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Use the CTS 500/500, but use resistors to effectively achieve 250K or thereabouts. Cheap alternative, "undo-able" and risk-free to the cosmetics of the bass.It is a warmoth body with p bass control holes and a rear cavity. I have 2 p bass pickups, stacked vol/tone and a blend.
The only concentric pot I could find from CTS that fits is the one warmoth sells which is a CTS 500/500, but the pickups are a bit brighter sounding than I’d like so I thought maybe the 250k would mellow them a bit.
I just can’t find a 500/250 stack with a bushing that is long enough
I'd use a router plane as someone mentioned above (OWT) or a sharp chisel (as I noted, no mallet, just push gently by hand).If you don’t want to go the loading capacitor route you could try a Forstner bit in a hand brace instead of a powered drill. I’d still make and use a guide like I mentioned above.
My advice is to try to perform the task using a piece of scrap wood of the same species and grain orientation before attempting work on your bass.
I love concentric pot, the values man the values!I live near Nashville and I'm proud to say there are several local dispensaries that offer many different types of concentric pot.
Not a power router (finger trimmer), a router plane also called "old woman's tooth". The one below is the larger fancier type, the small one would be fine for this job.I did this with a router on my Warmoth body. Their tops are too thick to fit the pots for my East preamp so I had to thin out those areas.
I don't think they carry this strain at my local dispensary...I love concentric pot, the values man the values!