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Bridge placement?

Stilettoprefer

Stilettoprefer

Nov 26, 2010
2,011
163
#1
I just got my GFS P body today and I need to drill for the bridge. How many inches is it from the base of the neck (center) to the edge of a standard fender-style bent metal bridge?

EDIT: or do I just measure 34" from the nut and place the D-string saddle at that distance?
 
#3
berwick63 said:
I believe the correct way is to measure Nut to 12th fret, whatever the measurement there, take from the 12th fret to the Center of the new bridge. I'm not positive on this, but I believe if you put it on center, that allows to adjust intonation back and forward from the 34'' scale
Click to expand...

That makes a lot of sense! Thank you!!!
 
#4
One of the most asked questions. Should be stickied.

Nut to 12th fret = 12th fret to either a)bridge saddle witness points with saddles in neck-most position, if you believe that physics and everyone's experience is real, or b)bridge saddle witness points with saddles 1/8" short of neck-most position, if you want to hedge your bet.

Intonation adjustment only requires the saddles to be moved back, not forwards.
 
#6
I did a search and nothing useful came up so I decided to start a thread. Thanks for the tips guys! I'll be doing this tomorrow if I can find the time!

Also, while I have a thread open, whats a good way to plug the stupid pre-drilled holes in the neck pocket? They don't work at all for the neck I have:P
 
#7
Musiclogic said:
If you have a string that intonates sharp, the saddle will need to move forward.
Click to expand...

Precisely why I'll be going slightly more towards the center of the bridge.

I'm drilling all the holes and doing a mock up and quick setup to make sure that the bridge is correctly placed before finishing. so if the bridge needs to be moved after the first try, I'll be able to easily.
 
#8
give yourself 1/8" to 5/32" of forward play, if you put all of the saddles at 5/32" short of full extension, you will have plenty of room for adjustment.

As for plugging the holes, find out what size they are, and goto home depot and buy the corresponding size of dowel rod, and glue the rod into the holes with some titebond
 
#9
Musiclogic said:
give yourself 1/8" to 5/32" of forward play, if you put all of the saddles at 5/32" short of full extension, you will have plenty of room for adjustment.

As for plugging the holes, find out what size they are, and goto home depot and buy the corresponding size of dowel rod, and glue the rod into the holes with some titebond
Click to expand...

Thanks much!:) I'll make sure to leave 5/32" of forward play on the bridge!

And I should be able to run into home depot tomorrow and pick up some dowel rod!
 
#10
Musiclogic said:
If you have a string that intonates flat, the saddle will need to move forward.
Click to expand...
JC

Have you ever had this happen? I once started a thread specifically to find out about this, and no one had ever had it actually happen, there were just people who were afraid it might. So the interpretation then was that forward adjustment space was actually unnecessary.

In a theoretical string, it would never be necessary. Obviously reality can depart from theory, but at that time there was no evidence that it did.
 
#11
My Ibanez Ergodyne 5 is a 34'' scale, the saddles adjustments can go down to 33 1/2'', or as high as 34 1/2''. Which the B string is bottomed out as it's never intonated correctly, always juuust a little sharp. Solution:tune the B just a little flat so fretted notes are correct.

On topic, though, I'm not sure, I think it really varies on what the maximum adjustments are on the bridge. If it's 34'' scale, you wouldn't want the saddles to be able to adjust to 35'', would you? Or would you..? haha. I wouldn't think so.
 
#12
Stilettoprefer said:
I just got my GFS P body today and I need to drill for the bridge. How many inches is it from the base of the neck (center) to the edge of a standard fender-style bent metal bridge?

EDIT: or do I just measure 34" from the nut and place the D-string saddle at that distance?
Click to expand...

I measure for 34" from the nut. Then I place the bridge saddles half way point at 34" so I have about a 1/2" play in either direction
 
#13
pilotjones said:
JC

Have you ever had this happen? I once started a thread specifically to find out about this, and no one had ever had it actually happen, there were just people who were afraid it might. So the interpretation then was that forward adjustment space was actually unnecessary.

In a theoretical string, it would never be necessary. Obviously reality can depart from theory, but at that time there was no evidence that it did.
Click to expand...

I've had it happen on my tele numerous times... 3 saddle adjustment systems are hell for intonating.
 
#14
pilotjones said:
JC

Have you ever had this happen? I once started a thread specifically to find out about this, and no one had ever had it actually happen, there were just people who were afraid it might. So the interpretation then was that forward adjustment space was actually unnecessary.

In a theoretical string, it would never be necessary. Obviously reality can depart from theory, but at that time there was no evidence that it did.
Click to expand...

Yeah Pete, it is more common than you might think. More so with guitars, but I see it in about 2 of every 5 or 6 setups I do.

This is where theory is trumped by material and manufacturing inconsistencies. ;)
 
#15
I haven't come across any instruments that need to be intonated so that the string length is shorter than the scale length. Although when I build I do leave a small amount of forward adjustment just in case.
 

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