Best potentiometers for bass

[pickles]

I said audio taper only because that is what I thought I was supposed to have ... now I've got a bit of analysis paralysis.

Also CTS vs. Bourns ... both available on allparts, and difference in quality?

I may just order both.

 

[SGD Lutherie]

And on a typical passive jazz bass this is the norm, yes? And 250k is preferred over 500k too? Also the Squier CV and VM are using 250k pots as well?

250K is pretty common for Fender instruments. If you have hotter pickups, or want a brighter tone, use 500K.

 

[walterw]

I am reading this with great interest! This is all kinda new stuff for me. And I see the general consensus is Linear for tone and audio for volume.

that's the exact opposite of what you want!

seriously, this isn't complicated, and it's easy to test for yourself. there just seems to be a lot of resistance (pardon the pun) to the idea because fender always used audio volumes.

linear volumes will sweep evenly, audio volumes will drop off fast from "10".

audio tones will darken evenly from "10" to "0", linear tones will drop off suddenly near "0".

linear. volumes. and. audio. tones.

 

[Clark Dark]

here's my recent experience. I have a P-J loaded Gecko with an OBP-3. I was using V/V + the OBP-3. I changed out the V/V for a stacked 500K linear taper volume then added a 250K audio taper for a passive tone control like in the OBP-1 wiring diagram (always on). The linear taper volume controls kick in at 1 instead of 3 like the audio tapers did, and sweep nice and even up to 10. At first I was skeptical about using 500K with the J pup (single coil) but after asking questions on this forum (thanx guys) I was told the 500K would work fine, and it does, increasing output slightly and adding tonal brightness.
I got my dual concentric 500K linear taper volume control here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/TOG-DUAL-CONCEN...emQQptZGuitar_Accessories?hash=item5636783d45

 

[pickles]

linear. volumes. and. audio. tones.

Alright, I'll try it this way. Now on to the shopping, so far I can't find the linear version of this:

http://www.allparts.com/250K-Bourns-Mini-Pot-p/ep-5185-000.htm

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Which sounds like what I want.

Mini 250K linear, 17 mm body diameter, 0.1 watts, 300 degree rotation, 1/4" shaft diameter, solder lugs, 3/8 bushing, solid shaft.

Aka just like this:

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But 17mm body.

Exactly the same thing with CTS, I can find the perfect audio taper pot:

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

But no linear version in the 17mm body.

Getting closer ... any sourcing help appreciated. Ideally I'd like to get a set of both the bourns and CTS and see which one I like better physically.

 

[walterw]

why the minis? just get the better full-size pots.

 

[walterw]

...stacked 500K linear taper volume... The linear taper volume controls kick in at 1 instead of 3 like the audio tapers did, and sweep nice and even up to 10...

when you wire the pickup to the middle lug instead of the clockwise lug (like you have to with two volumes), it does indeed jump up just a little from "0". with a one-volume setup and the pickup(s) going into the clockwise lug, it will eliminate even that minor jump.

 

[pickles]

why the minis? just get the better full-size pots.

The full size pots I'm using now rub against the side of the cavity if I'm not super careful. The bass was routed with minis in mind.

 

[walterw]

it's not a big deal either way, but i'd be more inclined to dremel out the walls of the control cavity just a little and use "real" full-size pots.

 

[Ryan Mohr]

What did you end up buying? I'm a little confused over this audio/linear thing. I understand the sweeps of the different types of pots, but it seems like it varies from thread to thread.

This thread: linear for volume, audio for tone

Another thread http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=511890 audio for volume, linear for tone

I am putting a series/parallel switch in my J bass in search of a little more fatness/thickness/richness, so that along with the other volume will be audio because I can only find audio push/pull pots: http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=511890 Should I go with audio for tone as well?

 

[line6man]

What did you end up buying? I'm a little confused over this audio/linear thing. I understand the sweeps of the different types of pots, but it seems like it varies from thread to thread.

This thread: linear for volume, audio for tone

Another thread http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=511890 audio for volume, linear for tone

I am putting a series/parallel switch in my J bass in search of a little more fatness/thickness/richness, so that along with the other volume will be audio because I can only find audio push/pull pots: http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=511890 Should I go with audio for tone as well?

I've changed my mind since I posted in that thread.
Actually, the linear tone I was using turned out to be an audio taper. I tried a real linear taper, and it has very little effect until toward the end of the rotation.
Stick with an audio taper for tone.

On the other hand, the linear taper works much better for volume. It gives a smoother roll off than an audio taper, without that big jump from 10 to 8ish.

I have tried both tapers for volume controls, and come to the conclusion that linear works way better than audio.

Go with linear taper volumes and audio taper tones.

 

[Ryan Mohr]

I've changed my mind since I posted in that thread.
Actually, the linear tone I was using turned out to be an audio taper. I tried a real linear taper, and it has very little effect until toward the end of the rotation.
Stick with an audio taper for tone.

On the other hand, the linear taper works much better for volume. It gives a smoother roll off than an audio taper, without that big jump from 10 to 8ish.

I have tried both tapers for volume controls, and come to the conclusion that linear works way better than audio.

Go with linear taper volumes and audio taper tones.

Oh ok that makes more sense now. Do you know any 250K linear taper volume push/pull pots? I really need the series/parallel switch so if I can't find one I will have to stick with the audio.

 

[line6man]

Oh ok that makes more sense now. Do you know any 250K linear taper volume push/pull pots? I really need the series/parallel switch so if I can't find one I will have to stick with the audio.

http://www.allparts.com/250K-Linear-Pot-p/ep-0345-000.htm

 

[Ryan Mohr]

http://www.allparts.com/250K-Linear-Pot-p/ep-0345-000.htm

Are those CTS? Thanks

 

[line6man]

Are those CTS? Thanks

I believe, though I am not 100%, that Allparts has their own brand of pots.

 

[jworrellbass]

You can give these guy a look also.
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

 

[ProfGumby]

that's the exact opposite of what you want!

seriously, this isn't complicated, and it's easy to test for yourself. there just seems to be a lot of resistance (pardon the pun) to the idea because fender always used audio volumes.

linear volumes will sweep evenly, audio volumes will drop off fast from "10".

audio tones will darken evenly from "10" to "0", linear tones will drop off suddenly near "0".

linear. volumes. and. audio. tones.

Thanks for the response btw. But it is all complicated to me till I get it down. I have to do something a few times before it sinks in when it comes to electronics and such. And don't ask me to explain resistance, impedance or how ohms really work...
I know once I get a basic understanding though it will be like wood working and finishing has always been for me.

For now I went the easy route and had bayou make up a harness for me. But I have printed your info and on my first real build I will go that route. It makes sense to me, sorta....

 

[Gougedeye]

Glad I stumbled on this thread...I was wondering what sort of pots to put in my Lakland 5564.

 

[walterw]

Glad I stumbled on this thread...I was wondering what sort of pots to put in my Lakland 5564.

wow, you stumbled onto a 7 year old classic!

so that lakie is a P-bass type?

i'll stand by my old advice from '09; linear volumes and audio tones will both have the best sweeps for normal clean bass tones.

250k for the classic tone, 500k for more brightness and grind; i like the 500ks with my fralin-equipped '96 amerian standard P, it keeps more of the "character" of the bass in the mix so it sounds like "P-bass" rather than just "bass". if i want to go back to vintage all i have to do is roll the tone knob back to about 7, that's the same as a 250k tone pot on 10.

 

[Gougedeye]

wow, you stumbled onto a 7 year old classic!

so that lakie is a P-bass type?

i'll stand by my old advice from '09; linear volumes and audio tones will both have the best sweeps for normal clean bass tones.

250k for the classic tone, 500k for more brightness and grind; i like the 500ks with my fralin-equipped '96 amerian standard P, it keeps more of the "character" of the bass in the mix so it sounds like "P-bass" rather than just "bass". if i want to go back to vintage all i have to do is roll the tone knob back to about 7, that's the same as a 250k tone pot on 10.

That's Talk Bass for you! I just scored a 2010 LOG Precision Bass V. The tone pot was bad. The bass is equipped with either the Hansen Neopunch or the Nordstrand NP5, both of which are fairly bright, modern sounding pickups.