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Best glue to use for glueing new nut?

#41
Hey guys,

I finally managed to get around to finishing this off as my new strings arrived in the mail today – I think it doesn't look too shabby :p

6030846170_4aee41e36f_b.jpg

6030845574_8a370805cb_b.jpg

6030845126_a99abc99a4_b.jpg


I know, it's not the most flash looking thing in the world, but I'll string her up later and we should be back in business :bassist:
 
#43
If it fits snug you don't need glue at all. The string tension will keep it in place unless you play bass like Pete Townsend.That 1 or 2 dots of glue will not make a difference in tone or sustain one iota.If it's good and flat across the bottom you'll get all the contact you need.If you need to file the slots deeper leave the other 3 strings on it and file away.
 
#44
DLEE said:
If it fits snug you don't need glue at all. The string tension will keep it in slots deeper leave the other 3 strings on it and file away.
Click to expand...
You should have looked at the photos at the start of the post. There is no slot- its the type of design where the nut is glued to the end of the board.
To the poster that said "don't sand the end of the board, this dimension needs to be perfect or the intonation will be off", not an exact quote, I say BS. Do you have any idea how out of tune a bass is at the first position? You can move the nut quite a bit and it will have no noticeable difference on tuning or intonation. Every seen a music man nut?
 
#45
dmusic148 said:
You should have looked at the photos at the start of the post. There is no slot- its the type of design where the nut is glued to the end of the board.
To the poster that said "don't sand the end of the board, this dimension needs to be perfect or the intonation will be off", not an exact quote, I say BS. Do you have any idea how out of tune a bass is at the first position? You can move the nut quite a bit and it will have no noticeable difference on tuning or intonation. Every seen a music man nut?
Click to expand...

If the dimension is changed it changes the scale length. Consider this. The Buzz Feiten system moves the nut position by a couple of thousandths of an inch. The effect on intonation is major and becomes more so as the strings are fretted higher on the neck. Much more than a couple of thousandths and the effect is so severe as to create an instrument that will never play in tune. Ever try to remove just a thousandth or two from a piece of wood and keep everything plumb and dead flat? That is a couple of swipes with some 220 grit. An unpracticed hand will remove far more. The photos from the original post show a distinct curve to the edge.
 
#46
dmusic148 said:
You should have looked at the photos at the start of the post. There is no slot- its the type of design where the nut is glued to the end of the board.
To the poster that said "don't sand the end of the board, this dimension needs to be perfect or the intonation will be off", not an exact quote, I say BS. Do you have any idea how out of tune a bass is at the first position? You can move the nut quite a bit and it will have no noticeable difference on tuning or intonation. Every seen a music man nut?
Click to expand...

The mm nuts I have seen lately are compensated. Their supposed to be like that. Sand the nut too much you throw it away and start again. Sand the board too much you might as well scrap the bass. It will rattle n buzz forever and then you'll really have to work on a new totally raw nut to try n get it right. Can't tell ya how I know this...... But we all learn one way or the other. Just trying to help avoid pitfalls is all.

Yep I missed those on my phone......too late...
 
#47
aussiebasshero said:
Hey guys,

I finally managed to get around to finishing this off as my new strings arrived in the mail today – I think it doesn't look too shabby :p



6030845126_a99abc99a4_b.jpg


I know, it's not the most flash looking thing in the world, but I'll string her up later and we should be back in business :bassist:
Click to expand...
err, that'll get you by until you get it fixed, but that's not even close to fitting how it should.

both of the flat surfaces should actually be flat against the nut, and neither of those are. especially the end of the fretboard, if the nut isn't hard against that flat, the intonation will be off.

don't be surprised if it pops off while you're playing it (unless you used a bunch of epoxy or something, in which case, don't be surprised when fixing it properly turns into an ordeal).
 
#48
JLS said:
Hey, do it however you want--drag it on the sidewalk.
Click to expand...

WRONG. That will take way too long and you will risk getting a ticket for vandalism if the plastic from the nut leaves marks on the sidewalk.

What you need to do is duct tape some vice grips to the end of a stick. Then find a friend with a car who can take you out onto the interstate. You will want to reach a speed around 75 - 80 mph in the car. Put the nut into the vice grips with the flat side facing out along the end of the stick. Then roll down the window and just lightly TAP the stick against the pavement below. DO NOT hold it down against the asphalt. Just give it a few taps and then check it. If it's not grinding it down cleanly, ask your friend to drive faster.
 
#49
walterw said:
err, that'll get you by until you get it fixed, but that's not even close to fitting how it should.

both of the flat surfaces should actually be flat against the nut, and neither of those are. especially the end of the fretboard, if the nut isn't hard against that flat, the intonation will be off.

don't be surprised if it pops off while you're playing it (unless you used a bunch of epoxy or something, in which case, don't be surprised when fixing it properly turns into an ordeal).
Click to expand...

I just restrung her with Chromes; intonation is pretty much bang on, no change since the last nut. Happy days! :bassist:
 
#51
aussiebasshero said:
I just restrung her with Chromes; intonation is pretty much bang on, no change since the last nut. Happy days! :bassist:
Click to expand...

You did good! That job looks great to me. I can't believe all the basement luthiers here pulling out all their .001" rules like they think you are restoring a Ritter or something!

Hey, guys! It's like a $50 bass, Dudes! And he's got it looking great and playing again! Can you dig it? I love it!
 
#52
Can one use old strings as nut files?

I'm picturing getting the nut glued into place then running old strings back and forth through the slots in a sawing motion to deepen the slots or get burrs out of them.
 
#53
we're being fussy because the nut installation makes such a huge difference in how it plays, from tuning stability to ease of fretting to intonation.

a well-done nut install will make that $50 bass play better than when it was new, and a poorly-done nut will make a $1000 bass play like a $50 bass, and the difference is measured in thousandths of an inch!

i've had so many instruments with high nut slots turned in to me with "yeah, it plays great, i just need...", and had the owners be blown away by the difference when they got it back and it actually did "play great", and the main difference was the fit and filing of the nut.
 
#54
bassbenj said:
You did good! That job looks great to me. I can't believe all the basement luthiers here pulling out all their .001" rules like they think you are restoring a Ritter or something!

Hey, guys! It's like a $50 bass, Dudes! And he's got it looking great and playing again! Can you dig it? I love it!
Click to expand...

Thanks man :)

Here are a few pics of her restrung with the Chromes which are just starting to break in now :hyper:

6048987554_bf8e293c5b_b.jpg

6048466675_0857df2d26_b.jpg

6048467441_97fd1f3d93_b.jpg


And here is what the old nut used to look like for comparison's sake:

6048467139_c58d302567_b.jpg
 
#55
Rockin Mike said:
Can one use old strings as nut files?

I'm picturing getting the nut glued into place then running old strings back and forth through the slots in a sawing motion to deepen the slots or get burrs out of them.
Click to expand...

Well, roundwounds aren't really abrasive enough to cut a slot, but yes- they are great for doing a final 'ream-out' of the slot to help finish and debur it! I always use a length of same gauged string to finish off a nut slot.
 
#56
Just so you can learn from this experience, I will offer a few comments about the new nut. I understand it is just a $50 bass, but it was an opportunity to do the job well, so hopefully there is a bit can be learned.

Others have mentioned that the nut should be flat against the fingerboard and at its base on the headstock. It is both an intonation issue and ensures a good coupling of the nut to the instrument for good vibrational transfer.

The nut appears to overhang the sides of the neck, that is it's a little too wide. This should be flush with the edges of the neck.

The nut also appears to be taller on the treble side than the bass side - it should taper down to the treble side. It also seems that the strings are too high from the fingerboard - at least the D and G strings.

I would be a bit concerned about the string slots as well. The E string looks OK, but the rest seem to be too wide for the string.

Who knows if you will ever fit a nut again, but if you do perhaps these comments will be helpful.
 
#59
Others have mentioned that the nut should be flat against the fingerboard and at its base on the headstock. It is both an intonation issue and ensures a good coupling of the nut to the instrument for good vibrational transfer.

The nut appears to overhang the sides of the neck, that is it's a little too wide. This should be flush with the edges of the neck.

The nut also appears to be taller on the treble side than the bass side - it should taper down to the treble side. It also seems that the strings are too high from the fingerboard - at least the D and G strings.

I would be a bit concerned about the string slots as well. The E string looks OK, but the rest seem to be too wide for the string.
Click to expand...

Agreed, all.

we're being fussy because the nut installation makes such a huge difference in how it plays, from tuning stability to ease of fretting to intonation.

a well-done nut install will make that $50 bass play better than when it was new, and a poorly-done nut will make a $1000 bass play like a $50 bass, and the difference is measured in thousandths of an inch!

i've had so many instruments with high nut slots turned in to me with "yeah, it plays great, i just need...", and had the owners be blown away by the difference when they got it back and it actually did "play great", and the main difference was the fit and filing of the nut.
Click to expand...

Ab-so-lutely!

You did good! That job looks great to me. I can't believe all the basement luthiers here pulling out all their .001" rules like they think you are restoring a Ritter or something!

Hey, guys! It's like a $50 bass, Dudes! And he's got it looking great and playing again! Can you dig it? I love it!
Click to expand...

If it's worth doing, it's worth doing RIGHT.
 
#60
AND glue stops the nut traveling sideways with string tension....

I agree bad idea for filing down the wood under the nut but in the end the same result even though nasty- looking!

Also personally i would be keeping my bass neck as thick as possible around that point - file into it too much and the head'll snap off next time some fan rushes the stage for you and nudges the bass off it's stand!
:bassist:
 

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