Best glue to use for glueing new nut?

[walterw]

...personally i would be keeping my bass neck as thick as possible around that point - file into it too much and the head'll snap off next time some fan rushes the stage for you and nudges the bass off it's stand!

ha!

you'd have to file a lot of wood away for that to be a concern.

 

[seang15]

I didn't read thru yet, but anybody say Superglue yet??

 

[moucon]

The 'right' way to lower action at the nut is NOT to remove .....

I know this is an old thread but I hate reading mis-information on these boards.

There is absolutely NOTHING wrong with lowering the nut action by removing material from the bottom of the nut - exactly as you would to lower a bridge saddle, etc. There is also absolutely NOTHING wrong with getting there by deepening the string slots. Finally - there are certain instances where the right solution would be to deepen the nut slot. My point - If you are professional luthier you have to know what you're doing and approach the problem in the way that is most logical and will produce the best result in the least amount of time (and cost) for your client.

IF only ONE string or two strings were an issue - then I would deepen those strings' slots with the correct nut file. I use math and calculate where I'm heading - I never just "wing it".

IF the entire nut action was too high - which it often is with cheapie instruments, THEN I would most definitely consider removing material from the bottom of the nut. I make a scribe mark on both sides so I know exactly where to stop and then sand the nut to final thickness. Since it's all done using math - the result is perfect every time. Don't "wing it" - measure and do the calcs. One note about nut adjustments - don't do ANYTHING until you have the neck relief and other basic settings where you want them - what might seem like be a "high" nut might in fact be a back-bow, a high fret, or something else altogether. In fact, I usually make nut action adjustments the last thing I do during a set-up.

RE: Wood removal/repair -- remember that the nut is a "wear" part - meant to be replaced from time to time. If you're working with a good guitar it is almost NEVER necessary to modify the nut slot, other to make sure it's totally cleaned out of old glue and gunk, and has a perfectly flat bottom to receive the new nut. Sometimes though - the guitar is not so good, and would actually benefit by making a more "crisp" nut slot - a more "square" nut slot- whatever. Some acoustics for example were never fitted properly to begin with and so the nut rocks or refuses to stay put. In those cases i would consider modifying the wood instead of the nut. Only do this with serious experience and also knowing that you're making the instrument more standard and/or easy to repair for someone who comes next after you. IF you have already butchered the nut slot, or if you buy a guitar where someone else has - you may actually need to glue in new wood and then re-cut the whole thing from scratch. Or, you may have to remove MORE wood first (to square up)- then glue in a patch - THEN re-cut the nut slot so it's correct. The "length" of the first fret (or more accurately- the total scale length) MUST be maintained, so that might be another reason to build up and re-cut the slot.

Again - this is a case-by-case assessment, but one thing for sure - if the bottom of the slot is not flat, and the side facing the fingerboard (at least) is not square to the bottom -someone will have trouble with that nut from now until the end of time.

Finally - "Gluing" in the nut. Don't. The nut is a WEAR part and should be able to be easily removed. Some luthiers use NO adhesive of any kind - in a housed nut slot the strings will hold the nut in place. Some make a tab or "pin" in the nut that corresponds with an tenon or pin in the neck. Some use a dab of white glue. Some use a drop of CA glue. Just remember this is not supposed to be anything more than "just enough" to keep the nut in place for those times when there's no string tension, and to keep it from creeping up or down across the neck. Whatever you use - just make sure it doesn't add a lump to the bottom of the slot - a bump as as little as .001" will cause the nut to crack under string pressure. The bottom of both the nut and the slot must be in perfect contact. FWIW - I use Tusq or bone nuts and usually set them with a TINY drop of yellow or white glue on the SIDE of the nut - NOT the bottom. CA is nice because it will suck itself into the joint but please don't be tempted to use more than ONE drop. I've over-glued with CA without realizing it and wound up damaging the fingerboard or neck later when I had to remove the nut.

Hope this helps someone.
Moo

 

[electracoyote]

Just remember this is not supposed to be anything more than "just enough" to keep the nut in place for those times when there's no string tension, and to keep it from creeping up or down across the neck.

I've over-glued with CA without realizing it and wound up damaging the fingerboard or neck later when I had to remove the nut.

Words of wisdom.