It would cost more than used or a cheap new cab. But if you can spend $300-$500 you can make a cab that would cost you $1000-$2000 to buy. That means using a BFM or Greenboy design, though, trying to match what they have to offer would be at least a five year learning process, maybe ten years along with a engineering degree for the BFM stuff.
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Building a Cabinet
- Thread starter SplinteredSkull
- Start date
How much well that littler monster weigh? 3/4 & lined with 1 1/2" posts! That has to be bomb proof, but I would want wheels or a hand truck at least.
Building a fEARful 12/6 with Alpha mid can be quite affordable. Not as cheap as a 2nd hand Peavey cab, but not crazy money either, especially if you know someone with some clamps and power tools so you don't have to buy them just for the build.
The benefits are that you get the satisfaction of making something which (in almost all builders cases) turns out to be pretty awesome, and some really enjoy the process, too. I know I enjoyed making my 15/6 and I wouldn't replace it with anything. I wuv my widdle cab of all-conquering power!
The benefits are that you get the satisfaction of making something which (in almost all builders cases) turns out to be pretty awesome, and some really enjoy the process, too. I know I enjoyed making my 15/6 and I wouldn't replace it with anything. I wuv my widdle cab of all-conquering power!
Tools are not to be underestimated. When looking at the costs of building, tools and other associated expenses are something that new builders usually underestimate. After buying a lot of new cutting tools, clamps, routers, guides, measuring tools, glue, jigs, tolex, corners, connectors, etc...then the costs can go right past what you would spend for used. Unless you have access to a fully stocked woodshop, you might be saying, I could have just bought a new one...
+1...This is why I build, to make something cool.
I have a large array of tools available (hopefully everything i need). And those kits on speaker hardware would make it easier to get everything i need. So it would somewhat be worth it to make your own, as a commercial cabinet of a similar set-up would cost more, but the chances of sound quality being lesser increase
Depending on what i'll have to spend and what's on the market i may or may not decide to build one
The kits on speakerhardware.com are definitely the way to go!
That will save you a lot of time, costs and headaches.
There is a complete section of DIY builds in the FAQ sticky on the top of this forum.
I guarantee you that you can avoid many of the mistakes made by others and benefit from all the good advice found in these threads as well as the comprehensive research done collectively by the site membership.
Download and play around with WinISD. You will quickly find out that the speaker design specs (Thiele/Small parameters) will be different for various drivers. Some lend themselves better to ported designs and some better to sealed box designs. Even after picking a usable set of drivers, you will find that adjusting things like box volume, port design and lengths and so forth will produce some remarkable changes in frequency response.
Fortunately for you, you have access to freeware tools here to optimize your performance requirements versus your budget.
I have a rebuild of my own in there that Mr Fitzmaurice assisted me with. Very educational. I also tried to work it within a budget. I spent a lot of time doing my homewotk, including reading homework material such as Vance Dickason's Speaker Design Cookbook.
The end result was I ended up with a cab I was happy with and that is very usable. I also learned a lot, especially how much I didn't know about speaker designs. I learned that custom building is not going to save me money, but it was a satisfactory and worthwhile use of my time as part of my own ongoing process of education. I also have a complete list of things I would do differently next time.
Or you may opt to buy yourself a used cab within your budget, or buy an empty premade box such as Avatar can sell you and choose the driver(s) and mids or tweets yourself and design your own crossovers. Or any combo thereof.
The one thing you should not do is stuff a random speaker in a box and assume it is going to perform up to your expectations. Unless you have done your homework, your chances of success are limited. With some homework, your chances are pretty good.
There are some designs available that are pre-engineered for specific drivers and cabinet alignments such as those sold by Bill Fitzmaurice and others that have extensive engineering work put into to them and are proven performers. Then if you just want to build the box and stuff in the components you are still going to come out with a performance winner.
So, follow the yellow brick road.
I guarantee you that you can avoid many of the mistakes made by others and benefit from all the good advice found in these threads as well as the comprehensive research done collectively by the site membership.
Download and play around with WinISD. You will quickly find out that the speaker design specs (Thiele/Small parameters) will be different for various drivers. Some lend themselves better to ported designs and some better to sealed box designs. Even after picking a usable set of drivers, you will find that adjusting things like box volume, port design and lengths and so forth will produce some remarkable changes in frequency response.
Fortunately for you, you have access to freeware tools here to optimize your performance requirements versus your budget.
I have a rebuild of my own in there that Mr Fitzmaurice assisted me with. Very educational. I also tried to work it within a budget. I spent a lot of time doing my homewotk, including reading homework material such as Vance Dickason's Speaker Design Cookbook.
The end result was I ended up with a cab I was happy with and that is very usable. I also learned a lot, especially how much I didn't know about speaker designs. I learned that custom building is not going to save me money, but it was a satisfactory and worthwhile use of my time as part of my own ongoing process of education. I also have a complete list of things I would do differently next time.
Or you may opt to buy yourself a used cab within your budget, or buy an empty premade box such as Avatar can sell you and choose the driver(s) and mids or tweets yourself and design your own crossovers. Or any combo thereof.
The one thing you should not do is stuff a random speaker in a box and assume it is going to perform up to your expectations. Unless you have done your homework, your chances of success are limited. With some homework, your chances are pretty good.
There are some designs available that are pre-engineered for specific drivers and cabinet alignments such as those sold by Bill Fitzmaurice and others that have extensive engineering work put into to them and are proven performers. Then if you just want to build the box and stuff in the components you are still going to come out with a performance winner.
So, follow the yellow brick road.
.
Yes, though to be honest I added a horn and crossover to my 212 to get a little more upper mid/top end out of it.
I did a similar thing with one of my Eminence 1x15s for the same reason.
I have frequency response graphs for them somewhere at home. If I remember later I'll post them here.
Cost? I can't recall exactly, but I really shopped around for the Kappalite speakers to get the cheapest price I could.
I think the total costs of building the cabs were:
For the 212 maybe $800 total
....and about $500 for the single 15" with the horn and crossover.
Yes, though to be honest I added a horn and crossover to my 212 to get a little more upper mid/top end out of it.
I did a similar thing with one of my Eminence 1x15s for the same reason.
I have frequency response graphs for them somewhere at home. If I remember later I'll post them here.
Cost? I can't recall exactly, but I really shopped around for the Kappalite speakers to get the cheapest price I could.
I think the total costs of building the cabs were:
For the 212 maybe $800 total
....and about $500 for the single 15" with the horn and crossover.
I built my 12/6 with the following tools:
$25 jigsaw
electric drill
couple screw drivers
chisel (for getting off dried glue... not 100% necessary)
large carpenter's square (very necessary!)
This does not include a few other things you'll need like sandpaper, paint brush etc.
That said, most people have that stuff lying around.
$25 jigsaw
electric drill
couple screw drivers
chisel (for getting off dried glue... not 100% necessary)
large carpenter's square (very necessary!)
This does not include a few other things you'll need like sandpaper, paint brush etc.
That said, most people have that stuff lying around.
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f15/low-cost-diy-practice-coffeehouse-tweeterless-110-[long]-736360/
I read it through (over the course of a couple of days
and it really got me interested... in the end though I realized I just don't have the spare time these days. That, and I found a used Schroeder 110 for relatively cheap which satisfied the GAS for around the same cost (if you include and value your time).
Having said that, I think I understand where you're coming from. Building a box is relatively straight forward compared to building a bass... so if you have the urge to make your own rig, a cabinet is the logical place to start.
I read it through (over the course of a couple of days
and it really got me interested... in the end though I realized I just don't have the spare time these days. That, and I found a used Schroeder 110 for relatively cheap which satisfied the GAS for around the same cost (if you include and value your time).Having said that, I think I understand where you're coming from. Building a box is relatively straight forward compared to building a bass... so if you have the urge to make your own rig, a cabinet is the logical place to start.
Right, but slamming a driver in a box isn't how good cabinets are made. I build speakers- it's not always a good result the first time and it might take several to get it right.
That said, the manufacturers have the parameters and have build many boxes for their drivers, so don't be afraid to call and ask for cabinet size, stuffing density/material and port size.
I've done three fEarfuls. 15/6/1's coming in at about $600+or- depending on price of the parts. The 12/6 with the alpha 6 mid came in right at $300. (I got a great deal on the 3012LF and bought the Alpha used for $30.) Once you hear one, any doubts will disappear. Once you build one, there's no going back.
All were done from scratch in my garage. I'm a carpenter by trade and I have tools and a space to work. That makes these cabs a fun day in the shop. Having a few bar clamps helps, but you can do this with a minimum of tools. Puzzling out the crossovers, also built from parts, was the hard part for me, and that wasn't a big deal either.
Speaker Hardware has done you the favor of gathering all the stuff in one place and letting you decide how much you want to do for your self. Just having the one stop shopping can save you quite a bit in shipping, as you used to have to source parts from two or three places.
If I had it to do over again, I'd build one, or a pair of 12/6's and call it good. IMHO the 12/6 alpha is the sweet spot and the biggest bang for the buck. I haven't taken anything but the 12/6 out to play for quite a while. It's fairly light, fits in the trunk of a Corolla, and kicks butt for any club gig with PA support and bar gigs without.
I've done other DIY cabs with varied, mostly poor results. The kind of project that starts when somebody gives you a driver and you figure, "I'll build a box for that. How hard can it be?" Greenboy's "shareware" designs have been a huge gift to DIY bassists. The forum at Greenboy's site is full of folks who are happy to help you through a build.
The performance in awesome, simply off the charts for a cab at any price. Find out what a B string really sounds like! There is no need to attempt to re-invent the wheel, these plans will take you through a successful build, and you'll end up with a cab you'll love.
If you want to start at dead simple, a TL 606 can be built very cheaply and works well with a wide array of 15" drivers. I built a pair with 3015's from scraps of plywood I had laying around, each costing under $200. (this was back when 3015's where $150)
Have fun!
All were done from scratch in my garage. I'm a carpenter by trade and I have tools and a space to work. That makes these cabs a fun day in the shop. Having a few bar clamps helps, but you can do this with a minimum of tools. Puzzling out the crossovers, also built from parts, was the hard part for me, and that wasn't a big deal either.
Speaker Hardware has done you the favor of gathering all the stuff in one place and letting you decide how much you want to do for your self. Just having the one stop shopping can save you quite a bit in shipping, as you used to have to source parts from two or three places.
If I had it to do over again, I'd build one, or a pair of 12/6's and call it good. IMHO the 12/6 alpha is the sweet spot and the biggest bang for the buck. I haven't taken anything but the 12/6 out to play for quite a while. It's fairly light, fits in the trunk of a Corolla, and kicks butt for any club gig with PA support and bar gigs without.
I've done other DIY cabs with varied, mostly poor results. The kind of project that starts when somebody gives you a driver and you figure, "I'll build a box for that. How hard can it be?" Greenboy's "shareware" designs have been a huge gift to DIY bassists. The forum at Greenboy's site is full of folks who are happy to help you through a build.
The performance in awesome, simply off the charts for a cab at any price. Find out what a B string really sounds like! There is no need to attempt to re-invent the wheel, these plans will take you through a successful build, and you'll end up with a cab you'll love.
If you want to start at dead simple, a TL 606 can be built very cheaply and works well with a wide array of 15" drivers. I built a pair with 3015's from scraps of plywood I had laying around, each costing under $200. (this was back when 3015's where $150)
Have fun!
Oh, and welcome to Talkbass by the way.
Thank you kindly. And all of these replies have been very helpful and informative. Big ups for the links and personal input, I thank you all
Jim Carr
Dr. Jim
- Jan 21, 2006
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Scott in Dallas
Commercial User
- Aug 16, 2005
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- Builder and Owner: DJ Ash Guitars
I built a 1X15 cab with an Eminence Legend CB158. Just the one driver. No crossover. Simple as it gets. Ported box. 2 3in. dia. ports. 1/2in Birch plywood. Corners, handles, plain cloth grill, caster wheels. Covered with Herculiner. Total cost $318 dollars including paint brushes, sand paper etc.. No tool cost, as I already had everything needed. Sounds really good. Has enough ooomph for small, indoor gigs. Only thing I have changed is port length. Started with long ports. Thought I would need ports tuned real low to get a good low D. Turned out really, really responsive from low D to about C on A string. Shaking walls. Too much! Shortened the ports, raising the port tuning. Good balance now. Next step is to try an Eminence Kappalite 3015 in the same box.
I started there, with just a jig saw and stuff laying around. But then I kept breaking blades trying to rip some Baltic birch, so I needed a circular saw. [The place where I get the best wood locally won't rip cut for you. I have to rip to get it into the car].
I'm with you...
Oh no. On top of GAS[Gear Acquisition Syndrome], I have TAS [Tool Acquisition Syndrome]. Then TAS goes into overdrive if you start building guitars in addition to cabs. I'm doomed.
At least with TAS, you can get the approval of wifey. "I need a biscuit cutter to make you that jewelry box, after I build a 2x15 and learn how to use it."
