mid 1973 were about the last months for the full width sharkfins
Tuners look wrong for a 4001 to me, but i may be mistaken.
ETA: Looks like a good buy for $900
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Buying a '73 Rick 4001; advice requested
- Thread starter JoePlaysDaBass
- Start date
mid 1973 were about the last months for the full width sharkfins
Tuners look wrong for a 4001 to me, but i may be mistaken.
ETA: Looks like a good buy for $900
I had a 70 4001 for years, I wish I still had it but life and children can get in the way.
Anyway, the tuners disintegrated around 1978. They simply would no longer turn. It wouldn't bother me to have had the pickguard and tuners replaced as long as I was buying a player, not a collectors item.
Anyway, the tuners disintegrated around 1978. They simply would no longer turn. It wouldn't bother me to have had the pickguard and tuners replaced as long as I was buying a player, not a collectors item.
I dont think ricks values are hurt much by a refinish like fenders are. I would be tempted to order replacement rick tuners and a new guard then have a luthier take it down to natural and clear it thus creating a mapleglo, although the wear is cool so keeping it black wouldnt hurt. Either way new tuners and guard would be my priority.
Having bought a mint condition, all original used 74 or 75 4001 in 1976, the machine head tuners were hopless playing live, Schaller ( big ones ) installed, made the neck dive worse, the rick-o-sound plate and 1/4" jacks ditched for an XLR, 1Kw crackling from the originals was not happening live.
Many reasons we changed factory items in the 70's, still have the bass with me today. RS66LD's really did a job on the frets, though i never noticed it being a problem, the wear, which slows down as the fret wire cross section increases, to resist the abrading strings.
OP, hope the bass works out for you, do what we allow for in purchasing 30-40 year old Italian motorcycles, 25% on the purchase price to cover repairs or maintenance requirements, if you do not spend that allowance, tell your wife how much you "saved" on the bass.... worked for me... grin.
PS, as one wise poster remarked about truss rods, the last time i adjusted the truss rod on my rick 4001, was in 1976. Beware the dreaded "previous owner" syndrom.
Many reasons we changed factory items in the 70's, still have the bass with me today. RS66LD's really did a job on the frets, though i never noticed it being a problem, the wear, which slows down as the fret wire cross section increases, to resist the abrading strings.
OP, hope the bass works out for you, do what we allow for in purchasing 30-40 year old Italian motorcycles, 25% on the purchase price to cover repairs or maintenance requirements, if you do not spend that allowance, tell your wife how much you "saved" on the bass.... worked for me... grin.
PS, as one wise poster remarked about truss rods, the last time i adjusted the truss rod on my rick 4001, was in 1976. Beware the dreaded "previous owner" syndrom.
In addition to the truss rods, take a good long look around the headstock and neck, just below the nut. Look at both sides carefully for any signs of cracking or separation at the binding. This is where the neck usually pays the price, if someone has adjusted the truss improperly.
Ric5
Inactive
- Jan 29, 2008
- 29,772
- 30,452
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- I like 5, 8, 10, and 12 string basses
Nice!
