Best Tools for Neck Carving

[RichterScale]

Not sure how you folks who use a 5" ROS for body/neck shaping, do it.
I just can't get a feel for it. I've only been able to use it for large, flat surfaces. It feels very clumsy for necks and body perimeters.

 

[Videojunkie]

I didn't realize we were sharing pictures
(Not shown, spokeshaves)

 

[RichterScale]

What would be cool is a rasp/file that's in the shape of a spoke shave.

 

[Freekmagnet]

I just use a Shinto rasp, a coarse half round file and couple of different sized round files. Oh and a piece of sandpaper wrapped around a dowel stick.

 

[dwizum]

I've looked at the Dragon rasp, the $75-100 price put me off a bit, the Highland Tools Iwaska files sound good by description, and the price looks reasonable. At the moment, I think I could do everything I need with a half round/flat and a full round rod type file.

For what it's worth, I bought a full round Iwasaki too (5 or 6mm I think) and I rarely use it. The half round shape that the normal 6" comes in is a perfect radius for typical curves near a volute or heel. If I could go back in time I would skip the round iwasaki and get a medium cut flat or half round instead, as a compliment to the two fine cut ones I have.

 

[postalflunkie]

Spokeshave to cut most of the meat away, I have a flat one and a curved one. Shinto rasp and a kutzall half round rasp to smooth things out and I use my robosander on a hand drill to shape the volute and heel. I hold the drill with one hand and the bearing on the sanding drum in the other hand, it gives me good control.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

I have all of the above mentioned tools in my tool racks, and I've used them all for carving necks at one time and another. Spokeshaves, clockmaker's drawknives, Shinto rasps, Micro-planes, regular rasps, carving gouges, etc. They all work, with various pros and cons.

What do I actually use most of the time? I do the rough shaping with a disk grinder and a 60 grit sanding disk. For carving out tighter areas, a Makita heavy electric die grinder with a dome-shaped cutter.

From there, it's files. A big 12" half round Bastard file, working down to smaller 2nd and Smooth files. Almost all of the shaping, smoothing and removal of tool marks is done with files. I like files. I feel like I have better control over them, and can bring the wood right to the final shape with less risk of going too far.

Routers and grinders to take off the first half-inch of wood; files for the last 1/16". Sandpaper is only the final step, to even out the surface finish.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

Due to my inherent Cheapskatery, I've been making do with a set of cheap Harbor Freight rasps. They do the job, but clog easily, and leave a rough finish that takes a while to sand out. Other than the Usual Suspects, like a Shinto rasp (tried one, not hugely impressed), what are you all using? Ive tried some of the micro-plane rasps with limited success, but that may be down to technique. I think my ideal would be something short, half round for flats or curves, fairly aggressive, but cuts rather than gouges like a rasp, and leaves a finish that doesnt take hours to sand out. Maybe it doesnt exist. Suggestions??

To specifically answer your question: You need a good sharp 10" or 12" half-round Bastard file. With a good handle (I like the screw-on style wood handles). Not a worn-out one from a flea market. Buy a new one. Learn some technique with it, use it only on wood, protect it to keep it sharp. That's the magic forever tool that you are asking for.

 

[Durham52]

My favorite tool for neck shaping is an old Stanley Surform, like the one pictured, though that isn't mine, mine is less bashed up although it has been in use since 1977. (I just posted a pic of the web because I couldn't be bothered to get mine out photograph it, upload the pic, etc.) I only use the radiused blades, (as shown) not the flat and I prefer it to expensive Shinto rasps. It does all my rough shaping, it's basically like one of those kitchen micro planes, but the blades are much tougher and stronger, but super sharp, they also last a fair while and are pretty cheap to replace.

 

[ChickWithaRic]

Yep I use a flap sander on angle grinder too. I used to have an excalibur? or king arthur or something? But I lost it. After the flap sander I use a short block with 80 grit along the neck to smooth out the big bumps and keep it straight, then big round bastard file to do final shaping, a fine half round file to smooth that off, then 180 and 220 before grain raising and finish prep.

That THING with a length of chainsaw chain wrapped around steel disks held on with hairgrips? Don't go ANYWHERE near one of those. That tool should be banned. I think the original manufacturer went out of business, or ceased importing, or whatever, and now all that's on sale is a very badly made and designed Chinese "almost but not quite" copy of the genuine Arbotex. It's a grenade. There's a guy on YouTube called Stumpy Nubbs, search his channel for his experiences with them. Warning: Graphic content.

Shinto rasps, spokeshaves, flap wheels, and the mighty Graf Speedcutter 4 1/2 inch grinder disk (basically a steel disk with 3 carbide teeth) are all really good shaping tools which you can use very safely. I really do like Shinto rasps, especially with the auxiliary handle, but you must clamp your workpiece firmly so you can get your body behind the rasp. If you don't do that, you're just sweating, not working. One of those things is not the same.

Only, I don't sweat.

I glisten.

 

[RobbieK]

Many nice ideas already.

For me, I rough carve necks with a Record spoke shave, then fine tune with a cabinet scraper (AKA "card scraper"). You'll need a burnishing tool of some kind as well.

For the heel and headstock transitions I use 1/2" and 3/8" pairing chisels.

I used to use rasps and files when I was starting out, and they are cheap and intuitive to use. With chisels, shaves and scrapers of course, you need to invest in a few sharpening tools as well, but there is something very satisfying about making wood shavings as opposed to sawdust.

 

[thisSNsucks]

Spokeshave, shinto, dragon Rasps, files, sandpaper. Pretty much in that order.

I give you guys taking angle grinders to your necks a lot of credit, I don't have the stones to use one haha.

 

[ChickWithaRic]

To specifically answer your question: You need a good sharp 10" or 12" half-round Bastard file. With a good handle (I like the screw-on style wood handles). Not a worn-out one from a flea market. Buy a new one. Learn some technique with it, use it only on wood, protect it to keep it sharp. That's the magic forever tool that you are asking for.

If you can find a good quality Dreadnought file, you'll never go back to a diamond cut file.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

If you can find a good quality Dreadnought file, you'll never go back to a diamond cut file.

Yes, Dreadnought-style files are wonderful for woodcutting, if you can find them. They seem to be more popular in the UK/EU for some reason. I have a few of them. Most of my best wood files are more common straight single-cuts or double-cuts (diamond cut). My metal files are mostly double-cut.

If you haven't seen Dreadnought files, they have large single-cut teeth that go in a sweeping curve. A sharp one will peel off wood like a rasp, and leave a very smooth surface.

 

[Gilmourisgod]

I actually have been using a Surform for initial rough, and that hogs off a lot of material quick, so I'm careful with it. Its the finer work I'm having trouble with, I find a longer file or rasp kind of gets in its own way on tight work like heels and volutes. The sheer number of viable options in this thread probably means there is no perfect solution that work for everyone, but I think its one of the hand tool options for me, i dont have the touch yet to do anything really quick. Im more of a slow nibbler, file a little, look at it, feel it etc. Until it feels right. Time to buy some quality tools, for once.

 

[Beej]

That THING with a length of chainsaw chain wrapped around steel disks held on with hairgrips? Don't go ANYWHERE near one of those. That tool should be banned. I think the original manufacturer went out of business, or ceased importing, or whatever, and now all that's on sale is a very badly made and designed Chinese "almost but not quite" copy of the genuine Arbotex. It's a grenade. There's a guy on YouTube called Stumpy Nubbs, search his channel for his experiences with them. Warning: Graphic content.

Shinto rasps, spokeshaves, flap wheels, and the mighty Graf Speedcutter 4 1/2 inch grinder disk (basically a steel disk with 3 carbide teeth) are all really good shaping tools which you can use very safely. I really do like Shinto rasps, especially with the auxiliary handle, but you must clamp your workpiece firmly so you can get your body behind the rasp. If you don't do that, you're just sweating, not working. One of those things is not the same.

Only, I don't sweat.

I glisten.

Lancelot, that was it. Still made by King Arthur Tools and sold at places like Home Depot, etc. Pretty sure I got mine at Lee Valley, but might have been home hardware (canadian chain). That thing worked beautifully, light and graceful. Like chainsaw carving but with way more feel and responsiveness. Not for everyone for sure, but like anything, you get there with practice. I would characterize it as much less dangerous than using a chainsaw, but I did wear my welding leathers when using it. I also had a kutzall shaping disc, which was also awesome. I'd forgotten about that one until I was looking at lancelots. I should get another, it was great for carving transitions.

 

[ardgedee]

Lancelot, that was it. Still made by King Arthur Tools...

Haha, I was curious and googled for "king arthur tools lancelot" and the first Google autosuggestion was "king arthur tools lancelot accidents", so that seems to be a thing.

 

[rudy4444]

That THING with a length of chainsaw chain wrapped around steel disks held on with hairgrips? Don't go ANYWHERE near one of those. That tool should be banned. I think the original manufacturer went out of business, or ceased importing, or whatever, and now all that's on sale is a very badly made and designed Chinese "almost but not quite" copy of the genuine Arbotex. It's a grenade. There's a guy on YouTube called Stumpy Nubbs, search his channel for his experiences with them. Warning: Graphic content.

Shinto rasps, spokeshaves, flap wheels, and the mighty Graf Speedcutter 4 1/2 inch grinder disk (basically a steel disk with 3 carbide teeth) are all really good shaping tools which you can use very safely. I really do like Shinto rasps, especially with the auxiliary handle, but you must clamp your workpiece firmly so you can get your body behind the rasp. If you don't do that, you're just sweating, not working. One of those things is not the same.

Only, I don't sweat.

I glisten.

The chainsaw carving heads should be banned, I agree. There are far safer heads for a right angle grinder, check out the Holy Galahad. It's a donut shaped carving head with sintered carbide nubs on it, similar to all of the shaping tools many carvers use in Foredom handpieces. I have one and it works well for power carving, but it's too aggressive to use for neck shaping. They have holes incorporated in the donut so you can actually see your work as you carve with them.

Great for things like sculpted furniture but not great for necks.

 

[rudy4444]

Not sure how you folks who use a 5" ROS for body/neck shaping, do it.
I just can't get a feel for it. I've only been able to use it for large, flat surfaces. It feels very clumsy for necks and body perimeters.

Rasps do the basic profile and the ROS smooths out the surface quickly. The foot control makes all the difference in being able to control the process.

 

[ChickWithaRic]

Rasps do the basic profile and the ROS smooths out the surface quickly. The foot control makes all the difference in being able to control the process.

View attachment 4516763

Wait what they make pedals for tools too? I want an overdrive for my framing gun. And a looper for my miter saw, for perfect results every time.