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black & blond P makeover (etc)

And it's here. My platform was designed to intergrate stylistically with the oval Delano but the BS-DS has a kind of muscle-car chunkiness that works both with and against the modernistic curves of the SuperB body. Pick-guard blank, as is said - on a slow boat from China, is the last to come. Not much time lately anyway - this time of year always goes into hyper-drive.

As an aside, saw Specter the other night. I heard it got marginal reviews but as a 00 agent myself - two thumbs up! And the song is one we'll pick apart and reform into a Bond Girl rocker! :bassist:

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That p/g shape with the hardware layout and color tones looks great together!

BTW: how effective are those screws on the Darkstar? Aren't they pretty far outside the magnetic field relative to the poles and coils?
 
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That p/g shape with the hardware layout and color tones looks great together!

BTW: how effective are those screws on the Darkstar? Aren't they pretty far outside the magnetic field relative to the poles and coils?

Thanks! Once I get a block of time I'll add wood to the neck-pocket, install the neck, cut the pg, and set it up prior to finishing. There are a few conversion details like the 5 string-thru holes and neck insets to resolve also.

I'm not sure of your question… the screws raise (or lower) the poles, say, if one wanted them to curve with the fretboard radius like Dimarzio or G&L pu's have in a less archaic/more direct design. I generally leave them flat/as stock unless there's an outstanding discrepancy with string output or balance. It's a pretty 'hot' pu so if it's installed within standard tolerances, (string to pole distance) there's really no need for that subtilty of pole adjustment. On the only other bass I have a Novak BS-DS installed in - I didn't need to adjust the poles, but on another bass with the Guild version, I did raise the G string pole for output balance across the strings. Not sure if the imbalance was the result of the pu or the string but it did help.
 
I am just not sure the pickguard is big enough... :D

Many guitars have sported what I call "full frontal" pg's over the years. Ric's were some of the earliest.

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Here's one I did years ago. It was a guitar (I tried) but it became a bass. Partially was created from the same 'inspiration' as this ex-SuperB fretless... to hide the prior history modifications. I feel both are successful as a problem solved that still looked cool.

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I think the pick guard looks good as-is: the straight edge/line on the top fairing into the curve gives it an aggressive look IMO.

A large pick guard (full size top) is much like a wood 'top' or veneer in appearance when done in good taste.
The guitar/bass above looks very nice that way.
 
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I think the pick guard looks good as-is: the straight edge/line on the top fairing into the curve gives it an aggressive look IMO.

A large pick guard (full size top) is much like a wood 'top' or veneer in appearance when done in good taste.
The guitar/bass above looks very nice that way.

Thanks! I also like that long straight edge/line. It's a visually dynamic statement within the many curves that make up the body shape and your assessment that it gives an aggressive look is spot-on. The white center layer of the blk/wht/blk pg will further delineate that line. In the meantime I keep thinking about how it will be finished - my latest thought is to have Marty Bell do a sparkle finish and then shoot a trans rouge sang (oxblood) over it. A sparkle finish is a good choice for a body with repaired/plugged/patched areas because it's thick. I initially was thinking of gilding (gold leaf) and then trans rs over it. Either way my aim is dark and rich with an subtle undercurrent of light-generated movement.
 
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Thanks! I also like that long straight edge/line. It's a visually dynamic statement within the many curves that make up the body shape and your assessment that it gives an aggressive look is spot-on. The white center layer of the blk/wht/blk pg will further delineate that line. In the meantime I keep thinking about how it will be finished - my latest thought is to have Marty Bell do a sparkle finish and then shoot a trans rouge sang (oxblood) over it. A sparkle finish is a good choice for a body with repaired/plugged/patched areas because it's thick. I initially was thinking of gilding (gold leaf) and then trans rs over it. Either way my aim is dark and rich with an subtle undercurrent of light-generated movement.
I'm picturing a deep, darker candy apple red with a sparkle basecoat and oxblood clear over it. That would look sweet. Maybe make the edges subtly darker like a Sparkle CAR sunburst in a way.
 
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On page 4, post #65 (Oct 2014) of this meandering thread, I built up a Fiesta Red J starting from a WD body I got for a good price on eBay. It saw active duty for a short time, and since then has been hibernating in a box w/o attachments/parts. I have a few projects in limbo waiting for finishing etc, so as a chronic doer, I pulled it into sunlight for another go at a viable player. I had a set of Fender Super 55's (split-coils), a chrome control plate, and 2 out of 3 knobs :), and the 80's Ibanez "heart-shaped" tuners - so I figured.., why not? The alder body isn't light (5+lbs) so I considered slicing it in two and chambering it - but as it is finished I would create more problems than solving the weight issue is worth. Soooo.., I found a Mighty Mite maple unfinished P neck on eBay for their low going price and ordered it. I think maple will look best against the red, and I like maple neck brightness. I also wanted a P neck for the J body - I'm luckily not fussy about playing ONLY P or J necks - I enjoy playing both and find I express differently with each version. (my wide '66 P, my medium T2K Mk II P, and a J, which I mostly play)

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So I've designed a suitable modification for the Fender-style hs once it arrives. First off, the tuner-post holes on the MM neck are Fender standard 11/16". The Ibanez tuners are 7/16". So first I will fill the holes with a maple plug (I have an 11/16" maple dowel and have been down this road before) and re-drill for the Ibanez tuners. The back-side won't matter as the tuner plates will cover any discrepancies, and I will be painting the hs face black so after filling, priming etc - none will be the wiser. For extra fun, I am going to shape the hs contours to allude to the 80's Ibanez design. It won't be quite as big (conforming within the Fender hs design perimeter) but will be a tip-of-the-hat, especially with the heart-shaped tuners. There is an 80's maple Roadstar II neck currently on eBay, but frets are worn and the price is high ATC. 80's Ibanez necks are cool, but not exactly what I would consider valuable vintage commodities.

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As always, I'm contemplating the aesthetics of this resurrected J - like if I should add a pg. I probably won't as I like it w/o one, but it's a consideration in this case because the red is so intense - you practically need shades to look at it. I brought it to a jam session when it was first assembled into a bass and the drummer (who would not care one way or the other what anyone played) remarked how red it was. I did a google search and most FR J's have rw boarded necks. That combo is more common on P's.

Here's a FR w/wht/blk/wht (classic/clean), but a rw fb. (posted because it's just such a nice pic) I like this more subdued FR. The coral leaning versions are even nicer.
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This looks more like the one I have - RED!! - don't think I'd do tort (unless of course it was a Spitfire...) the FR looks good w/maple though. (no pearl blocks on mine)
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...of course a '66 in FR would be the ultimate to me
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especially w/a bound & block neck

FR w/maple P - the brushed metal guard looks good. WD has a blank in PVC material (gold/clear/gold) or I could just make my own version with a gold-based clear (much cheaper) like I've done in the past. I can buy a matte-clear plastic scrap from Tap Plastic here in SF for under $10 and spray the bottom with a gold of my choice.

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Made this one years ago which looks great. I took cues from the classic Gretch pg's made this way. I spray the bottom of clear plastic and use white contact paper over it so the paint doesn't interface the body finish. When you polish the edges it gives depth to the clear.
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Did the same on my Supersonic in white - the more I think of this the more I'm leaning toward cutting one of these for the FRJ and finding a cool gold shade to accent the maple neck. And to put a cherry on top, the same gold for the hs face… :thumbsup:
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So the pg is done. Instead of paint, I went a different route. I had a sheet of gold sparkle craft paper and cut it to the pg shape. (easy!) It's textured looking and goldish but the matte top surface cuts down on the 'twinkle' of sparkle - so it's not sparkly, if you follow. Looks very close to the brushed gold pg's on the RI's of the anodized aluminum pg's on late 50's P basses - but w/texture. (which similarly are plastic, but with added depth) All and all, I like it - it helps balance the RED so it's less in your face and should go nicely with the maple neck, which I plan on only sealing with wipe-on poly. (so leaning toward natural - not the "vintage" amber coating)

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You can see how the matte surface subdues the sparkle. Edges are steeply beveled as the material is a bit thick - gives it a nice physical transition.
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That big empty space between the neck-pocket and pu is begging for a mud-bucker. :)
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