• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Bugera 1960 for bass

Ok, found out something. I’ve noticed that the amount mA sent to the tubes actually is delay for a bit (anywhere from 30sec-1.5mins after firing off). The mA reading on the 5881 and 6L6WXT+ right after lifting the standby switch, was approx 10-12mA. The mA reading on the 6550 would be approx 24mA right after lifting the standby switch. After a few seconds, readings would then go up on all tubes.

Now the odd one out of the bunch was the Bugera EL34. Right after lifting the standby switch, the mA reading was 0mA (yes…as in ZERO / NADA). After about 2 minutes, the mA jumped up to normal current.

So here is some data I gathered on it:

Ruby 6550A-STR: 29.5-30.8mA @ 484pv
Sovtek 5881/6L6WGC: 32.7-34mA @ 485pv
Sovtek 6L6WXT+: 31.5-32.2mA @ 485pv
Bugera EL34: 29.5-30.2mA @ 487pv


Don't think that these numbers are crazy low. Anywere from 50-60%. May seem on the cold side....HOWEVER don't forget that during playing these will numbers drive up so your output will probably RMS around the 70-80w range. The 150w rating is a peak rating and I'm sure while this amp is being pushed hard it will creep up. But looking at just this data, the 5881 seems to be producing more on this set up.


By the way, none of the current readings were solid. They all jumped around a tad bit.
 
  • Like
Reactions: AlexanderB
I thought that the Bugera EL34 sounded weaker after the 6550 in an odd way. Part of it might have been that particular feature. It sounded like the tubes were driving at any volume with zero low end. I ended up cranking the channels to get it to come through. I'm talking 5-6 on the volume knob where as I never got above the 2 when running the 6550's. Maybe I'll give it one more shot after getting reacquainted with the stock EL34. I'm hoping to try a 12AU7 or two while I'm at it. I'm thinking this Infinium thing might be cooler in theory than reality. :p
 
  • Like
Reactions: AlexanderB
...Now the odd one out of the bunch was the Bugera EL34. Right after lifting the standby switch, the mA reading was 0mA (yes…as in ZERO / NADA). After about 2 minutes, the mA jumped up to normal current.

I just confirmed this much. I had the same nasty overdrive from the output tubes as last night after I pulled the 6550's that's present at any volume setting for about two minutes. Then, all of a sudden I could hear the power swell in and the amp was alive with similar oomph to the B-12XT head (2x 7027A).

I'm running JJ EL34s in my 1960 (non-infinium), and it runs very clean and bassy. I don't get much overdrive until I get up to about 5 or so on channel 2.

Mine was back to normal after the amp got acquainted with the EL34 again. With 6550's it's very clean and bassy.

All in all, I might just eat shipping and send it back. It's a pretty killer Marshall imitation for it's price range-some guy who stopped by practice thought it was vintage! I don't like the Infinium feature's two minute power up time and I'm not sure it's the right amp for me (at this point in time.) Even with the big 'ol valves, I'd need a second cab to really use this head.
 
Shy of a real rebias for 6550's or finding another cheap Goliath series cab, it'll just be the knife at a gunfight. I like the amp but need a little more clean headroom. I'll have to see what the future holds...
 
Shy of a real rebias for 6550's or finding another cheap Goliath series cab, it'll just be the knife at a gunfight. I like the amp but need a little more clean headroom. I'll have to see what the future holds...

I haven't played through a Goliath in a long time, but I remember them being shy in the mids. I'm thinking that's not a good match for a 100 watt tube head unless you don't need to be very loud.
 
You'd be far better off buying another matching 410.
Read up on matching driver sizes.
The problem with buying another 410 is it'd be cheaper to get an 810. I'll read up on driver sizes though thanks for the tip! May just settle for a 610. The main problem is size. I have a car and transporting an 810 would be impossible the 410 is a big enough pain with how big Ampeg makes their 410HLFs. I love the cab to death though.
 
Looking at getting the 1960 Infinium next payday.
How would this thing sound through an Ampeg 410HLF with a Ampeg 115E on top?
I currently only have the 410 but I'd love to get a 115 and my birthday is in October so I'm curious.

The 410HLF is a 4 ohm cabinet, right? The output impedance choices on the 1960 are 16, 8 and 4 ohms. It isn't designed for less than 4 (which is what would happen if you added another cabinet to your HLF).
 
The 410HLF is a 4 ohm cabinet, right? The output impedance choices on the 1960 are 16, 8 and 4 ohms. It isn't designed for less than 4 (which is what would happen if you added another cabinet to your HLF).
Oh shoot I didn't even think of that. I'm kinda new to the whole stack thing. I've had mine just over a year.

I would DEF NOT match a 410hlf to a 100watter. Just going to lose so much headrooms to the bass output of those speakers. I'd say go svt 410.
Would it really effect my headroom that much? I can't exactly drop more money to go to down to a SVT 410 when the HLF works fantastic for my current amp.
 
I would DEF NOT match a 410hlf to a 100watter. Just going to lose so much headrooms to the bass output of those speakers. I'd say go svt 410.

...
Would it really effect my headroom that much? I can't exactly drop more money to go to down to a SVT 410 when the HLF works fantastic for my current amp.

Looking at your profile, your current amp is a Line6 HD750 which the web tells me is 750 watts into 4 ohms.

The debate of Tube watts vs. Solid-State watts aside, that's a huge difference in power.

Your Line6 has a "Brit" (Marshall Super Bass) model. How's that sound? And, what are you looking for in an amp that your current amp can't give you?
 
  • Like
Reactions: AlexanderB
Looking at your profile, your current amp is a Line6 HD750 which the web tells me is 750 watts into 4 ohms.

The debate of Tube watts vs. Solid-State watts aside, that's a huge difference in power.

Your Line6 has a "Brit" (Marshall Super Bass) model. How's that sound? And, what are you looking for in an amp that your current amp can't give you?
I only use the "Brit" model and that's how I fell in love with the Super Bass tone. My 750HD great on some days but kinda frustrating on others. It's already had it's fan replaced and on certain days the Filter will turn on and off as I'm playing.
Example: I'm playing straight 16's with a pick and every so often the Filter will flicker on and off making the note filtered which isn't my favorite thing to hear when I'm playing. It happens even when I'm running another effect.
Typically I'm only playing on the Brit model using my Schecter P-Custom.
I've always loved the sound of tube amps especially Super Bass like ones and I just want something that won't have problems such as the 750HD.
 
Got my Standard 1960 back for the first time in 2 years. The seller put new El-34's in it.

Here's a pic:

IMAG0720.gif
 
Welp, I ended up sending my 1960 back. I decided against keeping it on the basis that it doesn't play all that well with the Goliath for my three piece. The band likes the 300 Pro a lot better for what we do and I don't disagree. For what it's worth, if I still had the 810 flatback the Bugera would be staying. They get nice and nasty through the big Ampeg cabs.

Anyways, I'll still try to track down some Infinium schematics but the 1960 just wasn't the right amp for me right now. ;)