Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Best strings for a 34" scale 5
- Thread starter Gabriel51
- Start date
And what kind of bass specifically? The bass makes a big difference too.
IME, the bass has more to do with a solid sounding B string than the strings. I dunno if that's where you were going with this, but you mentioned it was a 5, and I thought I'd throw it out there.
IME, the bass has more to do with a solid sounding B string than the strings. I dunno if that's where you were going with this, but you mentioned it was a 5, and I thought I'd throw it out there.
It's not rocket science guys, if you have been here then you know what I'm talking about and why. I'm looking for a solution to the 34" scale B string flop. I do not have this problem but would like to know what others have found so when I change strings I can refer to their experiences.
Being specific only narrows the scope and my options later, so if you have something to contribute please do so, it will be appreciated
Being specific only narrows the scope and my options later, so if you have something to contribute please do so, it will be appreciated
Okay, here's what I've found:
1) If your bass has a floppy B string, you can change to a higher gauge string and that will help the flop, no matter what brand of string you're using. .128 is about as low as I'd go in that regard (YBMV).
2) If your bass still has a floppy SOUNDING B after you've changed gauges, then it's not the strings, it's your bass, and there's very little you can do to improve it. Some 5 strings just don't do well reproducing those low notes faithfully without absorbing most of the tone, and it usually means it's just a lemon. I've had several, and it stinks.
3) Refusing to tell us what kind of bass we're talking about limits our ability to help you. If we're talking in general, that's fine, but that won't be too terribly helpful to anyone - no matter what anyone says here, your options are never limited by what WE say.
1) If your bass has a floppy B string, you can change to a higher gauge string and that will help the flop, no matter what brand of string you're using. .128 is about as low as I'd go in that regard (YBMV).
2) If your bass still has a floppy SOUNDING B after you've changed gauges, then it's not the strings, it's your bass, and there's very little you can do to improve it. Some 5 strings just don't do well reproducing those low notes faithfully without absorbing most of the tone, and it usually means it's just a lemon. I've had several, and it stinks.
3) Refusing to tell us what kind of bass we're talking about limits our ability to help you. If we're talking in general, that's fine, but that won't be too terribly helpful to anyone - no matter what anyone says here, your options are never limited by what WE say.
This is the kind of experience I was looking for. Primarily choice of strings to avoid down the road would be good, as I said I'm not experiencing any difficulties at this time.
I'm not refusing to disclose any specific instrument, The nature of this post was formatted with that omission intentionally. I have two new 5's one is 35" and will have a new fretless next week, so you see the question is moot.
I'm not refusing to disclose any specific instrument, The nature of this post was formatted with that omission intentionally. I have two new 5's one is 35" and will have a new fretless next week, so you see the question is moot.
Some general thoughts to add:
Hex core strings tend to be stiffer than round core strings.
DR strings advertise that they're able to pack more mass into their strings because of the gauge of wraps they choose to use and how they fit into the cracks as they go, thus making a stiffer string. Might be worth a shot, but you might not like them either.
DR is also making a Jonas Hellborg string with a REALLY thick core on the E. Had a very positive effect on the tone, but 1) they only come in light gauge and 2) I don't think they do 5-strings sets yet (if at all). But keep your eyes peeled.
Hex core strings tend to be stiffer than round core strings.
DR strings advertise that they're able to pack more mass into their strings because of the gauge of wraps they choose to use and how they fit into the cracks as they go, thus making a stiffer string. Might be worth a shot, but you might not like them either.
DR is also making a Jonas Hellborg string with a REALLY thick core on the E. Had a very positive effect on the tone, but 1) they only come in light gauge and 2) I don't think they do 5-strings sets yet (if at all). But keep your eyes peeled.
It's been my experience that MTD Stainless (and probably the nickels as well but I've not tried them) are nice and stiff, ALSO!! the best part is that the B is on a taper/exposed core. Dean Markley SR2000s or whatever the Will Lee string is are decent, a bit abrasive on the fingers at first but I dig that the B thru D are taper core.
I have DR FatBeams on most of my 5s/6s and it's true that the round core is a bit "loose", not floppy but definitely not the string if you want to slam your action to super low.
Ernie Ball Slinky 5s have always worked great on my Bongo 5 and StingRay 5 basses as well.
I have DR FatBeams on most of my 5s/6s and it's true that the round core is a bit "loose", not floppy but definitely not the string if you want to slam your action to super low.
Ernie Ball Slinky 5s have always worked great on my Bongo 5 and StingRay 5 basses as well.
Also, to add to the previous statements about the bass making a big difference in the B string...what exactly do you mean by "flop." People tend to either be referring to the feel of the string or the sound (or both) when they make this statement. However, just because a B feels floppy doesn't necessarily mean it sounds floppy.
I have a Warwick where the B string feels extremely floppy as compared to my other two primary basses, but it sounds better than both of them...especially recorded.
I guess my point is that, like a previous poster stated, all things being equal increasing the string gauge will help the feel of the string, but the sound is determined by the bass to a large extent.
I have a Warwick where the B string feels extremely floppy as compared to my other two primary basses, but it sounds better than both of them...especially recorded.
I guess my point is that, like a previous poster stated, all things being equal increasing the string gauge will help the feel of the string, but the sound is determined by the bass to a large extent.
Huge +1 on the MTD's. I have MTD Nickels on my Lakland and my six string which are both 35" and I absolutely adore the way they feel, play and sound.
I have had Chromes on a 34" fretless 6 that were nice. I also liked the sound of the D'Addario XL Nickels on that fretless as well.
