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Double Bass budget friendly db strings?

this would be the first full set of strings on this since I purchased it as the 3 old gut strings were totally shotvfrom lack of care and age.
Ok... So it sounds like the instrument may currently be setup for guts. Were any of those old strings wound, or were they plain guts (of those gut strings that you've seen)?

This is a strong indicator that your fingerboard is probably dressed for fat low tension strings. If that is accurate, thin high tension strings will require a different setup.

Are there strings on the instrument now? If so, are they under tension? There are ways to verify your current fingerboard setup.

Good that you're replacing your bridge. Is the sound post in place, or has it fallen, rattling around inside the instrument?

Given your description so far, it may be smart to assume that the instrument should be inspected by an experienced double bass specialist before installing new strings. Replacing the bridge and the rest of the setup is a non-trivial job, especially if the fingerboard needs to be dressed. The kind of strings that you select will partially determine how the instrument should be setup.
 
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A few hundred bucks amortized over 10 years or so is pennies a day. How cheap do you want?
that's a fair question. At this point I'd like to get a set of strings in place to begin determining what other work may need to be done as far as the action and fine bridge work as that too is going to be replaced. Very basic needs at this time but with an eye on further honing in on making the most of the instrument without a complete overhaul. Hope that makes sense.
 
Ok... So it sounds like the instrument may currently be setup for guts. Were any of those old strings wound, or were they plain guts (of those gut strings that you've seen)?

This is a strong indicator that your fingerboard is probably dressed for fat low tension strings. If that is accurate, thin high tension strings will require a different setup.

Are there strings on the instrument now? If so, are they under tension? There are ways to verify your current fingerboard setup.

Good that you're replacing your bridge. Is the sound post in place, or has it fallen, rattling around inside the instrument?

Given your description so far, it may be smart to assume that the instrument should be inspected by an experienced double bass specialist before installing new strings. Replacing the bridge and the rest of the setup is a non-trivial job, especially if the fingerboard needs to be dressed. The kind of strings that you select will partially determine how the instrument should be setup.
The A string is missing. D and G are gut, E is wound. The sound post has fallen, but I'm familiar with installing and adjusting though is been many years since doing so. I know the bridge is currently 1.5 or so inches higher up on the body than it should be currently, but i suspect that's due to someones attempt to cobble up the bridge at some point as that is suspect currently.

Yes, I'd love to spend the time and money to involve a professional. Unfortunately, I live in a remote area where that is not a realistic expectation for the foreseeable future.

I greatly appreciate the questions and supportive suggestions. I look forward to leaning on the amazing knowledge and experience of yourself and others as I continue on this quest.
 
I recently tested a bunch of strings looking for lower tension. I didn’t spend $3k, but I’m sure Mr. Condino would mock me (which is fine - different strokes ;-)). I’ll try to get around to listing them by tomorrow. Spiro solos tuned orchestra are really nice on my bass. If someone listed some at a good price, they would be a great place to start! Weichs are great too - brighter and higher tension than the solos downtuned. I settled on Perpetual Starks. There are several subtle sound and feel reasons I prefer them, but they have a similar sound to broken in Spirocores, and tension is between weichs and orchestra tuned solos; and the differences are SUBTLE. Unfortunately, they are expensive. The spiro solos were my runner up, and if I didn’t have the budget to try so many and didn’t enjoy nerding out, they would be on my bass.
 
Yep, Superflexibles, IIRC, have a rope core and are easier on the hands than Spiros. And the solo gauge, tuned down to concert pitch, are going to feel really "bendy". Superflexibles are also a step down from Spiros in terms of cost (but still, made in Austria and imported, so subject to taxes, etc.....).
This is what I recalled. I bought a couple sets of Superflexibles before I went to Spirocores, but the Supers did not give me the sound I was looking for. Then I went to Spirocores, Spirocores Weich, and finally Spirocores solo tuned down a step. Now I am a solo tuned down guy all the way, regardless of brand.
 
After I wrecked my hands messing around with my double bass (I had no idea) I realized I needed low tension strings if any progress was to be realized or imagined. Reading and learning on these forums I decided to try LaBella Supernil 1006, cause they were cheap and didn’t seem to need anything in the way of messing with the bridge or drilling larger holes, or anything else. They’re still available and inexpensive. They are wobbly and rolly when first strung. They take about two or three weeks to settle down and a lot of tuning during that time. But they did their job and allowed me to learn and practice. Now a couple years down the line they’re still sounding fresh (and have stayed in tune after the initial break in period).
 
The A string is missing. D and G are gut, E is wound. The sound post has fallen, but I'm familiar with installing and adjusting though is been many years since doing so. I know the bridge is currently 1.5 or so inches higher up on the body than it should be currently, but i suspect that's due to someones attempt to cobble up the bridge at some point as that is suspect currently.

Yes, I'd love to spend the time and money to involve a professional. Unfortunately, I live in a remote area where that is not a realistic expectation for the foreseeable future.

I greatly appreciate the questions and supportive suggestions. I look forward to leaning on the amazing knowledge and experience of yourself and others as I continue on this quest.
My first concern would be to make sure there is no string tension on the top as long as the sound post is not standing in place where it should be. Since you've placed them before, you know it won't stay in place when the double bass is standing, unless there is string tension, so it's somewhat of a deadly embrace until you get it in place. But for the sake of the top, it would be best to keep the strings slack until you're ready to place the sound post.

So then the issue is what kind of strings to use. Since the instrument has worn plain D and G and the E is wound, it probably is setup for them too, so a new similar set of guts should be safe. There are a number of synthetic string sets which are also fat and low tension which would probably work as well. I'd highly recommend spending some significant time studying the Gollihur Music string description section (NFI) to become familiar with what is available. Mark Gullihur has a huge variety of just about every kind of string, extremely well documented.

The reason for the luthier suggestion is that there are a number of weak spots with double basses, any one of which could requrie serious time and money to correct, and which would make an investment in a new bridge and strings futile. For example, the neck joint to the body of the double bass is just one of the most common problem areas. With the understanding that it might be difficult, I'd still suggest having the instrument checked out by someone who knows double basses very well, before you start investing hard earned money. A double bass luthier would be ideal, but if you have a seasoned double bass teacher or even a very experienced player in the area -- someone who knows about the weak spots in double basses -- having them look over your instrument would be a wise first step. While we here online can make educated guesses based on good pictures of your instrument, someone with experience looking it over in person, would be much more decisive.

I wish you the very best as you work with this instrument!
 
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I haven’t seen this mentioned before, but is your scale length the traditional 43” for this particular model, or has someone modified it for a shorter string length? It could make a difference.
You can measure where the bridge is
supposed to be (at the notches in the F hole) to the nut.
Excellent question. Looks like it may have been modified as the current length is 42" measured from the position of the f hole notched to the fingerboard side of the nut. how does that impactstring selection? thank you!
My first concern would be to make sure there is no string tension on the top as long as the sound post is not standing in place where it should be. Since you've placed them before, you know it won't stay in place when the double bass is standing, unless there is string tension, so it's somewhat of a deadly embrace until you get it in place. But for the sake of the top, it would be best to keep the strings slack until you're ready to place the sound post.

So then the issue is what kind of strings to use. Since the instrument has worn plain D and G and the E is wound, it probably is setup for them too, so a new similar set of guts should be safe. There are a number of synthetic string sets which are also fat and low tension which would probably work as well. I'd highly recommend spending some significant time studying the Gollihur Music string description section (NFI) to become familiar with what is available. Mark Gullihur has a huge variety of just about every kind of string, extremely well documented.

The reason for the luthier suggestion is that there are a number of weak spots with double basses, any one of which could requrie serious time and money to correct, and which would make an investment in a new bridge and strings futile. For example, the neck joint to the body of the double bass is just one of the most common problem areas. With the understanding that it might be difficult, I'd still suggest having the instrument checked out by someone who knows double basses very well, before you start investing hard earned money. A double bass luthier would be ideal, but if you have a seasoned double bass teacher or even a very experienced player in the area -- someone who knows about the weak spots in double basses -- having them look over your instrument would be a wise first step. While we here online can make educated guesses based on good pictures of your instrument, someone with experience looking it over in person, would be much more decisive.

I wish you the very best as you work with this instrument!
Thanks for the spot on thoughts. All very valuable and well-received.
 
how does that [mensure or scale length] impact string selection? thank you!
Three factors determine the pitch of a string under tension: Length, mass, and tension.
For a given pitch: As mensure, (scale length), increases, tension and/or mass of the string decreases. For long scales, we use strings designed for less tension and/or less mass/width.
If you've ever played a short-scale bass guitar, you may have noticed that its strings are typically thicker than a long-scale, because they must be less tense.

So ... you might not want solo strings tuned to orchestra pitch on a long-mensure double bass, as they would be floppy.
 
Three factors determine the pitch of a string under tension: Length, mass, and tension.
For a given pitch: As mensure, (scale length), increases, tension and/or mass of the string decreases. For long scales, we use strings designed for less tension and/or less mass/width.
If you've ever played a short-scale bass guitar, you may have noticed that its strings are typically thicker than a long-scale, because they must be less tense.

So ... you might not want solo strings tuned to orchestra pitch on a long-mensure double bass, as they would be floppy.
Uhm, the longer the mensure, the less floppy they will be. String length and tension are inversely proportional for the same pitch.