I just bought my first bass and managed to tune 4 out of the 5 strings using a tuner. I can't get the B string to quite get in tune on the 12 fret as I run out of adjustment range on the bridge. Open is spot on; I just cant lengthen the string on the bridge any more to bring the 12 fret into tune. My neck is supposed to be a 34" but when I measured it it was slightly below 17" from the edge of the nut to the 12 fret. There is slight relief on the neck but it doesn't look significant. According to my tuner I'm stuck about 10% sharp. Any insight?
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Bridge won't compensate enough; 12th fret about 10% sharp.
- Thread starter bbbeavis
- Start date
I assume you've attempted to adjust the bridge/saddle height? This will change things. Please don't respond saying that you need action to the 32nd or 64th of an inch lol. Making sure you have proper neck relief is also important and there are ways of checking that which escape me. However relief is also a taste thing. I've always been curious as to how many positions on a string you can get with perfect intonation. Scale length is the distance from the nut to the 12th fret times 2 (so you're right that it's a 34" scale) Why this is the measure of neck length, I have no idea...
I wonder if the string is not properly seated in the nut and/or bridge. If not that - you just bought this instrument. Is taking back to the store for a setup a possibility? Many stores offer this service free or discounted with purchase.
You didn't mention what kind of bass you have, or how old your strings are. Dead/used strings may never intonate properly.
Sometimes you can get a little more adjustment by removing the adjustment spring so the saddle can move back farther. You can also reverse some saddles for a little more length.
Be sure you set the break angle on the B string at the bridge saddle and/or nut or it may never intonate properly.
Ric5
Inactive
- Jan 29, 2008
- 29,772
- 30,452
- Disclosures
- I like 5, 8, 10, and 12 string basses
Oh and on a long shot... Is your tuner set to a standard frequency (such as A=440Hz)? The further off it is from a modern standard, the more difficult it may be to achieve intonation.
If that neck is not what originally came with that body(even if both are meant for same scale length), than proper intonation may be out of the bridges limits. Case in point, I put a peavey T40 neck on a 1st generation Peavey Fury, same brand, same scale length, neck fit pocket like a glove. When it came time to adjust intonation, I bottomed out the saddles before getting it intonated. Turns out that the Fury body was made for a 34" scale length with 21 frets and the T40 is 34" scale length with 20 frets. The shorter total length of the T40 pushed the intonation points of the saddles closer to the bottom strap button, to a point that was mechanically impossible for the bridge saddles. Solution was to move the saddle back 3/4" or get a 21 fret neck. You say it's your first bass, used bass?
a 34 is a 34-
number of frets do not change a thing length wise; common misconception.
something else must have been going on.
It seems like a body designed for 34" scale 24 frets would have the pocket closer to the bridge. A bass designed for 20 frets at the same scale would have to place the neck further away from the bridge.
right, so same scale length plus an extra fret adds whatever length that extra fret is to length of the neck.
Yep. I still have one Mex P that I had to move the bridge forward 5/8 (!) and up (toward the E) 5/32" to set it where it needed to be.
It happens sometimes.
It's a decent bass now, especially since Andy Elliott Pleked and set it up for me.
Ric5
Inactive
- Jan 29, 2008
- 29,772
- 30,452
- Disclosures
- I like 5, 8, 10, and 12 string basses
yep ... as long as the extra screw holes are hidden by the bridge plate and the bridge is put back on straight then all is good.
Also this is an excellent time to upgrade to a better bridge.
Also this is an excellent time to upgrade to a better bridge.
Ric5
Inactive
- Jan 29, 2008
- 29,772
- 30,452
- Disclosures
- I like 5, 8, 10, and 12 string basses
you can't just put a neck with more frets onto a body designed for a neck with less frets, unless the extra frets are on an overhanging piece of fret board and the heel location is otherwise the same (See: Warmoth necks).
Can move the bridge back,
or use a shaped spacer in the bottom of the pocket- 1/4"- 3/8" would prob work.
Will still be 34" scale, just that the nut-to-G string 34" can be farther forward on the bridge
and allowing room for the B to intonate.
...Cosmetics?
Relative pickup positioning is something for another discussion...
Or this- "Is the B string taper core/exposed core? If not, you should try one. taper/expose core tend to intonate correctly with the saddle further forward, relative to their non-taper/exposed peers."
(couldn't add a quote after first posting).
or use a shaped spacer in the bottom of the pocket- 1/4"- 3/8" would prob work.
Will still be 34" scale, just that the nut-to-G string 34" can be farther forward on the bridge
and allowing room for the B to intonate.
...Cosmetics?
Relative pickup positioning is something for another discussion...
Or this- "Is the B string taper core/exposed core? If not, you should try one. taper/expose core tend to intonate correctly with the saddle further forward, relative to their non-taper/exposed peers."
(couldn't add a quote after first posting).
Last edited:
Is it a new bass or a second hand one? Does it have an aftermarket bridge? A Badass V perhaps? Because the badass bridge is not a drop in replacement for a fender mount. The holes are a cm forward.
Other thing that could be is that you have to start intonating form one end of the bridge to the other. It could be that you started too far from intonating
Try to really make sure that you just press the string lightly on the twelved fret and not bend it ever so slightly.
Also best to tune on the harmonic on the twelved fret. Not on the open string fifth or harmonic.
Guitars are mostly just intonated at the bridge which makes everything below the 5 to 7the fret intonate better than above.
Thats the reason some manafacturers put compensated nuts on their guitars/basses. I saw some videos and one guy had a difference of 10% on some strings with an uncompensated nut. with a compensated nut had something of 2% on that string
Other thing that could be is that you have to start intonating form one end of the bridge to the other. It could be that you started too far from intonating
Try to really make sure that you just press the string lightly on the twelved fret and not bend it ever so slightly.
Also best to tune on the harmonic on the twelved fret. Not on the open string fifth or harmonic.
Guitars are mostly just intonated at the bridge which makes everything below the 5 to 7the fret intonate better than above.
Thats the reason some manafacturers put compensated nuts on their guitars/basses. I saw some videos and one guy had a difference of 10% on some strings with an uncompensated nut. with a compensated nut had something of 2% on that string
And start with something simple: clip the spring in half so you get a tad more rearwards travel (this is assuming you have a plate bridge and not a tune-o-matic style bridge, like on an Epiphone or Warwick). I've had to do that on almost every bass I've ever owned in the 38+ years I've played bass.
