Bridge saddle adjustment...

[Boozy]

Okay, simple question...

When you guys setup your bass, and raise or lower your bridge saddles, do you keep each saddle parallel to the bass body, or do you sortof create a curve with all four saddles?

Either way the saddles/strings would still be adjusted to accomidate the curve/radius of the fingerboard, I was just curious if it is normal to keep each of th 2 set screws on each saddle adjusted evenly or if people generally create a curve (maybe so it is more comfortable/less bumpy to touch)..

Thanks.

 

[seanm]

Okay, simple question... When you guys setup your bass, and raise or lower your bridge saddles, do you keep each saddle parallel to the bass body, or do you sort of create a curve with all four saddles?

If I have individual saddles, I keep them parrallel to the bass. With the two strings per saddle bridges, I curve them (triangle really /\ ) to get the fretboard radius.

 

[zombywoof5050]

If they're flat, they are more likely to slide around.
With them angled, it helps keep the saddles bunched up against each other and they don't slide around as much.

 

[Stingraymund]

How does one adjust the saddles to an accurate radius?
My Musicman Stingray 5 has the E and A saddles the same level, the D slightly lower and the G really low. The B saddle is slightly lower than the E and and far sides of the B and G saddles are angled slightly downward.

 

[luknfur]

How does one adjust the saddles to an accurate radius?
My Musicman Stingray 5 has the E and A saddles the same level, the D slightly lower and the G really low. The B saddle is slightly lower than the E and and far sides of the B and G saddles are angled slightly downward.

Personally mine is dictated by string height. I lift 'em till they don't buzz and that's my radius, albeit it a canted one because the heavier gauge strings are relatively higher. But there's a definite arc as you you look down the bridge. I use TI Jazz flats so it ends up medium action or better due to the low tension strings. I don't recall seeing mention of "the proper" way to do so. I could see pluses for flat or radius. If flat they'd probably be easier to makes runs across strings and the spacing between pup height and strings would be more consistent, though the pup spacing factor I would think to be insignificant. With the a radius you can drop your strings as low as the board will allow.

The radius/bridge relationship is something that has occurred to me but as long I stick with low tension strings, it's not something I'll be dealing with any time soon.