Hi everyone. I wanted to ask if anyone have some meassurment, or something, because I want to make my own bridge. I have good wood, and I know the man who is good with wood... But I just dont have any meassurments and things... Please, more specific - better. Its for 3\4 double bass...
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Double Bass Build Bridge
- Thread starter Milivojepicuric
- Start date
- Jan 24, 2002
- 2,117
- 950
- Disclosures
- NS Design / AER Endorsing Artist
Probably the easiest thing to do would be to find a good quality blank of the appropriate dimensions and trace it. Make sure you give yourself plenty of room on the feet -- if you've never tried to make a bridge before, you'll be glad to have some space to mess up when you start fitting the feet.
If you are looking for final measurements, check out: http://www.violinbridges.co.uk
They are limited on bass bridges but a very interesting resource.
If you are building from scratch rather than using a blank, pay special attention to grain orientation.
Good luck, post pictures
They are limited on bass bridges but a very interesting resource.
If you are building from scratch rather than using a blank, pay special attention to grain orientation.
Good luck, post pictures
Hi.
+1 to what Mr. Cannon there said.
But, if You're bent on DIY, perhaps a DIYholic like me, here's one way:
#1 Lay a painters tape across the belly so it's centered lenght-wise on the inner F-hole notches.
#2 Find the center line of the string path, and adjust/compensate a bit if the neck side measurement and the end pin measurement don't meet.
#3 Locate the center line of the bass-bar and transfer that location to the tape.
#4 Mark the treble side foot center onto the treble side of the tape, to the same distance from the CL as the bass side mark is.
#5 Draw two lines on both sides of both of the bridge feet centers ~1.5cm from the CL lines (3 cm wide feet).
#6 Lay a stiff cardboard (~20cm*25cm) onto the belly and transfer those bridge feet markings onto the shorter side of the cardboard.
#7 Cut the cardboard so it's a rectangle that has the same width as the outer edges of the bridge feet.
#8 Cut a generous relief between the inner leg markings.
#9 Trim the "legs" so they conform to the belly contour when upright.
#10 Tape the template upright to the middle of the tape.
#11 Decide the string height at the end of the fingerboard, and tape something there that equals that height.
#12 Using a long straight edge, transfrer the FB profile onto the bridge template.
#13 Unless You're preparing to install adjusters (and even if you do), add 2 cm to that height.
Now You have the dimensions that define the rough geometry of the bridge, the rest of the design is up to you.
You can copy some of the classics, or come up with something unique.
Instructions for mating the feet onto the top can be found on other threads in TB.
Plenty of them elsewhere over the 'net as well, but over here at TB You can communicate with the people giving those instructions (and defending their way) IMO better than on some other sites
.
Good luck, and please don't hesitate to post at least the result(s), we all start from somewhere.
Regards
Sam
+1 to what Mr. Cannon there said.
But, if You're bent on DIY, perhaps a DIYholic like me, here's one way:
#1 Lay a painters tape across the belly so it's centered lenght-wise on the inner F-hole notches.
#2 Find the center line of the string path, and adjust/compensate a bit if the neck side measurement and the end pin measurement don't meet.
#3 Locate the center line of the bass-bar and transfer that location to the tape.
#4 Mark the treble side foot center onto the treble side of the tape, to the same distance from the CL as the bass side mark is.
#5 Draw two lines on both sides of both of the bridge feet centers ~1.5cm from the CL lines (3 cm wide feet).
#6 Lay a stiff cardboard (~20cm*25cm) onto the belly and transfer those bridge feet markings onto the shorter side of the cardboard.
#7 Cut the cardboard so it's a rectangle that has the same width as the outer edges of the bridge feet.
#8 Cut a generous relief between the inner leg markings.
#9 Trim the "legs" so they conform to the belly contour when upright.
#10 Tape the template upright to the middle of the tape.
#11 Decide the string height at the end of the fingerboard, and tape something there that equals that height.
#12 Using a long straight edge, transfrer the FB profile onto the bridge template.
#13 Unless You're preparing to install adjusters (and even if you do), add 2 cm to that height.
Now You have the dimensions that define the rough geometry of the bridge, the rest of the design is up to you.
You can copy some of the classics, or come up with something unique.
Instructions for mating the feet onto the top can be found on other threads in TB.
Plenty of them elsewhere over the 'net as well, but over here at TB You can communicate with the people giving those instructions (and defending their way) IMO better than on some other sites
. Good luck, and please don't hesitate to post at least the result(s), we all start from somewhere.
Regards
Sam
There is measurement information here for bass, cello, viola, and violin:
(also includes some construction and fitting information)
http://www.musictrader.com/fittingabridge.pdf
This was originally all on a web page. Now it is in pdf form. Easy to save.
Note that there is a discrepency -
On page 3, bridge foot thickness is stated as being 21mm.
The illustration on page 9 shows it as 23 mm.
-
(also includes some construction and fitting information)
http://www.musictrader.com/fittingabridge.pdf
This was originally all on a web page. Now it is in pdf form. Easy to save.
Note that there is a discrepency -
On page 3, bridge foot thickness is stated as being 21mm.
The illustration on page 9 shows it as 23 mm.
-
Hi.
That's a good one, the basis for what I used when I fitted my first DB bridge.
I noticed another head-scratcher back in the day as well.
For a novice like me anyway.
The illustration tells that the trademark should be facing the tailstock, even though all the blanks I've bought have been cut so the trademark faces the FB side.
Since the bridge orientation should be chosen for the grain orientation rather than the side the trademark happens to be, no biggie, but it took me a bit of extra digging to find that out.
Regards
Sam
That's a good one, the basis for what I used when I fitted my first DB bridge.
I noticed another head-scratcher back in the day as well.
For a novice like me anyway
.The illustration tells that the trademark should be facing the tailstock, even though all the blanks I've bought have been cut so the trademark faces the FB side.
Since the bridge orientation should be chosen for the grain orientation rather than the side the trademark happens to be, no biggie, but it took me a bit of extra digging to find that out.
Regards
Sam
Jake deVilliers
Commercial User
- May 24, 2006
- 6,349
- 607
- Disclosures
- Owner of The Bass Spa, String Repairman at Long & McQuade Vancouver
