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Double Bass Buying a new amp

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Looking for some opinions here. Own a SWR
Workingman’s 300 head, Workingman’s 4x10 and SWR Basic 2-way 1-15. The head stopped working for some reason. Speaker switch light turns on but the light next to the power button doesn’t. No souls comes out and the red clip light stays illuminated. Guessing the transformer is shot.

Was looking at used heads online and I think I’m gonna go with a Gallien Krueger 1001RB. Was also considering the GK MB500. I have never played through either but have researched it and came across posts on this site as well as YouTube and it seems like a Terre good amp. I’m assuming it’s at least 15 to 18 years old or more? I’m also assuming it would be a big step up over that working man’s 300 that I bought back in 1996 and is the only one I’ve ever owned.

I’ve never had an understanding for watts and ohms. I just bought the head, plugged it in and played as a 22 year old know it all. Now that I’m much older, I’ve been doing some reading and can’t believe I never paid attention to that aspect of it. At any rate, I have some questions I was wondering if anyone here could help me out with. Will either one of those GK amps be a big improvement? What about using either one of those with the cabinets that I own?

The other thing is, both of my cabinets say they are 8 ohms. The 4 x 10 says 400 watts and the 1 x 15 says 250 W. What happens if I have them both hooked up to a 4 ohm head at the same time vs one or the other?

if I use one of the 2 output jacks on the GK 4 ohm head to one of my 8 ohm cabs, I’m only getting half of the specified wattage, correct? The 1001RB says 700 watts at 4 ohms and 460 watts at 8 ohms. But if I use both output jacks on the app to each of my 8 AM cabinets, they now become four ohms each and you get a full 700 watts? How is that for 700 divvied up between the two cabinets? Will they blow, considering the ratings on them are 400 for one and 250 for the other?
 
Looking for some opinions here. Own a SWR
Workingman’s 300 head, Workingman’s 4x10 and SWR Basic 2-way 1-15. The head stopped working for some reason. Speaker switch light turns on but the light next to the power button doesn’t. No souls comes out and the red clip light stays illuminated. Guessing the transformer is shot.

Was looking at used heads online and I think I’m gonna go with a Gallien Krueger 1001RB. Was also considering the GK MB500. I have never played through either but have researched it and came across posts on this site as well as YouTube and it seems like a Terre good amp. I’m assuming it’s at least 15 to 18 years old or more? I’m also assuming it would be a big step up over that working man’s 300 that I bought back in 1996 and is the only one I’ve ever owned.

I’ve never had an understanding for watts and ohms. I just bought the head, plugged it in and played as a 22 year old know it all. Now that I’m much older, I’ve been doing some reading and can’t believe I never paid attention to that aspect of it. At any rate, I have some questions I was wondering if anyone here could help me out with. Will either one of those GK amps be a big improvement? What about using either one of those with the cabinets that I own?

The other thing is, both of my cabinets say they are 8 ohms. The 4 x 10 says 400 watts and the 1 x 15 says 250 W. What happens if I have them both hooked up to a 4 ohm head at the same time vs one or the other?

if I use one of the 2 output jacks on the GK 4 ohm head to one of my 8 ohm cabs, I’m only getting half of the specified wattage, correct? The 1001RB says 700 watts at 4 ohms and 460 watts at 8 ohms. But if I use both output jacks on the app to each of my 8 AM cabinets, they now become four ohms each and you get a full 700 watts? How is that for 700 divvied up between the two cabinets? Will they blow, considering the ratings on them are 400 for one and 250 for the other?
This forum is for Double Bass amps, mics, pickups. Going by your current rig, I'm guessing you didn't mean to post here.

Try over here: https://www.talkbass.com/forums/amps-and-cabs-bg.15/
 
It's not that you won't find very experienced amp people here... There are quite a few. And you'll also find double bassists who double on electric bass. But the stronger focus here is on how this kind of equipment works with double basses. And, the population here is probably 1/50th of what you'll find on the TB/BG side of the world.

Best of luck in your research!
 
It's not that you won't find very experienced amp people here... There are quite a few. And you'll also find double bassists who double on electric bass. But the stronger focus here is on how this kind of equipment works with double basses. And, the population here is probably 1/50th of what you'll find on the TB/BG side of the world.

Best of luck in your research!

Gotcha. My eyes are so tired from watching YouTube videos and scrolling through the site since about two this afternoon. Kind of OCD I guess!
 
Older 1001RBs have a square grill.
images


The later MkII amps make more power and have a slight different voicing. These have oval grills.

image-asset.png

Screen-Shot-2019-09-05-at-8.46.49-PM.png


I don't know whether the redline MKII come first or last. Maybe @Kro knows and will comment.

AFAIK the MkIIs were produced into 2021.

The 1001RB was designed to work with GKs proprietary biamp cabs. These amps have a built in tweeter amp that is high passed at 5K. There is a button to run the woofer amp full-range or apply a 5K low pass. So it's not a problem if you don't use the biamp feature...just turn the tweeter amp down.

The MB500 should be significantly smaller and lighter, and have similar sound. MB500 does not have biamp capability.

GK is no longer making amps that biamp. Starting with series IV, GK Neo Cabs not support biamp. The older Neo cabs do. Also I believe GK still makes an RBH15 and RBH410 that are biampable. By modern standards the RBH cabs are very heavy.

It would be helpful if you could say how much you want to spend. Two reasons to buy a 1001RB, 1. you like the sound and performance, 2. they meet your price point.

GK is not particularly good at supporting older models. When these amps were in production, they sold replacement circuit cards, that could be used to replace faulty components in the amp. GK no longer makes the replacement cards, so a repair would be at the component level, rather than replacing an entire card. The technology used in these amps has pretty much become obsolete, and AFAIK some of the semiconductors are no longer made. If they are currently available, they probably won't be in the near future.

As an example, I have a pair of 2000RBs from the 90s, and they have quite a few obsolete semiconductors that are difficult to source. Last time I checked (over 5 years ago), you could get some of them, but the minimum buy was something like 500 or 1000 units.
 
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Older 1001RBs have a square grill.
images


The later MkII amps make more power and have a slight different voicing. These have oval grills.

image-asset.png

Screen-Shot-2019-09-05-at-8.46.49-PM.png


I don't know whether the redline MKII come first or last. Maybe @Kro knows and will comment.

AFAIK the MkIIs were produced into 2021.

The 1001RB was designed to work with GKs proprietary biamp cabs. These amps have a built in tweeter amp that is high passed at 5K. There is a button to run the woofer amp full-range or apply a 5K low pass. So it's not a problem if you don't use the biamp feature...just turn the tweeter amp down.

The MB500 should be significantly smaller and lighter, and have similar sound. MB500 does not have biamp capability.

GK is no longer making amps that biamp. Starting with series IV, GK Neo Cabs not support biamp. The older Neo cabs do. Also I believe GK still makes an RBH15 and RBH410 that are biampable. By modern standards the RBH cabs are very heavy.

It would be helpful if you could say how much you want to spend. Two reasons to buy a 1001RB, 1. you like the sound and performance, 2. they meet your price point.

GK is not particularly good at supporting older models. When these amps were in production, they sold replacement circuit cards, that could be used to replace faulty components in the amp. GK no longer makes the replacement cards, so a repair would be at the component level, rather than replacing an entire card. The technology used in these amps has pretty much become obsolete, and AFAIK some of the semiconductors are no longer made. If they are currently available, they probably won't be in the near future.

As an example, I have a pair of 2000RBs from the 90s, and they have quite a few obsolete semiconductors that are difficult to source. Last time I checked (over 5 years ago), you could get some of them, but the minimum buy was something like 500 or 1000 units.

Wow… thank you very much for posting all that information, that’s awesome! The one I’m looking at has the oval grill on the front with the red writing and was at guitar center and it’s in fair condition. Looks a little scratched but I guess it’s just cosmetic. It’s listed for $329.99. They also have the same one listed in great condition for $489.99. The MK500 is going for $269.99 in fair condition.

I didn’t even think about components going bad and then being discontinued. I don’t want to get back into the game and buy something that’s real old and have it break on me just like my original SWR head that is 27 years old. I’m really not sure what to look for at this point. As far as what I want to spend, I was thinking anywhere in between 300 to maybe $425. I don’t think you can get anything worth a darn for that price new. Maybe I’m wrong.
 
Wow… thank you very much for posting all that information, that’s awesome! The one I’m looking at has the oval grill on the front with the red writing and was at guitar center and it’s in fair condition. Looks a little scratched but I guess it’s just cosmetic. It’s listed for $329.99. They also have the same one listed in great condition for $489.99. The MK500 is going for $269.99 in fair condition.

I didn’t even think about components going bad and then being discontinued. I don’t want to get back into the game and buy something that’s real old and have it break on me just like my original SWR head that is 27 years old. I’m really not sure what to look for at this point. As far as what I want to spend, I was thinking anywhere in between 300 to maybe $425. I don’t think you can get anything worth a darn for that price new. Maybe I’m wrong.

Depending on how much power you need, you could consider a 700RB MkII as well. 480W for the 700RB vs 700W for the 1001RB.
 
Depending on how much power you need, you could consider a 700RB MkII as well. 480W for the 700RB vs 700W for the 1001RB.

I probably don’t need 700 Watts. I always overdo everything I buy. But like what we said before, I’m wondering if it’s smart to buy such an old amp? Is it someone else’s problem that’s not for sale? Also, if something were to go wrong, they’re discontinued and the components are no longer made for any repairs that might happen. Not real sure what to do.
 
I probably don’t need 700 Watts. I always overdo everything I buy. But like what we said before, I’m wondering if it’s smart to buy such an old amp? Is it someone else’s problem that’s not for sale? Also, if something were to go wrong, they’re discontinued and the components are no longer made for any repairs that might happen. Not real sure what to do.

IMHO if you buy a new amp with warranty that is repairable, it will cost more. It's a trade off. Only you can weigh the pluses and minuses and decide what is right for you.

If you buy an old amp cheap and it breaks, you weigh whether to try and have it repaired or buy another cheap old amp. A new Mesa Subway TT800 with a 5 year warranty would be cool, but they run about $1400. You could buy 3 to 4 GK 700RBs for that.
 
Regarding the combination of the amps with your cabs, only the 500 watts amp would be safe to work in all combinations (either single or double).
The bigger one would only be safe to be used with the 4x10 from the wattage.

Of course you can use the 1x15 250 watts with the larger amp, but need to turn the volume low enough to avoid killing the coil by excess power or mechanical damage. It is often hard to decide where that point is, so better avoid it.
 
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