-er; and if it was me? I think I'd get the PJ...
Band and choir tunes tend to be in flat keys. Since Eb is the second flat, it really helps to have that low note available to you. I’d suggest at least looking at a five string bass.
