Buy or build - spec my P bass!

[Yonni]

I can't find what I want off the shelf for under £1,000 ($1,250). So I'm going to make a parts P bass. What I'm after is:
Lightweight < 8.5lbs (back and shoulder issues)
Jazz neck
Single pickup
Passive

Obviously I'm going Hipshot ultra light tuners but what else are your suggestions to reach my goal? I like a bit of burp and rasp from the pickup. Kind of like Scot Divine gets (I know it's in the fingers but what will get me close). I'm thinking EMG GZRs or SD Quarter Pounders. Any other ideas.
Any suggestions for lightweight bridges? What pots are good?

I've never done this before. I'm fairly competent with drills and soldering but any advice welcome.

 

[mongo2]

I hear you about medical issues. For a P sound I went with a Mustang P/J at several ounces under 8 lbs and $550. However I frequently use lighter instruments such as a Hofner Ignition Club bass (4.5lbs).

Over the years I've cobbled together quite a few comparatively light basses but I keep going back to two, the Hofner Club and a modded mid '60s Silvertone 1444.

 

[honeyiscool]

CTS 500k pots with a 0.022uF is what I'd usually put in a P-Bass, though I actually prefer Bourns pots.

If you want that kind of tone from a pickup, I would probably not use a Duncan QP. I'd probably just use a Duncan SPB-1.

The Hipshot A bridge is nice and light in aluminum.

 

[Lesgo]

With that budget, you can likely buy all the parts to your spec from Warmoth, put it together, then pay a pro to go over and finish it.

I just did that, with the EMG Geezers, too. Roasted maple tapered neck. Hipshot ultralights. Finished the body with a floor wax. I'm ready to get it back from the shop.

 

[Yonni]

I'm looking to get it done for around $750. Heading to a shop today to see what they've got in stock. I'm also trying to use local music stores rather than online. A few good shops have closed recently and I miss them. So I'm only using the internet when I can't get stuff from a bricks and mortar store. I don't mind paying a bit extra for the service.

 

[Malak the Mad]

@Yonni; A couple of years ago, I wanted to build a low-cost, travel-worthy Jazz bass that was easy to lug around while still sounding at least halfway decent. I ended up building this sweet lil', axe that ended up weighing in at a hair under three kilos.

In short, I suspect the biggest factors involved in it's "flyweight" design were the Hipshot Ultralites and the Paulownia body. To be honest, I was hoping for a lightweight finished product…something to the tune of 4kg or less…but didn't suspect I'd turn out something that stupendously airy. And thanks to the overall weight, "neck-dive" doesn't really play a factor in it much, but if it ever becomes an annoyance, I can certainly afford to add a fistful of grams by getting a super-chunky high-mass bridge. (Oh, noes! My full-sized Jazz bass now weighs seven pounds! Imma gonna get crushed under all that weight!! Pu-lease… )

 

[mongo2]

@Yonni;

And thanks to the overall weight, "neck-dive" doesn't really play a factor in it much, but if it ever becomes an annoyance, I can certainly afford to add a fistful of grams by getting a super-chunky high-mass bridge. (Oh, noes! My full-sized Jazz bass now weighs seven pounds! Imma gonna get crushed under all that weight!! Pu-lease… )

I find it much easier to move the top strap button to the upper left neck screw (viewed from the back) using a longer screw. The basses with light tuners I've done that on balance much better, neck dive is alleviated, the feel much more comfortable to me and their weight doesn't change. I may also locate the lower strap button a few inches up the side of the body but that's very rare.

 

[Malak the Mad]

I find it much easier to move the top strap button to the upper left neck screw (viewed from the back) using a longer screw. The basses with light tuners I've done that on balance much better, neck dive is alleviated, the feel much more comfortable to me and their weight doesn't change. I may also locate the lower strap button a few inches up the side of the body but that's very rare.

That's quite an interesting idea! Thanks for that suggestion! Fortunately for me, it's not an issue right now, but I'll definitely file that away for later use.

 

[M-rek]

I just finished my build. It's based on a Mattia Franchin Guitars (based in Italy) P bass body, which weighs 1.9 kg / 4.1 lbs. Attached a project neck to it (no name, made in Japan), some Gotoh Res-o-lites and a vintage f-style bridge. Total weight: 3.8 kg / 8.4 lbs.

 

[Yonni]

I just finished my build. It's based on a Mattia Franchin Guitars (based in Italy) P bass body, which weighs 1.9 kg / 4.1 lbs. Attached a project neck to it (no name, made in Japan), some Gotoh Res-o-lites and a vintage f-style bridge. Total weight: 3.8 kg / 8.4 lbs.
View attachment 3482547

Loving the colour!

 

[CallMeAl]

@Jim C didnt you have a similar quest?

Edit
Who makes a passive P with a J neck - 8.5 lbs or less; under ,500

 

[Jim C]

@Jim C didnt you have a similar quest?

Edit
Who makes a passive P with a J neck - 8.5 lbs or less; under ,500

Yes and have not had great results. Here's what I've found to be true:

Nate Mendel bass might be OK but not dropping $925 for a Fender MIM bass.

G&L and Lakland make great basses but they are clueless as to how to make them light; most of their off shore and US models weigh more than 8.5 lbs (unless ordered with Empress).
They are out there (like my Lakland 44-02) but are few and far between.
NOBODY lists the weights on the off shore versions.
Frustrating plus no stocking dealers near me.

EB stopped making their passive offering P.

Sadowsky is out of budget and I'm not wild about active in general and especially that tone.
It's a great one but something I have covered.

Thought about Reverend but nowhere to try.

Some of the J bass necks are way to thin (front to back) for me.
Like the Sandberg (and am currently trying to wire it passive) but I want more baseball bat thickness.
A big fat "C" shape that is chunky but only 1 1/2" at the nut; think early to mid 70's Fender A neck.
Sandberg is too shallow and flat to be perfect.

This next bass has to be a great one and I'm not into experimenting or building.
Sometimes parts basses need more work to make right than it's worth (to me).
Or, if I could find a source for the right neck, send it all to a luthier as I have some P's that would work with a next swap.

Thinking about a used Valenti or Mike Lull.
They both are usually very light and although I haven't played one, the reports sound really good.
Not sure if they have chunky 70's A style necks though.

Maybe I can't do this for $1,500.

Any other ideas?

 

[Malak the Mad]

Some of the J bass necks are way to thin (front to back) for me.
Like the Sandberg (and am currently trying to wire it passive) but I want more baseball bat thickness.
A big fat "C" shape that is chunky but only 1 1/2" at the nut; think early to mid 70's Fender A neck.

I forget if I've already made this suggestion, but have you had a chance to try out a Fender MIM Classic '70s Jazz reissue? Between the front-to-back thickness and the curvy fretboard, it's pretty well suited to "swinging for the cheap seats".

I don't know if you're ever up in my Delawarian neck o' the woods, but there's a Guitar Center local to me that has one hanging on the wall that could use a good home (…then maybe it'll finally stop calling out to me every time I swing by that store! ). One could take their time to give such a neck a proper shakedown trial to see if would fit the bill for a presumptive lightweight parts-bass build. If nothing else, they'll soon be lost to history. Once the Fender Vintera series takes hold, the same bass will enjoy a 20+% uptick in price.

 

[Gilmourisgod]

+1 Warmoth parts, you really can't go wrong with them, particularly the necks. Get the "superbass" style with CF stiffeners (not steel) if you want to keep it light. Not inexpensive, but my Warmoth neck is the most stable wood neck I own. The body doesn't matter as much, but get something light and pre- finished, unless you are a glutton for punishment.

 

[Yonni]

I don't know if I can get Warmoth parts in the UK. I'll look into it. Certainly US made rosewood necks are either impossible or impossibly expensive to get.

 

[murphy]

just to put it out there....
The Player series and American performer seem to have slimmer necks than traditional Precision basses and might be worth trying also...as do the previous Mexi P basses......You might be surprised....I was

 

[AHaze]

I'll regurgitate the answer I give every time someone is looking for a light P with a 1 1/2" nut:
Find a USA Peavey Fury, replace pickup with your favorite, do something fun with all the money you saved.

 

[Yonni]

just to put it out there....
The Player series and American performer seem to have slimmer necks than traditional Precision basses and might be worth trying also...as do the previous Mexi P basses......You might be surprised....I was

I'm on holiday with the family this week and found a music store with loads of p basses. Back home I hardly see any straight Ps, it all seems to be PJ or active. I found 3 that were significantly lighter than all the others. In fact if I was out to buy a straight P bass I would have walked out with a MIM sunburst despite having the cash for an Am Pro or Elite. But where's the fun in that? I'm doing it to get the exact spec I want but also for the experience.

 

[mongo2]

In fact if I was out to buy a straight P bass I would have walked out with a MIM sunburst despite having the cash for an Am Pro or Elite. But where's the fun in that? I'm doing it to get the exact spec I want but also for the experience.

If I didn't have P substitute I would've bought it to use while my ultimate P project was finished then use it as a backup or sell it. Then there's the possibility the MIM P might even be better than the project and become #1. I've had similar happen.

 

[Jim C]

Or maybe I will just buy a nice lightweight J style and add a P pickup like this one:
For Sale - G&L Tribute JB-2 & case