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Boogie 400+ 1982?
- Thread starter Robb5150
- Start date
The 400+ started production in 89. Lots of us have found inaccurate/earlier dates printed on D-180/400/400+'s
but you'll find the hand written dates on several large blue caps inside the amp a more accurate date it was built.
Or you can call Mesa with your serial # asking what year it is:
http://www.mesaboogie.com/US/info.html
Quote from 400+ manual:
http://www.mesaboogie.com/manuals/Bass 400 Plus.pdf
GROUND SWITCHES
A three-position ground switch is provided to help in reducing buzz originating in the AC
power. It is advisable to leave this toggle switch in the center “OFF” position unless
position A or B reduces buss. With the ground switch in its center position, any residual
shock between the 400 and other equipment (microphones, guitar amps, etc.) cannot
possibly be originating in the Bass 400. Another type of ground switch is located at the
extreme right end of the upper chassis rear. This switch "floats" or isolates the internal
signal ground from the metal chassis. It may be helpful in rack installation, where ground
loops and ground hum might otherwise be caused by contact with rack rails. A safety wire
ground (connecting to the ground pin on the AC mains plug) is internally wired and
remains connected at all times.
but you'll find the hand written dates on several large blue caps inside the amp a more accurate date it was built.
Or you can call Mesa with your serial # asking what year it is:
http://www.mesaboogie.com/US/info.html
Quote from 400+ manual:
http://www.mesaboogie.com/manuals/Bass 400 Plus.pdf
GROUND SWITCHES
A three-position ground switch is provided to help in reducing buzz originating in the AC
power. It is advisable to leave this toggle switch in the center “OFF” position unless
position A or B reduces buss. With the ground switch in its center position, any residual
shock between the 400 and other equipment (microphones, guitar amps, etc.) cannot
possibly be originating in the Bass 400. Another type of ground switch is located at the
extreme right end of the upper chassis rear. This switch "floats" or isolates the internal
signal ground from the metal chassis. It may be helpful in rack installation, where ground
loops and ground hum might otherwise be caused by contact with rack rails. A safety wire
ground (connecting to the ground pin on the AC mains plug) is internally wired and
remains connected at all times.
The chassis was designed in 1982, so they all say "1982 Mesa Boogie" on the back.
Usually the build date is written on the caps if you remove the bottom cover. BE CAREFUL!!!! the caps can zap you! Dont' touch them while the amp is plugged in, or if you recently played it.
Usually the build date is written on the caps if you remove the bottom cover. BE CAREFUL!!!! the caps can zap you! Dont' touch them while the amp is plugged in, or if you recently played it.
Thanks guys. Its from 94.
The 3position switch isn't there at all. Maybe a UK mains thing?
I'm going to get it overhauled as it really doesn't have the volume or headroom I was expecting. Hopefully its an easy fix.
I also have a guy I can get an SVT 2 from so will have fun A/Bing them.
Cheers.
The 3position switch isn't there at all. Maybe a UK mains thing?
I'm going to get it overhauled as it really doesn't have the volume or headroom I was expecting. Hopefully its an easy fix.
I also have a guy I can get an SVT 2 from so will have fun A/Bing them.
Cheers.
First thing make sure its Effects Blend knob on the back is always set back to 0 (unless your using the loop)
Also your tone knobs can be kinda tricky to first time users and cause complaints of low volume/headroom.
Try these tone knob settings as your starting point:
Bass-2
Mid-8 to 10
Treble-2
Then plug your bass into the channel 2 input with its volume knob up to around 6,
and then bring up your master to see if you still think its not loud enough.
What cabs are you using?
Hi, thanks.
I'm using a Mesa 1615 and also have an EBS 4x10 classic. The EBS sounds tighter/nicer to my ear.
I'll definitely do as you recommend. I think the amp has it's original valves so will pick a set up. I was just surprised at the overall lack of clarity and volume.
I ran it up next to a 50watt Marshall JMP with boogie 1x12 recto cab and could really only just keep up.
I'm using a Mesa 1615 and also have an EBS 4x10 classic. The EBS sounds tighter/nicer to my ear.
I'll definitely do as you recommend. I think the amp has it's original valves so will pick a set up. I was just surprised at the overall lack of clarity and volume.
I ran it up next to a 50watt Marshall JMP with boogie 1x12 recto cab and could really only just keep up.
Cool, I started out using a Mesa 1516BE roadready cab when I first got my 400+. At that time my guitarists were cranking a JMP-50 halfstack and a Twin Reverb. I always got plenty of volume out of this combination:
I have a non + and I have a SVT 2 non-pro in the mail ... I too am looking forward to A/Bing them ... Cheers.
Cool,
Is the 1615 worth holding onto? Cos I'm thinking of shopping it and trying to get hold of a power house 2x10 n flight casing it with the head for a portable no compromise pub gig rig.
No one on the London toilet circuit has anything that can touch my bass rig at the moment and I don't even think the amp is working at 100%! but gees if the 1615 isn't an arse to lug around.
Is the 1615 worth holding onto? Cos I'm thinking of shopping it and trying to get hold of a power house 2x10 n flight casing it with the head for a portable no compromise pub gig rig.
No one on the London toilet circuit has anything that can touch my bass rig at the moment and I don't even think the amp is working at 100%! but gees if the 1615 isn't an arse to lug around.
Cool, I started out using a Mesa 1516BE roadready cab when I first got my 400+. At that time my guitarists were cranking a JMP-50 halfstack and a Twin Reverb. I always got plenty of volume out of this combination:
I had that same cab but not road ready. Those 6's could not handle any low end at all. Maybe they were abused before I got it though.
6's aren't supposed to handle low end. they should be crossed over to the woofers. don't tell me they didn't cross them over...that would be madness!
robb, always a good idea to have your head checked out if you think it's not up to snuff, but the 500w rating is peak power, not rms, so in case you were expecting 500w of clean power, don't
about half of that is reasonable to expect in clean power.
robb, always a good idea to have your head checked out if you think it's not up to snuff, but the 500w rating is peak power, not rms, so in case you were expecting 500w of clean power, don't
about half of that is reasonable to expect in clean power.Cheers Jimmy,
Just bought it cos we were not getting enough level from a 500watt ashdown? Don't know the model, a 2u silver thing thru an EBS 4x10,
The Boogie is such a tweakers amp. It sounds awesome at a low volume but I thought it would really trounce the 50watt Marshall.
I'm spoiled cos I work for a PA company and we were building a sill bass rig every rehearsal at the warehouse.
d&b audiotechnic rig
2x18 sub
2x10 mid top,
Still the old Marshall valve with the boogie recto cab cuts thru,
Just want a 0 compromise bass rig so got the 400+. Power house 2x10?? Can get one for £450?!
Just bought it cos we were not getting enough level from a 500watt ashdown? Don't know the model, a 2u silver thing thru an EBS 4x10,
The Boogie is such a tweakers amp. It sounds awesome at a low volume but I thought it would really trounce the 50watt Marshall.
I'm spoiled cos I work for a PA company and we were building a sill bass rig every rehearsal at the warehouse.
d&b audiotechnic rig
2x18 sub
2x10 mid top,
Still the old Marshall valve with the boogie recto cab cuts thru,
Just want a 0 compromise bass rig so got the 400+. Power house 2x10?? Can get one for £450?!
