Body blank weight Vs. Finished weight

[BaileyMan]

A search didn't turn up any threads...

I'm wanting to take the next step up in building a bass. I want to make the body from a blank. I'm wondering what an approximate final body weight will be based on the weight of the blank.

I know the answer will depend on a variety of factors, but is there a ball park figure? 70%, 80%, 90% of the weight of the blank?

Thanks for any tips!

 

[charlie monroe]

Impossible question.

What are the dimensions of your blank (billet)?

What style of bass are you planning?

 

[Beej]

I have kind of a sense of what it will be based on different body designs I've used, but there are so many other factors, depending on how you build.

If you're talking about just a simple solid body Fender style design, then from a "pruning away" standpoint, you may lose about 20-30% of the weight with the body shape, cutaways, roundovers, pocket and routs. You could lose more with a smaller, thinner body, deeper roundovers and a larger control cavity as well, or less with a larger, thicker slab style body.

 

[FiftyOne]

Hmm. The trick is to always cut a same-sized piece from the blank (say 1.75x1.75”) to use as a comparator then you’ll know what the next body will weigh.

This is from my bench last night. 1pc swamp ash 51 P-Bass (no arm or tummy carves).
Not seen one on Warmoth as light as this. Would be under 4 pounds if I added the carves and round over of a ‘55.

 

[jallenbass]

A 4 lb. non-loaded Jazz or Precision body will yield about an 8 lb. bass, give or take. That's with lightweight tuners.

 

[BaileyMan]

Thanks all. Yeah, I know it's not possible to provide a 100% accurate answer because, as has been said, it depends on a variety of factors. It's helpful to know that one might lose 20-30% of the weight for a typical fender type bass though.

 

[Gilmourisgod]

To me, a more important factor would be somehow predicting balance, though from asking previously, this might involve the term "centroids", at which point im probably out in the Math-yness department. 1.75" body always seemed unnecessarily thick to me. It seems like thats one place you can shave some weight right from the getgo. I have a one piece mahogany body a built years ago, thinking of shaving it down to 1-1/2" and re-countouring it a little.

 

[TerribleTim68]

To me, a more important factor would be somehow predicting balance, though from asking previously, this might involve the term "centroids", at which point im probably out in the Math-yness department. 1.75" body always seemed unnecessarily thick to me. It seems like thats one place you can shave some weight right from the getgo. I have a one piece mahogany body a built years ago, thinking of shaving it down to 1-1/2" and re-countouring it a little.

I built Lucifer at 1-1/2" thick, mostly because I didn't know any better (and a thinner body sounded better, I like the look). And now I'm seeing some issues that have popped up. Originally I was gonna run 3 pups with a 5-weay rotating switch. But I can't find a rotating switch that will fit in a cavity I can rout, that extra 1/4" made a difference there. So I guess just know your hardware first.

 

[Capy]

To me, a more important factor would be somehow predicting balance, though from asking previously, this might involve the term "centroids", at which point im probably out in the Math-yness department. 1.75" body always seemed unnecessarily thick to me. It seems like thats one place you can shave some weight right from the getgo. I have a one piece mahogany body a built years ago, thinking of shaving it down to 1-1/2" and re-countouring it a little.

If unloaded body weighs 4 lbs @13/4” thickness. Theoretically 4/1.75x1.5 =3.43lbs or .57 lbs /1/4” unloaded body weight sustain would most likely suffer and Watch balance as you could wind up with a neck heavy useless bass

 

[Slidlow]

Speaking of thickness and considering why people thin bodies out (save weight, ergonomics etc) I personally have always found instruments with thin bodies very "toy" like. I would prefer chambering, coring or otherwise hollowing to reduce weight. And then there's the hardware issue you just found. If I went thin then I couldn't have as easily done this side mounted control panel (there is a belly cut at the back as well). For me about 1 5/8" is about as thin as I go before it starts to fall into the "toy" area from my perspective.

 

[JeezyMcNuggles]

A search didn't turn up any threads...

I'm wanting to take the next step up in building a bass. I want to make the body from a blank. I'm wondering what an approximate final body weight will be based on the weight of the blank.

I know the answer will depend on a variety of factors, but is there a ball park figure? 70%, 80%, 90% of the weight of the blank?

Thanks for any tips!

~ 6 lb body will be ~ 10lb bass

Adjust from there depending on body weight.

So, body + 4 lbs

Neck is ~ 2lbs
Hardware is ~ 2lbs

 

[micguy]

This is from my bench last night. 1pc swamp ash 51 P-Bass (no arm or tummy carves).
Not seen one on Warmoth as light as this. Would be under 4 pounds if I added the carves and round over of a ‘55.
View attachment 4137452

Really light bodies do show up on Warmoth, but ya gotta be quick - they go pretty fast. I have a couple of P's (yes, they have cutouts) that both weighed 3 punds, 4 ounces (actually, a bit less once the pickup routes were carved) - one is a 4 string body, the other a 5. I have bought about 10 bodies from them (for myself and others that I've built basses for) - all but one were under 4 pounds.

The Warmoth showcase (bodies they have made on spec that are for sale) is a decent place to go to get some idea of the weight of a body you're making - if you know the wood and body style, you can go there and see what theirs weigh.

 

[micguy]

~ 6 lb body will be ~ 10lb bass

Adjust from there depending on body weight.

So, body + 4 lbs

Neck is ~ 2lbs
Hardware is ~ 2lbs

Aluminum hardware will get you less weight - my 6.6 pound P has a 3.25 pound body, so hardware, neck, pots, knobs and strings (yes they do weight something) all total are about 3 and a third pounds.

 

[JeezyMcNuggles]

Aluminum hardware will get you less weight - my 6.6 pound P has a 3.25 pound body, so hardware, neck, pots, knobs and strings (yes they do weight something) all total are about 3 and a third pounds.

Exactly what I said. Body + (~ 4lbs) = Total

 

[BaileyMan]

Speaking of thickness and considering why people thin bodies out (save weight, ergonomics etc) I personally have always found instruments with thin bodies very "toy" like. I would prefer chambering, coring or otherwise hollowing to reduce weight. And then there's the hardware issue you just found. If I went thin then I couldn't have as easily done this side mounted control panel (there is a belly cut at the back as well). For me about 1 5/8" is about as thin as I go before it starts to fall into the "toy" area from my perspective.View attachment 4138181

That's a beauty!

 

[Slidlow]

That's a beauty!

Thank you. Check here for its replacement.
6 string Fretless with Ebony Neck

 

[johnh89]

This ones going to be a monster then . Weights are in KG so for you folks over the pond . Body alone is 8lb 2 1/4 oz and body and neck (no hardware ) is 10lb 1oz . White ash 66 slab body . EMG GZR pickups . I like heavy . I have spent a life chucking heavy stuff around for a living so a bass that might weigh a mere 14lb .... whats not to like .

 

[Big B.]

Speaking of thickness and considering why people thin bodies out (save weight, ergonomics etc) I personally have always found instruments with thin bodies very "toy" like. I would prefer chambering, coring or otherwise hollowing to reduce weight. And then there's the hardware issue you just found. If I went thin then I couldn't have as easily done this side mounted control panel (there is a belly cut at the back as well). For me about 1 5/8" is about as thin as I go before it starts to fall into the "toy" area from my perspective.View attachment 4138181

I imagine the basses we spend time with when we are learning have a big influence on these things. I never really owned a fender until I recently made a P bass copy and always played more slim instruments so anything over 1 5/8" thick feels comically large to me. My body design is pretty streamlined and I liked fully rounded edges so I use a 3/4" round over to profile the edge. I make my bodies 1 9/16" thick and running the 3/4" leaves an almost fully rounded edge that sands in very nicely. None of the pots or preamps I commonly use are an issue with the smaller depth. I've gone as thin as 1 3/8" with a solid wenge and maple neck through. I like the feeling of the thinner bass bringing everything in closer to my body but like I said thats just a matter of preference based on what I'm used to. I totally get why someone else would prefer the exact opposite.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

Just for comparison, my Scroll Bass bodies are fairly large in length and width, but they are only 1.40" thick. And, they are heavily chambered out inside, in addition to the big heavily-undercut F-holes.

I do all that partly to reduce weight, but mostly to soften the body structure; reduce its stiffness. This brings out warmth and background coloration in the mid-range. The overall body thickness plays a big part in the body's stiffness. In my experience, bodies over 1 1/2" thick are usually stiff enough that they won't have much effect on warming up the tone.

Yes, under 1 1/2", you have to check carefully that pickups and controls will fit inside.

 

[Gilmourisgod]

I wish i had a better understanding of how a bass will balance before its done, beyond the standard rules of thumb. I'd rather have a a well balanced heavy bass than a neck diving light one, unless its so featherweight (like a Hofner) that even a moderately grippy strap kills the dive. I've read methods for predicting weight and balance, but they lost me at "centroids". My current build was planned as 1-1/2" body thickness, but due to various errors on my part, will end up closer to 1-3/8". Rics are 1-1/4" thick, and the electronics fit, but only because they are mounted in a thin pickguard. I dont see how you could go much thinner on something with a wood top, but maybe with Alpha mini pots and micro-switches. If you go too thin, you have to worry about the knobs punching through the top if you drop it on its face.