Actually based on driver size with everything else equal, the 10 should have a slightly wider dispersion pattern.
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Best cab configuration
- Thread starter GerardoRicc
- Start date
Actually based on driver size with everything else equal, the 10 should have a slightly wider dispersion pattern.
And also extended low end response
combined with the trade off of poor efficience and shy mids,
Its not possible to keep everything else equal with different driver size
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I think you know what I meant...feel free to rephrase with a more accurate statement
.
Well, there is more to it the just the speaker diameter. There is also extrusion, how far the speaker moves in and out. Personally, even though most of the time I’m playing through all tens, and you might be surprised at how much low end you get, I understand two 2-10s an 2-12s is a very nice combination.
I saw the photo with the Bugera, I was interested when I saw it the first time.
Is it good? I mean, I know that 2000 watts is total BS because it's peak but I think the RMS rating wouldn't be super low.
That's the problem, TC doesn't list anything so I can't even see the frequency response.
Is this for backline only? i.e. are you running through the PA for the Front Of House sound? Because you won't need all that heat if you are just onstage monitoring for a medium size gig, fact you might mess up the stage sound. I use one 1x15, I know other guys use a 2x10, it's plenty
IMO I quite liked TC amps (I had the Staccato and RH750, long since replaced by Aguilar) but I never found a TC cab that sounded as good as the cabs I was already using.
Again, just my opinion, but I think there are better cabs to be had, like Bergantino, Vanderkley, TKS, Barefaced and even some Markbass cabs. There used to be a rule of thumb in Hi-fi that you spent 50% of your budget on the speakers. IMO the cabs are also that important in bass rigs.
IMO Bugera is not a company that gives me a positive feeling. I see their headline ratings and I don't believe them, so I don't believe anything else about them. If a company makes good products and dresses them up in this kind of marketing I know they are not for me and I'll steer clear of them.
+1 to @chris_b ’s comment.
Your main cab is an important decision; and generally you get what you pay for. So, first step should be to figure out your budget, then do a bit more reading in this forum. The TB Classified is your friend. Most sellers on TB with multiple ratings are reliable.
Back to the initial Q, a good 212 is an excellent place to start. There are many ways to roll, but a rig with matching 212 + 112 can give you MANY options for differing gig needs. It is generally important to match the cabs, usually 4 ohm 212 with an 8 ohm 112, such that the drivers get equal power when stacked.
And, then, you need an amp capable of driving that stack. Many solutions there, but Class D power amps have gotten pretty inexpensive. And, there are many preamps available. So, that’s one option. Or, find a Genz Benz Shuttle 12.0 with the dual output sections. Etc etc.
The cabs I would explore, if starting from scratch, are the Bergantino 212’s, the Audiokinesis 212, the Barefaced 212, or the Fearless 212 at the high end; and probably the GK neo 212 at the lower end. Just my $0.019. GL
Your main cab is an important decision; and generally you get what you pay for. So, first step should be to figure out your budget, then do a bit more reading in this forum. The TB Classified is your friend. Most sellers on TB with multiple ratings are reliable.
Back to the initial Q, a good 212 is an excellent place to start. There are many ways to roll, but a rig with matching 212 + 112 can give you MANY options for differing gig needs. It is generally important to match the cabs, usually 4 ohm 212 with an 8 ohm 112, such that the drivers get equal power when stacked.
And, then, you need an amp capable of driving that stack. Many solutions there, but Class D power amps have gotten pretty inexpensive. And, there are many preamps available. So, that’s one option. Or, find a Genz Benz Shuttle 12.0 with the dual output sections. Etc etc.
The cabs I would explore, if starting from scratch, are the Bergantino 212’s, the Audiokinesis 212, the Barefaced 212, or the Fearless 212 at the high end; and probably the GK neo 212 at the lower end. Just my $0.019. GL
JeezyMcNuggles
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Yeah dude. The veyron M was a great little head. It's 500rms, but its loud and clean as hell. Bugera's pre-amps are very transparent. But, they sound very good. And the Veyron amps, are actually built very well. If you have a chance to play on one, you should definately take it. You will be pleasantly surprised. But, these one's aren't exactly cheap. They're about the same price as a lot of brand's 500w class Ds. I had the tube one before that one, and I did think it sounded better, but I exchanged it for the Mosfet version shortly after cause it's cheaper and I'd never have to worry about tube problems down the road.
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Mark Bass amps are typically 4Ω minimum. Whatever cabinet(s) you chose can not violate that rule. A 4Ω 2x10 or 2x12 will work fine with your amp. Anything more would end up blowing the amplifier.
No I intend to use it as a main source for smaller rigs and have it they a PA when doing something bigger.
But still, I need to hear myself.
None of the Cabs you listed are sold kn thomann except for the GK Neo that I hate with passion. Just highs.
One of the main reasons that led me to the TC RS is that it’s ligh and doesn’t cost anything.
MarkBass is not that great and they use carpet for the outside that is a horrible choice. Had many speakers with carpet, every single one of them was either super dirty or straight up ruined.
Also for the same price of the NewYork 121 wich has a single 12” woofer I can get the RS212 wich has 2, so no brainer there.
Then maybe get a coupla 2x10s. You can use one when yiou have pa support and both if not, gives you a 4x10, plenty of bottom end in that
The problem comes in when you rely on stereotypes. As people are trying to help you understand, that will likely do no more than limit you because of how you think things should work.
You could buy a cover.
As far as the no-brainer thing, if it's simply based on a generic opinion of a 12 then yeah, two twelves might be better, But suppose the 1-12 actually sounded better? Until you try them you'll never really know.
Ciao GerardoRicc 
Did you ever play an Ampeg V4B with one or two 810 cabs? (the thing they call "the fridge")
Of course, when you are looking for lightweight stuff, this won' t be your thing.
See above!
Not everybody who thinks "Italian design" and "yellow" thinks "Markbass"
Okay,
I will stop kidding.
Go and try some cabs! Looking at cabs will not help!
Decide with your ears! It won' t help, when I tell you what I like, as long as you don 't hear it!
may the bass be with you
Wise(b)ass
Did you ever play an Ampeg V4B with one or two 810 cabs? (the thing they call "the fridge")
Of course, when you are looking for lightweight stuff, this won' t be your thing.
Sure it will. You just need more speakers.
See above!
Not everybody who thinks "Italian design" and "yellow" thinks "Markbass"
Okay,
I will stop kidding.Go and try some cabs! Looking at cabs will not help!
Decide with your ears! It won' t help, when I tell you what I like, as long as you don 't hear it!
may the bass be with you
Wise(b)ass
I think you know what I meant...feel free to rephrase with a more accurate statement
So let me demonstrate it with a more accurate (more comprehenisble) statement.
Here you are with a normalized response of a 12" driver loaded into a ported cabinet, f3 equals about 70Hz
Any other things beening equal except for driver size which in this case is reduced downwards to about 10" (which also effects the number for Vas). The new normalized response looks like the following chart, note that f3 equals about 52Hz.
That's a very impressing outcome cause in case of any other things beeing equal except driver size a smaller driver diameter corresponds to an extended low end response.
Of course there is a big trade off pending, the smaller driver diameter sucks on efficience which can be clearly noticed with the following chart yellow 12" versus 10" white. Note that all of any other things show equal numbers.
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