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Cab improvements

Little extra comment about bracing... Supposed to damp excess resonance, right? So if you damp a bass string to get a tighter sound, you only need to touch firmly on the extreme end of it. For the same reason a good cabinet brace doesn't have to be big. Better to draw out some unwanted resonant energy than to introduce a bunch of new and unwanted resonances at high frequencies in a cab made for bass.



Plus 1 for that image. This is what I was getting at earlier. Just has to be enough, where most needed.

Horse had said nothing untoward, in fact, I think it was good hearted, a tinge of sarcasm about the "first rule". That cab is braced.

So.... you talk about things being more mid forward.... those blue wheels are now separating your cab from the floor.

Yes, that could do it. I think boundary effect falls off as an inverse square law so it won't take much distance to get noticeable.

Yeah, they are. Smooth and soft. Not hard plastic. I got the 15 because I wanted a speaker that was a single use cab. One that would out perform the single 12 I was using. Because, while my 12 was great, I was slightly volume limited. Having the bigger speaker seemed like the way to go. I have big things for big things. I wanted a solid, small, single cab solution good for most everything. It was just lacking in a few ways. Since I got it cheap, I figured doing a little work would be a great little project.

It could look odd, but if you used the 12 on top, you might get some more forward sound that way. Also, if you get parallel impedance matching right for the amp, the power could be pushed carefully, the 12'' would go first if you overdid it, but it's the cheaper one, so you'll avoid hurting the big one that way. If you like bright raw tone with lots of bass heft in it, this might work well. Or it might not, but you probably have everything you need to try it.
 
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The size (and dimensions) of the cabinet, the materials, how the porting is constructed all contribute to the porting needs and effectiveness of different bracing approaches.

One well placed, properly sized brace can be more effective than randomly slapping “brace like objects” all over. The point of a brace is to minimize uncontrolled movements of the cabinet panels as well as transfer/absorb energy due to such movements.

It’s a balance (IME) between light weight and just the right amount of bracing to get the job done. Respecting this point of diminishing returns is part of the design. Also, it’s possible to over-brace, just like it’s possible to add too much acoustic damping material, resulting in a cabinet that sounds “sterile” and “lifeless”, or “uninteresting”.
 
Yup. I got mad. It won't happen again.
Let me help you understand what happened here, maybe you can learn from this.

Decades ago, I was touring with an “old dog” production manager. This was a good opportunity to learn how to get along on a tour with a group of guys who wouldn’t naturally have come together except for the work of the tour.

One of the lessons we all learned is that one of the experienced heads of department explained something, listen first, then before opening our mouths to argue we should stop and think about it. Then rather than argue, ask questions and treat it as an opportunity to learn something.

That advice allowed me to enjoy a long (~35 years), successful touring/tour support career without ever getting fired. This is in addition to and during my design career.

The quickest way to get fired from a tour (based on what I have seen) is to fly off the handle disrespectfully. In retrospect, this appears true in many other things as well.
 
Done.

View attachment 4824201 View attachment 4824202 View attachment 4824203

She's tighter, and more mid forward now. Still rattling the walls, but much clearer. With a little bit of time, and a little bit of money. I think I knocked a lead off my tweeter though, cause I can't hear it anymore. All in all though, much better. Now, I can clearly hear the logo plate rattling on the grill. Hahaha. I'll stick a little peice of that stuff to it. Trim it down and screw it back on.
Wheels match the speakers. Dat's da bomb man!
 
One of the lessons we all learned is that one of the experienced heads of department explained something, listen first, then before opening our mouths to argue we should stop and think about it. Then rather than argue, ask questions and treat it as an opportunity to learn something.
Yup!! I had a great career for 20+ years as a tech on the road. I learned this early on and was invited back on some pretty big productions because of my skills but more importantly i was able to get along with my own department heads and crew and other departments too. I’ve dealt with egos that were pretty unbearable at times but when you can back up that ego with experience and things that make sense, it gets easier to deal with them and gain respect for that individual and can turn into mutual respect and even friendships.

anyway,
@JeezyMcNuggles , cool mod on that cab. Hope it keeps rocking for you.
Im a fan of making things better for your own needs!!
 
Let me help you understand what happened here, maybe you can learn from this.

Decades ago, I was touring with an “old dog” production manager. This was a good opportunity to learn how to get along on a tour with a group of guys who wouldn’t naturally have come together except for the work of the tour.

One of the lessons we all learned is that one of the experienced heads of department explained something, listen first, then before opening our mouths to argue we should stop and think about it. Then rather than argue, ask questions and treat it as an opportunity to learn something.

That advice allowed me to enjoy a long (~35 years), successful touring/tour support career without ever getting fired. This is in addition to and during my design career.

The quickest way to get fired from a tour (based on what I have seen) is to fly off the handle disrespectfully. In retrospect, this appears true in many other things as well.
Yeah.

I was wrong for how I reacted.

I apologize.
 
@agedhorse:. Andy, is there any use of auto soundproofing, the cut to size material like Dynamat for cabinet damping?
Not really, that material is more appropriate for solving transmissive rather than reflective conditions.

It’s not that it won’t work, but there are better, more effective materials that weigh (a lot) less.
 
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Yeah.

I was wrong for how I reacted.

I apologize.
Accepted.

Before posting accusing that someone is wrong, I suggest that you research the subject first to understand better the REAL information and data about how something works.

The world is complicated, some of us here have spent many years studying these subjects in school and the real world experience. Our comments are based on these experiences.
 
In case anyone wonders why I didn't pitch in, it's because I make enough noise already, and I think those involved can take care of themselves, and last but not least: Do not meddle in the affairs of wizards, for they are subtle and quick to anger. :)

About damping materials, no cab of mine needs more than it's got, the room is a far bigger offender (or would be had I not placed things to help absorb its worst resonances). What I did do was make a big castored cabinet for a computer whose case holds several drives and fans. I used studio grade absorbing panels, the thick foam ones with protrusions like egg trays, to trap noise. It's extremely effective, which is why I wouldn't put it in a cab, it would kill any vibrancy it has in it. I can barely hear that computer, the keyboard is many times louder. Designing that computer cabinet was interesting, making sure heat can get out but sound can't...
 
I suppose with all this, no one wants to see or hear about the fantastic speaker cab I made from the cardboard box the speaker came in. It should not sound so good but it does! I tried it with a Bogner Mini and a small tube amp. Say what you will, it’s for fun. Super Swamp Special!
3C266AE5-895F-4C6B-A3E6-21B938E6C666.jpeg
204838B2-044A-4DDB-8BBD-0B817547769F.jpeg
 
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The size (and dimensions) of the cabinet, the materials, how the porting is constructed all contribute to the porting needs and effectiveness of different bracing approaches.

One well placed, properly sized brace can be more effective than randomly slapping “brace like objects” all over. The point of a brace is to minimize uncontrolled movements of the cabinet panels as well as transfer/absorb energy due to such movements.

It’s a balance (IME) between light weight and just the right amount of bracing to get the job done. Respecting this point of diminishing returns is part of the design. Also, it’s possible to over-brace, just like it’s possible to add too much acoustic damping material, resulting in a cabinet that sounds “sterile” and “lifeless”, or “uninteresting”.
I JUST USE ALL MESA BOOGIE GEAR AND I AM GOOD TO GO. SUBWAY BASS CABINET STACKS AND TT-800 HEADS. MARK V35 FOR GUITARS. NEVER HAD ANY PROBLEMS AND IMO THEY ARE CERTAINLY ONE OF THE LEADERS IN AMPLIFICATION.
I DON'T HAVE TO WASTE MY TIME DOING CARPENTRY WORK, I SPEND IT PLAYING WHICH IS WHAT I LOVE.
 
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Yup!! I had a great career for 20+ years as a tech on the road. I learned this early on and was invited back on some pretty big productions because of my skills but more importantly i was able to get along with my own department heads and crew and other departments too.

You two forgot another important road lesson... "Walls have ears." ;)

That can get you more work or blackballed.