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Blown tweeter...or crossover? Best testing methods?

KevInDaBassment

The cat's "meh..."
Jul 30, 2010
8,451
9,331
Gulf Coast
Pretty sure I narrowed down where the issue is, here's the bullet points for those who want the tl;dr on my situation and troubleshooting:

Signal path:
Bass -> GK 700RB-II (Pad on, Contour and Presence at 0, 4-string setting, EQ at noon, boost at 12 o'clock)-> Avatar 1x12 Delta with tweeter (via 1/4" speaker cable)

- Heard buzzing sound from cab and (at the time) seemed like no volume was coming out
- Switched batteries in bass, same result
- Switched to different known-working bass and cable, no difference
- Tried both basses and cable in a smaller combo amp, no problems with sound
- Turned volume up higher on GK and Avatar rig, sound came from woofer, but buzzing sound was still coming from tweeter
- Turning down attenuator for tweeter reduced buzzing, but an increase in master volume rendered the same result with more output from amp.
- Zero issues with woofer if tweeter is turned all the way down, even up to far louder volumes.

**After having played through this rig multiple times, the tweeter issue only started now. I have used multiple basses through this cab without issue for the past couple of weeks at very light volumes**

-> Not exactly itching to buy new parts just to test, but is there anything else to narrow down whether it's the crossover or tweeter that's having issues? I DO want to have a working tweeter, as the woofer is an LF driver and voiced pretty low IMO.



For some context, I am not the first owner of this cab, but it appears to be a stock Avatar ported 1x12 with the ceramic Delta (4 ohm) and their stock crossover and tweeter. The crossover (or just attenuator maybe?) is different than the one I had in my neo 2x10 from them. The one in the 1x12 just looks like a massive pot instead of a circuit board. Just appears to be screwed into the input panel on the back, some parts are hot glued down, but I don't think it'll be rocket science to pry the stuff off and start anew.

I'm not a fan of this cab being 4 ohm, or only having 1/4" input jacks (I prefer Speakon), but since I got the cab used for $200 out the door, I'm not exactly itching to sink 50-100% of the cost into getting this thing precisely how I like, since it's just for jamming at home. No tweeter is a bit of a dealbreaker for me, but replacing the tweeter itself (and leaving the crossover in place) would seem the easiest and possibly cheaper alternative.


-Is there a certain wattage or resistance rating I should be going for?-
Since it's just 1/4" from the amp into the attenuator and then woofer, I'm not certain how the power handling is regulated or what the best practice with that would be. I've read the resistance value of the tweeter is irrelevant (it's 8 ohm, my woofer is 4 ohm, but the cab reads 4 ohm on my multimeter).

-Would a beefier tweeter (or crossover) be of any value to me with this rig?-
At 4 ohms of resistance, the GK 700RB-II is slamming this cab with 480w of power. The Delta woofer is rated for ~500w RMS, so I should be good there. Not too sure if that could be why the Tweeter got fried.
However, I have run the amp nowhere NEAR that level of output.
We're talking 7-8 o'clock on master volume, boost at noon, and pre volume at noon with pad on. No pedals run in front, just bass to amp. This thing has come nowhere close to being "pushed" IMO.


If it's JUST the tweeter, I've spotted a few $30-50 replacements that may do the trick. While the possibility of a total overhaul is there (replace 1/4" with Speakons, add a mid-driver instead, crossover, etc.), I would much rather put that money towards a NEW cab if I want that much improvement. For $200, I would be fine with this as long as there's a working tweeter....anything else I can do with a multimeter or 9v battery to test before I starting hitting "Proceed to Checkout"? :(
 
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Well if you actually like the sound of the tweeter then try to fix it. I had the x-over fry on me(2x10) and smoke coming from the cab. It also fried one of my amps. I completely bypassed the tweeter in that cab and put new drivers in it.
I have no use for the tweeter Avatar uses so I’m much happier now. I suggest a better x-over/tweeter combo or none at all. Ymmv etc…
 
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The tweeter uses a replaceable diaphragm, so IF it is the tweeter it’s not expensive to repair.

I would sure want to know more about the crossover though before assuming anything.

It's not this exact one (casing is a little different), but apparently "Speaker L-Pad" may be the term I should have used to describe it. Looks very similar to this:
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/OewAAOSwMf9iUELP/s-l960.jpg

It has a large, orange capacitor soldered to it along with some wiring from the 1/4" jack. Are these pretty much the same across the board, or would I need a specific resistance value to pair with an 8-ohm tweeter or certain wattage handling? The writing on the back of it is awful hard to read and most of this is hot-glued down onto the input plate.


Just don’t break anything in the process

I've never done any re-cones or driver repair...only soldering leads from an input jack to the speakers before. How much forgiveness would there be if I had to pop open the horn tweeter and replace the diaphragm? Any advice on some "Whatever you do, do NOT _____" stuff is always appreciated :D
 
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I saw a few places selling the Foster OEM one for around that price, think there'd be a lot of difference in quality between it and that 3rd party one?
The OEM diaphragm is much better in general.
 
It's not this exact one (casing is a little different), but apparently "Speaker L-Pad" may be the term I should have used to describe it. Looks very similar to this:
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/OewAAOSwMf9iUELP/s-l960.jpg

It has a large, orange capacitor soldered to it along with some wiring from the 1/4" jack. Are these pretty much the same across the board, or would I need a specific resistance value to pair with an 8-ohm tweeter or certain wattage handling? The writing on the back of it is awful hard to read and most of this is hot-glued down onto the input plate.




I've never done any re-cones or driver repair...only soldering leads from an input jack to the speakers before. How much forgiveness would there be if I had to pop open the horn tweeter and replace the diaphragm? Any advice on some "Whatever you do, do NOT _____" stuff is always appreciated :D
Can you post a picture, what you are describing sounds dreadful.
 
Can you post a picture, what you are describing sounds dreadful.

I'm at the office today, should have taken some phone pictures the other day of this...sorta going off memory :bag:

Speaker L-Pads appear to go for around $12-20 from what I can see, so new parts (as long as that capacitor ain't crazy) would still be under $50 or so. It's looking like the wattage ratings from this horn and L-pad were a lot more beefy than I realized, compared to some of the parts I'm seeing now :wideyed:
 
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I'm at the office today, should have taken some phone pictures the other day of this...sorta going off memory :bag:

Speaker L-Pads appear to go for around $12-20 from what I can see, so new parts (as long as that capacitor ain't crazy) would still be under $50 or so. It's looking like the wattage ratings from this horn and L-pad were a lot more beefy than I realized, compared to some of the parts I'm seeing now :wideyed:
Randomly changing parts is a fool’s errand, you need to know what’s wrong first.
 
Has anyone mentioned or recommended calling/e-mailing Dave at Avatar and getting his take on the problem?

Avatar (used to anyway) have repair and replacement parts available directly from them.

VERY good suggestion! :thumbsup:

From what I can see on their website, they also sell loaded input plates with speakon and such too (a bit pricey though). Perhaps we can work something out if I'm getting more than just a ~$10 part from him, gonna be emailing him after work today. Thank you again for the suggestion!
 
SOOOO.....

Here's an update on the situation and what the resolution was (also going to speculate on the cause of the problem).

On a HUNCH, I moved the amp to a completely different wall and outlet, as I was having issues with the woofer now. Moved it over to the opposite wall (an interior wall), and magically it all worked just as good as new. Even the tweeter sounded fine at higher volumes that previously distorted!

Now, that was a GK 700RB-II into an Avatar 1x12 that was having issues. The combo I cited as working before was a Rumble 15 V1 combo (15w into a 1x8 speaker). What I'm inferring here, is that this was electrical issues with that wall socket causing the distortion somehow. The lower power draw of the Rumble amp, I'm guessing, wouldn't have been pulling as much juice from the wall and wouldn't hit those issues at the same rate as the GK.

Very relieved that I don't have to do anything else, as the rig seems to be working fine now. I'm a tad worried that the GK may have taken some damage from this, but I have heard/seen no issues with usage thus far. Kind of a testament to those GK RB-series amps, if you ask me :smug:


So if anyone else is having this issue, check your outlets! I'd get it looked at, but I rent my place and the landlord ain't gonna pay an electrician to come out and troubleshoot sub-par audio gear performance. A cell phone charger works in there and it'll turn a lamp on, so I doubt we'll get much of anywhere outside that lol.


tl;dr - it was the power outlet on that wall, moved to another one and now all is well


Thank you to all who gave support and wisdom on this! Maybe someday I'll work up the nerve to do a speakon connector swap for this cab! :)
 
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Doubt it was the power outlet.
L Pads can become intermittent, the wire windings that create the "pad" are absorbing the power when the L Pad is turned down and can overheat and burn out.
L Pads are normally on the output side of the driver crossover so they are not seeing the power of the full range signal, still they can get damaged or just plainly worn out.

L Pads need to match the impedance of the driver as they maintain the impedance the crossover sees as you turn it down to keep the crossover frequency the same.
 

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