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BVV3000 INFINIUM Trial

#301
Hi guys,

I have a Bugera BVV3000 Infinium which has been constantly blowing it's 3.15A HT fuse. I ended up running it with a combination of 3 Tungsol 6550s and 3 original valves in order to keep the valve LEDs off. I've since dicovered because the original valves were pretty much spent, running them together with the newer ones wasn't a good idea. - So I need to know is the HT fuse a Slow-Blow or a Quick-Blow type?
 
#302
What does the owner’s manual say? Is this a user replaceable part, or does a (qualified) service tech need to verify items BEFORE replacing the fuse?
 
#303
Tim Payne said:
Hi guys,

I have a Bugera BVV3000 Infinium which has been constantly blowing it's 3.15A HT fuse. I ended up running it with a combination of 3 Tungsol 6550s and 3 original valves in order to keep the valve LEDs off. I've since dicovered because the original valves were pretty much spent, running them together with the newer ones wasn't a good idea. - So I need to know is the HT fuse a Slow-Blow or a Quick-Blow type?
Click to expand...

This guy might be able to help you and a good tech to fix the problem
Audio Repair Berlin - Hotfixes
 
#304
20210508_013855.jpg
This is the only reference to fuses that I could find in the user manual.
 
#305
Assuming the fuse is in the HT (or B+) DC supply, this means that it’s not intended to be replaced by an end user. Generally when these fuses fail, other failed parts are involved also. A qualified tech will know what to test before powering the amp up with a new fuse.
 
#307
I know that although I have had it working before with new output valves. With nothing visually defective I'm gonna go by what the other fuses are on different areas of the amp. My guess is that it's a Fast-Blow as it was working before I swapped out the 'bad' tube. - From there on I'll try it with a fresh set of 6550s and make sure the impedance is matched!
 
#308
Without knowing exactly what the fuse is used for, and WHY IT FAILED, you are just guessing.

It’s why the statement “no user serviceable parts inside” covers internal fuses.
 
#310
I ran it set to 4 ohms with an 8 ohm load. (4 ohms into a 4 ohm load and it's fine, didn't realise it was so sensitive when running an 8 ohm load).

I've run Marshalls, Selmers etc into a bigger load with no problems so I guess the valves have had it as I was unknowingly overloading the output transformer at the least. - It's also intesresting to note that the early SVTs from which this amp is derived has only one 10A fuse on the mains supply rail. - The only other "fuses" were the 22 ohm screen resistors; I know this because one failed on my amp and this is what I've learnt by researching various schematics and chat resources etc.
 
#312
First, your amp is no more sensitive to that mismatch than any other amp using this topology. You were not overloading the output transformer.

Fuses are utilized in more places within the circuit on newer amps in order to protect against additional damage, and in many cases are necessary for the amp to meet international safety standards in the event of failure. Since you do not know what else might have failed, there is a power up procedure that a QUALIFIED technician will use to prevent additional damage while testing to determine what other parts may have failed. If the fuse is really a 3.15A fuse, the power up procedure is different and specific to this section of the amp.

Now are you sure this is a 3.15A fuse and not a .315A fuse??? If it is 3.15A, it's not related to the B+ line and in fact has nothing to do with anything but protecting the heater supply transformer's primary. If it has failed, you have something else going on and thorough (proper) troubleshooting is needed to identify the fault.

What is the exact part number stamped on the end cap of the fuse?

What is your experience level, how well can you analyze circuitry, especially your experience with working around high voltage (~500V) circuitry?
 
#313
Whereabouts are you Tim? An earlier contributor recommended an amp tech in Berlin. If you are in Germany I'd recommend you contact Behringer customer services as whilst this amp is long out of production they may be able to recommend an amp tech they equipped with the necessary data back in the day. Uli Behringer couldn't have been more helpful when I needed some help with my BVV3000.
 
#314
Sparky Mark said:
Whereabouts are you Tim? An earlier contributor recommended an amp tech in Berlin. If you are in Germany I'd recommend you contact Behringer customer services as whilst this amp is long out of production they may be able to recommend an amp tech they equipped with the necessary data back in the day. Uli Behringer couldn't have been more helpful when I needed some help with my BVV3000.
Click to expand...
 
#315
I'm in the UK I'm afraid. Just trying to sell the amp really so it needs to have a clean bill of health if you get my drift. A serious shoulder injury a while back means I struggle to lift it any distance, and I accept it ain't going away.
 
#316
agedhorse said:
First, your amp is no more sensitive to that mismatch than any other amp using this topology. You were not overloading the output transformer.

Fuses are utilized in more places within the circuit on newer amps in order to protect against additional damage, and in many cases are necessary for the amp to meet international safety standards in the event of failure. Since you do not know what else might have failed, there is a power up procedure that a QUALIFIED technician will use to prevent additional damage while testing to determine what other parts may have failed. If the fuse is really a 3.15A fuse, the power up procedure is different and specific to this section of the amp.

Now are you sure this is a 3.15A fuse and not a .315A fuse??? If it is 3.15A, it's not related to the B+ line and in fact has nothing to do with anything but protecting the heater supply transformer's primary. If it has failed, you have something else going on and thorough (proper) troubleshooting is needed to identify the fault.

What is the exact part number stamped on the end cap of the fuse?

What is your experience level, how well can you analyze circuitry, especially your experience with working around high voltage (~500V) circuitry?
Click to expand...
 
#317
It's a 315mA fuse that keeps blowing and as this is on the same board as the filter caps I can safely assume it's part of the power supply.

My previous experience with working on valve amps (especially older designs) goes back around 20 years. Although I've smoked a few valves in some and blown countless fuses during this time, my only "shocking experience" was while repairing a friend's old Marshall jmp at the rebiasing stage.
 
#318
So it’s NOT the 3.15A fuse that you stated in post #301?

This is critical information.

There are several 315mA fuses in the amp, they cover different functions, and protect against different faults.
 
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#320
That's correct, it was the same fuse as before which had blown - (see pic)

I've just powered it up with the old sextet on a 4 ohm load and the valves have definately gone. Played at considerable volume to give them some stick!

Thanks for the help all the same.
 

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