Not surprising on a MIM neck. Depending on how bad the ski jump is, fret level and fall away could remedy it.
^^^^^ Yup!
All the truss twistin' in the world, ain't gonna fix a ski jump.
Recently, I came upon a method to get significant fallaway,
*if* there's enough fret height to lose; it's similar to, "flossing", the heel of an acoustic guitar, when doing a neck reset.
Under each string's, "lie", I use one of my u-channel leveling tools, about 7" long, so it bridges from the last fret, back to F14-15, which is usually where the ski jump starts. I firmly dress these frets,
going in one direction only, towards the bridge. This ensures that the frets closer to the end of the fingerboard, have more material removed, very obvious when using this method. Recrown & polish, good to go.
I have a couple of dial indicator based tools, one set to measure relief at F7, another set to measure ski jump masquerading as relief, at the midpoint between F12/14, and the last fret. The amount of faux relief measured by the latter tool, is how much needs to be removed form the last fret,
just to make this are dead level--I add 10-20 thou, get get the fret fallaway. I've been just dee-lighted with this method1
The caveats are: can't have more faux relief than you can remove by removing fret metal; when ski jump is bad, it's partial/full refret time.
I'll post pics of this, sometime, but I'm in the middle (well, endgame)of moving.
