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Broughton Audio Super Thread

We’re not snobby. I don’t know half of what’s going on here even when we stay on topic.
I just come here to meet chicks.

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So the P-15's and SSDI's are just sitting there waiting for buyers. Clearly this is due to the handles, the old handles moved much quicker, Josh could not keep them in stock. If you could pick these up and retro fit the handles you could sell them for $550 OBO
If someone wants to retrofit an SSDI with the leather handle I would definitely buy it for $550. ;)
 
So.... Spent some more time with the svpre and rumblefish. Finally was able to find the magic of running the RF>svpre. sounded pretty freaking awesome. What I could not find was an svpre setting that I liked with AND without the RF. I could dial it in to sound good on its own, and I could dial it in to sound good with the RF, but not both with the same settings. Which is fine. Still in love with the Azure Drive.
 
So.... Spent some more time with the svpre and rumblefish. Finally was able to find the magic of running the RF>svpre. sounded pretty freaking awesome. What I could not find was an svpre setting that I liked with AND without the RF. I could dial it in to sound good on its own, and I could dial it in to sound good with the RF, but not both with the same settings. Which is fine. Still in love with the Azure Drive.
Yeah, RFE definitely helps the low end and mids on the SVP. And yes, maybe Locust Star aside, out of the Bass Box/Rumblefish/Azure, the Azure is just great for smooth low gain. I can get very similar tones from the 66 but the sensitivity seems to really help BBOD
 
Yeah, RFE definitely helps the low end and mids on the SVP. And yes, maybe Locust Star aside, out of the Bass Box/Rumblefish/Azure, the Azure is just great for smooth low gain. I can get very similar tones from the 66 but the sensitivity seems to really help BBOD

I agree that the 66 can cover some similar ground to the Azure. For sure. The magic between the drive and sensitivity just makes it so dead simple to dial-in exactly what level of breakup you’re looking for for. It’s awesome.

One question on it though for any of you folks that have an Azure — the tone knob. Is it super duper subtle? I mean, I struggle to hear it doing anything through the full sweep of the knob. Maybe it’s because I have a cab Sim running that’s attenuating the high end anyway? Not overly concerned because I like the way it sounds but I was just curious…
 
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I agree that the 66 can cover some similar ground to the Azure. For sure. The magic between the drive and sensitivity just makes it so dead simple to dial-in exactly what level of breakup you’re looking for for. It’s awesome.

One question on it though for any of you folks that have an Azure — the tone knob. Is it super duper subtle? I mean, I struggle to hear it doing anything through the full sweep of the knob. Maybe it’s because I have a cab Sim running that’s attenuating the high end anyway? Not overly concerned because I like the way it sounds but I was just curious…
personally the sens and tone are what I adjust the most, round about its either 3 and 9 o'clock or 9 and 3 (looking at the 2 pots on top), I can really tell when I start going past noon on the tone, or if its cut like crazy, stoner rock to classic rock. I'm guessing if you're already modeling before that it could seem subtle, I don't EQ really at all on the bass or pre so my pedal EQs do most of the work, so I would expect a large change
 
personally the sens and tone are what I adjust the most, round about its either 3 and 9 o'clock or 9 and 3 (looking at the 2 pots on top), I can really tell when I start going past noon on the tone, or if its cut like crazy, stoner rock to classic rock. I'm guessing if you're already modeling before that it could seem subtle, I don't EQ really at all on the bass or pre so my pedal EQs do most of the work, so I would expect a large change
Cool… Thanks for the info definitely just need to experiment more. Try the pedal on its own, try different basses.
 
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Which one of these would be best for a really hot pedal? I'm guessing in between instrument and line level?

Not the SSDI line out, but an ordinary pedal out? I am not an expert but I think you'd probably want the TS mono unbalanced high-impedance (100KΩ) attenuator for that. The line attenuators would present only 7KΩ to the pedal output and might cause trubs.
 
I agree that the 66 can cover some similar ground to the Azure. For sure. The magic between the drive and sensitivity just makes it so dead simple to dial-in exactly what level of breakup you’re looking for for. It’s awesome.

One question on it though for any of you folks that have an Azure — the tone knob. Is it super duper subtle? I mean, I struggle to hear it doing anything through the full sweep of the knob. Maybe it’s because I have a cab Sim running that’s attenuating the high end anyway? Not overly concerned because I like the way it sounds but I was just curious…

BBOD-based circuits seem to have weird tone controls in general.

Really hoping the Azure makes a comeback, or that I can somehow find one. I've grown to really like the Blueberry sound, and I think a shootout between the Azure and Queen Beest would be awesome.
 
Josh responded really quickly:
"It is the TRS cable that is the problem. The sleeve is not ground, it is shield. The shield is not an adequate audio ground reference. You need an XLR to TS cable to do what you are trying to accomplish. Another option would be to make a simple attenuator box to place after the SSDI line out. Use a 50k ohm pot to step it down, and then feed the signal to whatever pedal you want without taking away from the tone of the SSDI."

Problem solved:

38EAE5C1-D88E-42BF-AEA4-979D99F65310.jpeg


I've got a little cleaning up/reorganizing to do, but in case you can't tell from the messy pic, it's:

A bunch of stuff > SSDI > SSDI line out to "E.W.S. Subtle Volume Control" > RFE > Messenger

Glorious, thunderous tone, and it's not going to melt my Messenger. I happened to have the EWS on hand because I used it back in the day to tame the output of an incredibly hot Fender guitar amp. It's just a passive 25 Kohm pot in a box, but it does the job swimmingly. Josh recommended 50kohms, and I'm not smart enough to know the difference or why it would matter, but he said the 25 would work fine, and it seems to. I can totally crank the SSDI and then lower the output with the EWS, and it seems to have no negative impact on my tone.

Thanks for the tips/advice, everyone.
 
Of course, why didn't I think of that! I have a similar gadget from JHS that I put in the FX loop of my Fender Deville.
Prize rescinded. It's funny. That's what I had it for. A Hot Rod Deluxe. Those things are hotter than heck. When I used to play at church I had to put the thing in another room and couldn't even turn it up past 1.5 before it was too loud. (as in the #1, not 1:00).
 
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Prize rescinded. It's funny. That's what I had it for. A Hot Rod Deluxe. Those things are hotter than heck. When I used to play at church I had to put the thing in another room and couldn't even turn it up past 1.5 before it was too loud. (as in the #1, not 1:00).
Yeah the 2x12 Deville is pretty much my first "real" guitar amp. For a 60W combo amp I was shocked how loud it gets. The JHS volume knob does a great job keeping that under control.
 
Problem solved:

View attachment 4153931

I've got a little cleaning up/reorganizing to do, but in case you can't tell from the messy pic, it's:

A bunch of stuff > SSDI > SSDI line out to "E.W.S. Subtle Volume Control" > RFE > Messenger

Glorious, thunderous tone, and it's not going to melt my Messenger. I happened to have the EWS on hand because I used it back in the day to tame the output of an incredibly hot Fender guitar amp. It's just a passive 25 Kohm pot in a box, but it does the job swimmingly. Josh recommended 50kohms, and I'm not smart enough to know the difference or why it would matter, but he said the 25 would work fine, and it seems to. I can totally crank the SSDI and then lower the output with the EWS, and it seems to have no negative impact on my tone.

Thanks for the tips/advice, everyone.

Sounds like it might have been a gain issue.