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Double Bass Can I continue to play my bass before getting it repaired?

Just spatula-ing some Shoe-Goo into the crack would be a lot simpler and probably would work just as well.
Well, yes, "Disaster Version One" is probably about "as good as" "Disaster Version Two" in this case.

Although the wrong mix of glues COULD result in the conversion of the bass directly into energy at the rate E = mc^2. (Personnel trained in the treatment of burns should be standing by).
 
Well, yes, "Disaster Version One" is probably about "as good as" "Disaster Version Two" in this case.

Although the wrong mix of glues COULD result in the conversion of the bass directly into energy at the rate E = mc^2. (Personnel trained in the treatment of burns should be standing by).

So this would be like a Pyre-ic victory?
 
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Luthiers that repair acoustic guitars, mandolins, broken headstocks etc. have been using titebond or elmers for quite a while. I don't know about violins since the material is thinner.

Respectfully, since you mention that you don't know about violins, I would suggest that maybe you shouldn't offer up recommendations on how to repair violin family instruments. What works for acoustic guitars and mandolins doesn't necessarily apply to double basses and Titebond/Elmers is pretty much never used on them for a number of reasons.
 
Luthiers that repair acoustic guitars, mandolins, broken headstocks etc. have been using titebond or elmers for quite a while. I don't know about violins since the material is thinner. The only spruce top cracks I've seen repaired have been when they've removed the top and patches have been applied to the inside but the crack has also been spread opened a bit and laden with adhesive comprised of watered down white glue then braced until dry. Epoxy would be a radical departure. A hot knife will separate whiteglue like fish, horse, or hoof adhesives. It could be a resonance issue and that's why fine instruments use high glue or hoof glue or fish glue, but to be frank I understand that there has been a shift over the last couple of decades away from that. The last time I used fish glue was repairing leather air sacs on player pianos back in the 80s.

Respectfully, since you mention that you don't know about violins, I would suggest that maybe you shouldn't offer up recommendations on how to repair violin family instruments. What works for acoustic guitars and mandolins doesn't necessarily apply to double basses and Titebond/Elmers is pretty much never used on them for a number of reasons.

I don't know why this is so hard for people. It's not necessary to give advice on every thread and if you're not specifically knowledgeable on the subject at hand...maybe it's a good opportunity to listen rather than speak.
 
Fish glue is fine but 99% of my repairs are done with hide glue. The key is to use glue that is easily removed to allow for future repair. If anyone used Titebond on a repair like that and brought the bass to me later I would make it known that that area was off limits. That applies to a future soundpost crack that will possibly occur because some amateur got bad advice and did an amateur repair. It’s a very simple repair for a pro.
 
^^^
This! 100%!

I am an advocate of double bass owners learning elementary double bass Lutherie, as many here know, but PLEASE do not use anything but the natural collagen-based glues on a violin-family instrument. Hide glue and its cousins are reversible, while all the ones listed as comic relief (above) are not reversible.
(While on the subject: the bottled, liquid “hide glue” on the market has a tendency to reverse itself, reconstituting to mucilage by absorbing moisture in humid conditions.)
 
An example of bottled hide glue with too much eurea that keeps it liquid at room temperature:

B97.JPG


B98.JPG
 

Okay, let's keep going.

Your profile has an extensive list of gear that you own and gear that you have previously owned. Not one mention of a doublebass anywhere in there.

You've posted 1,260 times in BG threads and 27 times in DB threads.

What exactly qualifies you to dig in on advice contrary to the doublebass luthiers and players here? Is your body of knowledge on this subject that you read that one thread that you linked?

Is it possible that you're wrong and giving bad advice or are you that sure if yourself?
 
I’m 62 years old and still remember my third grade teacher giving students strips of construction paper as rewards or punishment. Boy, did I feel bad getting a black one one day. I got something similar here on TB for calling someone an idiot and I vowed to never do that again……
My sibs and I were not allowed to call anyone an idiot or moron (unkind) or tell anyone to shut up (vulgar). But I do get tested as a grown-up. (Just an observation...)
 
I’m 62 years old and still remember my third grade teacher giving students strips of construction paper as rewards or punishment. Boy, did I feel bad getting a black one one day. I got something similar here on TB for calling someone an idiot and I vowed to never do that again……

Just use "idiot" in a thread title and watch what happens.
 
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Shoulda used Gorilla Glue. JB Weld? Maybe RTV silicone tub caulk.

https://www.talkbass.com/threads/shen-bass-construction.1345196/
Okay, let's keep going.

Your profile has an extensive list of gear that you own and gear that you have previously owned. Not one mention of a doublebass anywhere in there.

You've posted 1,260 times in BG threads and 27 times in DB threads.

What exactly qualifies you to dig in on advice contrary to the doublebass luthiers and players here? Is your body of knowledge on this subject that you read that one thread that you linked?

Is it possible that you're wrong and giving bad advice or are you that sure if yourself?

Originally I was wondering if the OP's bass is a solid top or a laminate. Then the pile on started. Then it became interesting. A lot of what-ifs were never addressed. Cost benefits weren't brought in on repair estimates etc... The Shen thread was interesting and a result of a search for what glues are used for mass marketed imports. Nothing more than that really.
The "discussion" went from a split or crack repair to what not to use so the instrument could be disassembled easily. I never mentioned deck screws (which I have seen btw) or 8 penny nails, I swear...

I'm still wondering if its a solid or laminate top though.
 
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It looked like a carved top to me. Laminates look different when they fracture.
And yes, I have built double basses... and I have repaired numerous double basses.
And STILL, today, I will not call myself an expert. But I have learned some fundamentals, in building nearly fifty violin-family instruments, (not counting all the repairs, rebuilds, and resurrection of dead instruments) and one of them is, (except for gluing in my labels,) I do not use Tite-bond on my instruments.
 
The "discussion" went from a split or crack repair to what not to use so the instrument could be disassembled easily.

That may be because nobody supported the idea of using Titebond or Elmer's for this repair and tried to point out what should be used, regardless of the top's construction. Also, it was mentioned by an actual luthier that this is not an expensive or difficult repair for a professional so no cost benefit discussion seemed necessary.
 
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