Double Bass Bridge Setup/Shaping Instruction

[unbrokenchain]

And painter's tape?

Yep. My strategy is generally to carve a concave in the bottom of the bridge feet leaving just the edges, and then run the bridge over the sandpaper taped to the top of the bass (in only one direction, every time I go both ways it rounds the edges without a jig) until there is little, ideally no concave left, feet fully flush. I've also learned that spending time sharpening my knife saves me a lot of sanding time

 

[james condino]

........... I've also learned that spending time sharpening my knife saves me a lot of sanding time

 

[BucketOfFish]

I'm fairly sure the OP bought a bridge with adjusters installed like I have.

You fit the bridge to the instrument, then the adjusters to the bridge.

I bought a bridge w/adjusters pre-installed (I presume the OP did the same). For a few reasons*, I'm committed to proceed this time. I have determined that the thickness of the adjuster wheel has been removed from the bridge. I built the jig that I posted for a cost of $0 using materials laying around (1/4" plywood, fender washers, carriage bolt and wing nut.) It's only purpose to me is to clamp the feet/bridge while contouring the bottom. I'm taking my time and probably over thinking it. I am continuing to do my homework and may have questions fairly soon (with pics!)

*I would like to have it done by an experienced luthier but, that would involve close to 10 hours of driving, gas @ $4.30 a gallon in an uncomfortable van @15 mpg and luthier expenses (unless it could be knocked out same day which would cut everything in half plus expedited fee). So next time, after recovering from a surgery that prohibits me from lifting heavy stuff for a few months, i will drag out the drill press and do it in the suggested manner.

 

[KUNGfuSHERIFF]

It’s your time and money. An experienced luthier will be able to fit a bridge in an hour or so that will last you 20 years or more if the blank is good. Buy once, cry once.

 

[1st Bass]

On the other hand, doing it yourself, you learn a new skill. And, if you have to do it more than once, it still is far less expensive that just the drive to the professional luthier.

There was a time when it was possible to save money by driving across the continent to visit family. But, recently I had to compare the cost of a flight to another city that is a 12-hour drive away... so, a 24-hour round trip. I get about 20 mpg, so at 60mph, the gas alone is costing me about $11/hr. while driving.
Thus the drive down and back would have cost me $264, just for gas, let alone wear on the vehicle and two long days of driving.

Airfare? $145 round trip, and I could be down and back the same day.

Sometimes doing things yourself is a good idea. Sometimes not. Learning to fit bridges is one I consider to be well-worth the time and expense.

 

[james condino]

"I can fit your bridge for a day or teach you to fit your bridges for a lifetime..."

 

[eh_train]

...An experienced luthier will be able to fit a bridge in an hour or so that will last you 20 years...

Agreed about a bridge lasting 20 years, assuming some basic care is taken to maintain it.

But an hour or so for fitting a bridge? You won't find a "Bridges Fitted While You Wait" sign in my shop! I'd say it takes me 3 hours to fit the feet, insert the adjusters, cut the crown, and tweak things until they're just right. And that's definitely without someone looking over my shoulder.

I'd be interested to hear from others (others who have cut more than a few bridges) on their working time.

 

[KUNGfuSHERIFF]

I was inelegant. Back before I did my own work I paid a luthier an hour’s wage to reshape the bridge on a bass I intended to flip.

 

[1st Bass]

Many tasks in lutherie I have had to learn the hard way, by doing them over and over. But... I learned them! The time spent was considered to be my tuition. And, thereafter, there was never a question of “should I take it to someone...?” I had *become* that “someone!”

 

[Greg Clinkingbeard]

Many tasks in lutherie I have had to learn the hard way, by doing them over and over. But... I learned them! The time spent was considered to be my tuition. And, thereafter, there was never a question of “should I take it to someone...?” I had *become* that “someone!”

I was blessed to work in a large shop for years punching a time clock which allowed me to learn on someone else’s dime. Also, the value of learning by osmosis was invaluable, showing me that everyone has a slightly different approach to skinning cats.

 

[eh_train]

I was inelegant.

All is forgiven.

In future, please keep in mind our responsibility to keep TB $*&%**** elegant!

 

[eh_train]

I'd be interested to hear from others (others who have cut more than a few bridges) on their working time.

Anybody? I'd like to be able to compare notes...

 

[JBarz]

I take a whole 8 hr day usually, but my chops are novice at best. I make up for lack of experience with lots and lots of patience to get it just right.

 

[Michael Drost]

Anybody? I'd like to be able to compare notes...

2-3 hours, including adjusters and tweaking…

 

[unbrokenchain]

I've carved a total of six or seven bridges now all told, and that's enough times for me to be confident that I can do it correctly next time, also enough times that I'm very happy to pay someone else to do it more quickly, and, uh, elegantly.

 

[1st Bass]

If the OP were asking my counsel (and he is not) I would recommend buying a good book (Chuck Traeger’s comes to mind) and two or three inexpensive big reasonable-quality plain bridges, without adjusters, and TRY it!

The experience will be priceless, and you will gain confidence and self-esteem with zero harm to the bass.

Having successfully fit, say, three bridges, perhaps at slightly different heights, order a set of adjusters, and cautiously move through that learning curve. (Ruin a bridge? Very Possibly. But this is how we learn. And you may even get it right on the first or second try)

 

[james condino]

Keep in mind there is a tremendous difference in what people find acceptable bridge work. Some are meticulous and beautiful artistic craftwork while others are barely crude folk art. Some gradually remove 1/3 of the total blank mass; others look like they just scrape the top on the sidewalk for 30 seconds and call it good. When I use a $150+ fancy European bridge blank for a 200 year old instrument, you can guarantee I put more care and effort into that job.

Cut, fit, "guillotine" the feet, drill, tap, final setup, adjustment, varnishing, plus stroking the customer for at least 45-60 minutes on pickup time, then a 30 day checkup and fit adjustment when everything settles in....all the while praying that there is not a hidden weak spot in the bridge blank that causes it to break or strip out or some other malfunction and then you just lost a $60+ blank need another......

It is always a lot more efficient to install adjusters on multiple bridges at once, but who wants to be the adjuster &^%$# for 8 hours straight???

If anything, I'd guess they take more time than they used to because I fuss over the details more now than in the past and my expectations are higher.

Minimum of 4+ hours; sometimes on the custom end I may spend 10+ spread out over multiple sessions, especially if it is part of a matching theme like these:

 

[KUNGfuSHERIFF]

Freaking rockabilly weirdos. Let the Blue Oyster Cult references go already!

 

[Greg Clinkingbeard]

After the first hundred or so I made a jig to keep the bridge perfectly vertical when drilling the holes. This is after an hour or more fitting the feet. Then, I tap the threads, ‘guillotine’ HA! The bridge and fit the adjusters. There is the occasional adjustment to make everything fit and get the adjusters right. Final shaping and carving takes a minimum of an hour. I allow 3-4 hours.

 

[james condino]

The Blue Oyster Cult reference is perfect: the Bouchard brothers grew up 4 doors down the street from me when I was a kid!!!!