Sunuva gun. You build and I’ll buy!
DIY projects take way too much time and effort to build and sell unless you're done with it and need to make room for a new project. Shipping is also so expensive it really kills any desire to build something you don't think you'll keep. DIY posts with design objectives, component choices, software models, construction drawings, build photos, some simple audio measurements, and at least a subjective evaluation of tone should give someone enough information to decide if they want to take the plunge given the downside. A good audio demo is like gold but not practical for most DIY folks. I'd love to have Nate Navarro or MDBass do a pro demo on my rig. One can dream...
Here are a few of my personal observations which guide my thinking when I get curious about a build. Comments and discussion with known experts in the field and being willing to learn and test these ideas also helps.
- First, it's a bass guitar cab not a PA cab so design criteria are different. It seems that FOH often rolls off bass guitar under 50 Hz in order to slot the bass right above the kick drum in the mix.
- Bass guitar notes are not sine waves, but consist of a fundamental and a series of overtones. Most of the energy in a note is pretty evenly split between the fundamental and 1st overtone. The low B or low E fundamental is not as important as that 1st overtone in putting out a solid bass tone. Too much fundamental causes rumble which turns to mud.
- The interesting challenge is to select the right drivers and optimize tradeoffs in the enclosure design to get the performance and sound you want. Practical bass cabs for gigging need to be well constructed, solidly braced, properly tuned, and fall within reasonable size and weight limits. Many players have to move their own gear and these days often don't want a single box to weigh more than 50 or 60 lbs. If under 40 lbs then go modular.
- When selecting a driver, the T/S parameters and frequency response drive the design and define its limits. Decent modelling software should show you what your power vs frequency looks like and when you can expect to reach Xmax as frequency drops.
- For a ported enclosure, a driver with Qts between 0.30 - 0.35 seems to be optimum. Adjusting enclosure volume, port cross section, and port length are handles to optimize the power handling and frequency response curve. Graphical inspection is useful to dial it in. An oversized box will give a big low end but power handling suffers and it may lack focus. An undersized box may not have enough low end or have an exaggerated hump around 120 Hz that sounds boomy. One thing that has been pointed out to me is that giving up some deep bass below 50 Hz in exchange for more power in that critical 50 - 100 range gives a more solid and defined bass response.