Double Bass Bow Tension

[Steve Freides]

The longer I play, the more I seem to want to loosen the tension on my bow. For whatever reason, when I first started, I felt like I couldn't make it sound decent with having it really tight, and now I find myself loosening it pretty regularly. I'm still nowhere near bottoming out on forte passages.

Any comments on this appreciated, especially along the lines of exactly what is different (and hopefully better) about my playing now as compared to a few months ago when I started.

(If it matters, I'm playing a composite bow now and have my first wooden bow on the way. I started with the Glasser fiberglass, and I bow German exclusively and will probably keep it that way until I feel like I've mastered it a whole lot more, at which point I'd like to learn how to bow French, also.)

Thanks in advance.

-S-

 

[Jake]

Hey Steve, if you fill out your profile it'd be easier to give you comments/advise. Bow tension like the amount of rosin you use is a pretty personal thing. I try to use as little rosin as possible and keep my bow more tense than where the stick hits the strings. Sometimes, when playing heavy spicato, it can be necessary to use more rosin. When doing this, it helps not to have super tight bow hair. One thing that would probably help you a lot is to get a wooden bow. Those plastic bows don't handle well nor do they usually get a very good sound. A decent brasilwood bow can be had for around $100.

 

[Steve Freides]

I just filled out my profile, but my situation is unusual and, since I've explained it in several other forums here already, I'm loath to repeat for fear of boring everyone. Briefly:

Lifelong musician, perfect pitch
D.Ma and M.A. in choral conducting
B.M. voice, was also classical guitar major in college

Theory and Ear-Training Faculty, Mannes College, NYC, from 1988 to 1997.

Currently part-time Faculty, Bergen Comm. College, NJ

Private instructor since 1971.

I don't gig much, I mostly teach.

I got a fretless electric for the first time in April, 2007.

I got my first upright at the end of October, 2007, and after having exactly 1 lesson, my teacher asked me to fill in for a week-long run of a show she couldn't play. I've had two lessons so far, and playing shows, jazz, etc., as long as it's mostly pizz, I sound, in all modesty, like a pro who's been doing it for years.

I'm trying to learn to use a bow and making good progress and, after having started with a fiberglass bow and a borrowed wooden bow, I stepped up to a composite bow about a month ago, and I just recently ordered my first wooden bow but it hasn't gotten here yet. I have, even among musicians, exceptionally good ears, and they've come in quite handy learning to play the upright bass.

I'm basically working my way through Simandl, and also doing things on my own like playing from "24 Italian Art Songs and Aria" with my wife on piano, or other vocal and instrumental music, and having a lesson once every month or two.

FWIW, I also play the French Horn, having taken that up about 4 years ago - I read it at concert pitch, using mezzo-soprano clef to make everything come out correctly - learning a transposing instrument just wasn't going to happen as I can't tolerate looking at one pitch and playing another.

-S-

 

[Andrew McGregor]

Well, I think it's just the learning curve. It takes a while to get the feel for starting the note and controlling the bow's bounce, and it is easier to start with a bit higher tension than you'll eventually want to use.

BTW, if by composite you mean carbon fiber, that's perhaps not an awful bow. There's a world of difference between carbon and fiberglass, and a good carbon bow can be quite nice.

 

[Steve Freides]

Well, I think it's just the learning curve. It takes a while to get the feel for starting the note and controlling the bow's bounce, and it is easier to start with a bit higher tension than you'll eventually want to use.

Thanks - that makes sense.

BTW, if by composite you mean carbon fiber, that's perhaps not an awful bow. There's a world of difference between carbon and fiberglass, and a good carbon bow can be quite nice.

If you look up Glasser bows, you find this on their web site:

1. Standard Fiberglass Bows
2. Premium Fiberglass Bows
3. Advanced Composite Bows
4. Carbon Graphite Bows
5. X-Series Carbon Graphite Bows 6. Braided Carbon Fibre Bows

I started with #2, then bought #3, which they describe as "proprietary composite fiber." It didn't cost much, and so far for me, its performance is in keeping with its price, namely better than fiberglass but worse than wood. I suspect that #4 and #5 above are what you're talking about as being good kinds of bows.

-S-

 

[Andrew McGregor]

Well, mine would fit in category #6; it's a David Gage Metropolitan, which is a nice bow, especially for the price. Yes, you can get wood bows that are better, but you'll pay around $1500 or more… and the Gage is around $700.

 

[Steve Freides]

Well, mine would fit in category #6; it's a David Gage Metropolitan, which is a nice bow, especially for the price. Yes, you can get wood bows that are better, but you'll pay around $1500 or more… and the Gage is around $700.

My bass is a starter instrument so I don't want to go hog wild on a bow at this point - a better instrument is also something I need to consider.

When you mentioned yours was a 6 - and you're quite correct about that - if you'll forgive me, what came to mind was Spinal Tap and the amp with an 11 setting on the volume control.

Thanks again for your help - it is much appreciated.

-S-