Looking for suggestions from experienced musicians on budget friendly, lower tensio strings compatible for pizz on a well used King Mortone... thanks!
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Ok... So it sounds like the instrument may currently be setup for guts. Were any of those old strings wound, or were they plain guts (of those gut strings that you've seen)?this would be the first full set of strings on this since I purchased it as the 3 old gut strings were totally shotvfrom lack of care and age.
that's a fair question. At this point I'd like to get a set of strings in place to begin determining what other work may need to be done as far as the action and fine bridge work as that too is going to be replaced. Very basic needs at this time but with an eye on further honing in on making the most of the instrument without a complete overhaul. Hope that makes sense.A few hundred bucks amortized over 10 years or so is pennies a day. How cheap do you want?
The A string is missing. D and G are gut, E is wound. The sound post has fallen, but I'm familiar with installing and adjusting though is been many years since doing so. I know the bridge is currently 1.5 or so inches higher up on the body than it should be currently, but i suspect that's due to someones attempt to cobble up the bridge at some point as that is suspect currently.Ok... So it sounds like the instrument may currently be setup for guts. Were any of those old strings wound, or were they plain guts (of those gut strings that you've seen)?
This is a strong indicator that your fingerboard is probably dressed for fat low tension strings. If that is accurate, thin high tension strings will require a different setup.
Are there strings on the instrument now? If so, are they under tension? There are ways to verify your current fingerboard setup.
Good that you're replacing your bridge. Is the sound post in place, or has it fallen, rattling around inside the instrument?
Given your description so far, it may be smart to assume that the instrument should be inspected by an experienced double bass specialist before installing new strings. Replacing the bridge and the rest of the setup is a non-trivial job, especially if the fingerboard needs to be dressed. The kind of strings that you select will partially determine how the instrument should be setup.
This is what I recalled. I bought a couple sets of Superflexibles before I went to Spirocores, but the Supers did not give me the sound I was looking for. Then I went to Spirocores, Spirocores Weich, and finally Spirocores solo tuned down a step. Now I am a solo tuned down guy all the way, regardless of brand.Yep, Superflexibles, IIRC, have a rope core and are easier on the hands than Spiros. And the solo gauge, tuned down to concert pitch, are going to feel really "bendy". Superflexibles are also a step down from Spiros in terms of cost (but still, made in Austria and imported, so subject to taxes, etc.....).
Warmer, smoother sound when broken in.Is this different from Spirocores solo gauge?
I'm not sure the Tungsten 370 Corellis would be a great pizz string; the nickel 380s might be a better option
My first concern would be to make sure there is no string tension on the top as long as the sound post is not standing in place where it should be. Since you've placed them before, you know it won't stay in place when the double bass is standing, unless there is string tension, so it's somewhat of a deadly embrace until you get it in place. But for the sake of the top, it would be best to keep the strings slack until you're ready to place the sound post.The A string is missing. D and G are gut, E is wound. The sound post has fallen, but I'm familiar with installing and adjusting though is been many years since doing so. I know the bridge is currently 1.5 or so inches higher up on the body than it should be currently, but i suspect that's due to someones attempt to cobble up the bridge at some point as that is suspect currently.
Yes, I'd love to spend the time and money to involve a professional. Unfortunately, I live in a remote area where that is not a realistic expectation for the foreseeable future.
I greatly appreciate the questions and supportive suggestions. I look forward to leaning on the amazing knowledge and experience of yourself and others as I continue on this quest.
Excellent question. Looks like it may have been modified as the current length is 42" measured from the position of the f hole notched to the fingerboard side of the nut. how does that impactstring selection? thank you!I haven’t seen this mentioned before, but is your scale length the traditional 43” for this particular model, or has someone modified it for a shorter string length? It could make a difference.
You can measure where the bridge is
supposed to be (at the notches in the F hole) to the nut.
Thanks for the spot on thoughts. All very valuable and well-received.My first concern would be to make sure there is no string tension on the top as long as the sound post is not standing in place where it should be. Since you've placed them before, you know it won't stay in place when the double bass is standing, unless there is string tension, so it's somewhat of a deadly embrace until you get it in place. But for the sake of the top, it would be best to keep the strings slack until you're ready to place the sound post.
So then the issue is what kind of strings to use. Since the instrument has worn plain D and G and the E is wound, it probably is setup for them too, so a new similar set of guts should be safe. There are a number of synthetic string sets which are also fat and low tension which would probably work as well. I'd highly recommend spending some significant time studying the Gollihur Music string description section (NFI) to become familiar with what is available. Mark Gullihur has a huge variety of just about every kind of string, extremely well documented.
The reason for the luthier suggestion is that there are a number of weak spots with double basses, any one of which could requrie serious time and money to correct, and which would make an investment in a new bridge and strings futile. For example, the neck joint to the body of the double bass is just one of the most common problem areas. With the understanding that it might be difficult, I'd still suggest having the instrument checked out by someone who knows double basses very well, before you start investing hard earned money. A double bass luthier would be ideal, but if you have a seasoned double bass teacher or even a very experienced player in the area -- someone who knows about the weak spots in double basses -- having them look over your instrument would be a wise first step. While we here online can make educated guesses based on good pictures of your instrument, someone with experience looking it over in person, would be much more decisive.
I wish you the very best as you work with this instrument!
Three factors determine the pitch of a string under tension: Length, mass, and tension.how does that [mensure or scale length] impact string selection? thank you!
Uhm, the longer the mensure, the less floppy they will be. String length and tension are inversely proportional for the same pitch.Three factors determine the pitch of a string under tension: Length, mass, and tension.
For a given pitch: As mensure, (scale length), increases, tension and/or mass of the string decreases. For long scales, we use strings designed for less tension and/or less mass/width.
If you've ever played a short-scale bass guitar, you may have noticed that its strings are typically thicker than a long-scale, because they must be less tense.
So ... you might not want solo strings tuned to orchestra pitch on a long-mensure double bass, as they would be floppy.
Exactly, and why I use solo strings tuned down (or gut) on my 42 3/4 inch string length Juzek.Uhm, the longer the mensure, the less floppy they will be. String length and tension are inversely proportional for the same pitch.