Best extension for Rumble 500

[btmpancake]

Okay. But why would the guy at Sweetwater try to sell me this as a better option than the 2x10 if the 2x10 was the right option AND the better sale? IE. More expensive.

Actually the Rumble v3 115 was priced at $299.99 as for the Rumble 210 cab about $349.99 as far as an extension cab is a safe bet to add a R210 cab= 410's+500 watts. BTW-I've use my 210 extension cab along with my R200c 115 with awesome results (killer sound) 'somewhat to what GManfromOZ was saying.

 

[TheTalMan]

Actually the Rumble v3 115 was priced at $299.99 as for the Rumble 210 cab about $349.99 as far as an extension cab is a safe bet to add a R210 cab= 410's+500 watts. BTW-I've use my 210 extension cab along with my R200c 115 with awesome results (killer sound) 'somewhat to what GManfromOZ was saying.

That's what I meant by better sale. It would make them more money.

 

[btmpancake]

That's what I meant by better sale. It would make them more money.

I thought you said the guy at GC recommended the 115 @ post #10 which is cheaper, but there's really no wrong here. All win-win

 

[TheTalMan]

I thought you said the guy at GC recommended the 115 @ post #10 which is cheaper, but there's really no wrong here. All win-win

He did. This is why I'm lead to believe the 115 is a better option. Why recommend it if the 2x10 is more expensive?

 

[btmpancake]

He did. This is why I'm lead to believe the 115 is a better option. Why recommend it if the 2x10 is more expensive?

IDK? But for an xtra $50 I'd match my cab/s as close as possible, but some have had good results using 115 and 210 configurations like I did my 200c w/115 using the R210 extension cab. I guess it it comes down to tastes/ears if monies no issue.
ADDED- I have the R500 head sometimes using 2x210's so I tried the 210 cab with the 200c 115 and oh yeah I can jam that puppy all day long too, I just need some xtra headroom outside.

 

[basslust]

I made a thread a few years ago where I found a quote by Bill Fitzmaurice where he said that the 210 + 115 combo was okay. The main takeaway from the thread for me was that it is possible to design mixed driver setups to work. See this post from agedhorse:

Because it's possible (if the designer understands phase or time domain analysis) to design perfectly complementary 115 + 210 combinations that are not on;y reasonable from a phase response perspective but also from a power handling and sensitivity perspective.

Here's the thread in its entirety:

Bill Fitzmaurice says 210 + 115 setup is okay... Please explain

 

[agedhorse]

In the case of the new Rumble combos, the guy who designed them is a pretty sharp dude... it wouldn't surprise me if he did his homework on that combination as well.

 

[3 Chords]

by far the best bet will be the matching cab, which should be the 2x10.

I've been give a nice Carvin cabinet that needs a 15" speaker will a 4 ohm speaker work as an extension to my Rumble 500 ?

 

[BadExample]

I've been give a nice Carvin cabinet that needs a 15" speaker will a 4 ohm speaker work as an extension to my Rumble 500 ?

I think you'll want 8 ohms in that cab, but read posts 26 and 27 before spending $100 + on a quality 15" 8 ohm that may or may not work well in that cab alone, much less mixed with the rumble.

 

[BadExample]

3 chords, if you want to revive the Carvin as a separate project, one of these might be good:

Low Frequency Drivers

Just call Carvin service and ask which ones work in your cab, and if it can take 4 or 8 Ohm. What cab is it?

If you just want to try it and have a 15" 4 ohm, you can probably unplug the internal speakers in the rumble and run the 4 ohm 15 alone.

If you want to try it at 8 ohms, with the rumble and not unplug the internal speakers, and not willing to buy a good 8 ohm 15" this has as much chance as working as any other "guess and try," and the price is right: Invalid Link Removed (currently on back order). I have the cast version and it is a very good speaker and versatile, but that gets a lot closer to the $100 mark. The $30 version is a bit low in the wattage rating.

 

[ezstep]

Do not skimp and save on your speakers. People do not realize the importance of the speaker to the overall sound. Imagine a few thousand $$ on power amp, stereo receiver, turntable, and then running the whole thing through Radio Shack bookshelf speakers. What's the point? (Not knocking RS - they served a purpose.)

You have the right (and perfect) idea. Just take your amp down to the local music stores and listen to each extension cab yourself, with and/or without your internal 2x10's before purchasing anything.

 

[agedhorse]

Do not use a 4 ohm speaker along with your 210. You will let the magic smoke out.

 

[3 Chords]

Do not use a 4 ohm speaker along with your 210. You will let the magic smoke out.

Thanks for the input 8 ohms it is. The cabinet is a Carvin Model V115

 

[BadExample]

I can't find any info on their website for the V115. Single 15"? Sealed or ported?

 

[3 Chords]

I can't find any info on their website for the V115. Single 15"? Sealed or ported?

Ported out the front Single 15"

 

[BadExample]

Ported makes finding a suitable driver more complex. I'd start with a call to Carvin. I think Joe who hands out the RMA#'s has been there a while and might know the answer if you were to buy one of those Carvin 15's. Very good price with the 25% off!

 

[3 Chords]

Ported makes finding a suitable driver more complex. I'd start with a call to Carvin. I think Joe who hands out the RMA#'s has been there a while and might know the answer if you were to buy one of those Carvin 15's. Very good price with the 25% off!

Thanks a lot. I just got on this site and really appreciate the good advice. I was playing with a Peavey Firebass 700 and the 1820 cabinet. Way too heavy. I've also got a 1966 Vox Buckingham head and Vox cabinet that I didn't want to play out with hence the Fender 500. The Peavey is now for sale.

 

[Lobster11]

Furthermore. Why do we see a bunch of people running a 2x10 and a 115 on cabs? Or 4x10 and 115. Or 1x10 and 1x12?

Because people in music stores and marketers have been (erroneously) telling bass players since the beginning of time that that's what they need: i.e., 15" speakers for lows and 10" speakers for mids and highs. It sounds intuitive, but it simply isn't true for modern bass cabinets. The only time that rule holds is when you are using more than one amp to send the higher frequencies to one or more speakers that are specifically designed to reproduce only mids and highs, and sending the low frequencies to one or more speakers designed specifically to reproduce lows, as in a PA system or a bi-amped bass system designed for this purpose. But modern bass cabinets, whether loaded with 10s, 12s, or 15s, are all designed to be "full range," and there is no general tendency for 15s to sound deeper/lower or 10s to sound bright. There are plenty of bright-sounding 15s and deep-sounding 10s.

 

[agedhorse]

Thanks for the input 8 ohms it is. The cabinet is a Carvin Model V115View attachment 2768800

VERY old model, equipped with XLR speaker connection.

 

[agedhorse]

Because people in music stores and marketers have been (erroneously) telling bass players since the beginning of time that that's what they need: i.e., 15" speakers for lows and 10" speakers for mids and highs. It sounds intuitive, but it simply isn't true for modern bass cabinets. The only time that rule holds is when you are using more than one amp to send the higher frequencies to one or more speakers that are specifically designed to reproduce only mids and highs, and sending the low frequencies to one or more speakers designed specifically to reproduce lows, as in a PA system or a bi-amped bass system designed for this purpose. But modern bass cabinets, whether loaded with 10s, 12s, or 15s, are all designed to be "full range," and there is no general tendency for 15s to sound deeper/lower or 10s to sound bright. There are plenty of bright-sounding 15s and deep-sounding 10s.

Only is a VERY strong word that suggests that it can NEVER work, which is utter BS.

Properly designed speakers of different diameter can in fact work well together and in some instances can be designed to work BETTER than either driver alone in a system. Backwoods simplistic thinking (or lack of thinking) leads the mixed driver police to make erroneous conclusions based on a lack of COMPLETE understanding of the electro-acoustic system.

It depends on working out the math, and verifying the model in an actual acoustic space. Something real engineers are equipped to do, and back up their work with successful products that do not exhibit the horrors predicted by overly simplistic thinking.

Of course there are examples of mixed driver cabinets sounding horrible, but there are plenty of examples of identical driver cabinets sounding equally as horrible. It;s not the mixed driver issue that's responsible for the results.