Double Bass Canvas Cleat?

[B. Graham]

A while back it witnessed at a shop, a discussion about using a strip of canvas as opposed to a wooden cleat. It may have been being considered to avoid removing the top of the bass.

Is this done? Should it be done? How is it done?

Thanks Fellows.

 

[Jeff Bollbach]

Canvas or linen has been expertly used fo centuries. Linen is superior to canvas. First paint the wood with somewhat thick hide glue, Quickly apply the material and then brush[a fine toothbrush works well] more glue in untill saturation Wipe away excess glue with damp cloth.

 

[B. Graham]

Thanks Jeff. I'll look for some artists linen in the event that I need it.

Could I send you a picture or two of bass I'm trying to get back together? It's the bass I posted as the restoration project. I'm trying to determine if it needs a new bass bar, and what to do about a busted up button area.

Thanks for the instructions.

 

[Paul Warburton]

I've never heard of using a strip of linen in place of a wooden cleat. I've of course heard of lining large areas like the insides of ribs to help strengthen the wood to avoid cracks, but not actual cleating.
Welcome back Jeff!

 

[Sam Sherry]

20 years ago Gage did it on my #2 bass because the top's never been off and I like it that way.

 

[toman]

My Shen came with linen pieces where a 'wing' crack would develop. Not that it did much good, one side cracked after a few months anyway...

 

[B. Graham]

Well despite the potential controversy, I've started with some linen sheets for the upper and lower ribs. The top and back will get wooden cleats.

 

[Bob Branstetter]

Canvas or linen has been expertly used fo centuries. Linen is superior to canvas.

FYI - If you look hard enough, you can find green linen canvas (as opposed to the more common white cotton canvas) at better art suppy shops. It is a little harder to work with than the cotton variety, but I've had good results with it.

 

[Jeff Bonny]

20 years ago Gage did it on my #2 bass because the top's never been off and I like it that way.

Where is it? Do you remember anything about the method he used to get it on?

jeff

 

[Sam Sherry]

I dropped it off and he did it. I didn't stay to watch. It's on some lower-bout cracks.

I imagine he soaked it with glue and carefully stuck it in through the f-holes.

I also imagine that our luthier e-friends are holding their sides in laughter as I reduce an extremely delicate task to thirteen short words. Verily, "The First Two Hundred Are The Toughest."

 

[B. Graham]

FYI - If you look hard enough, you can find green linen canvas (as opposed to the more common white cotton canvas) at better art suppy shops. It is a little harder to work with than the cotton variety, but I've had good results with it.

I found some grey untreated linen. An art supply store had a 54" by 6 yard bolt of it that had been laying around and sold it to me very cheaply. I'm not doing this for a living, so if anyone needs some, I have PLENTY EXTRA.

I dry cut it to shape, used a tooth brush to apply glue to the rib, then used the same brush to impregnate the linen, and lastly I used a flexible 2" putty knife to squeegy out the excess.

I don't know much, but this seemed to work very well and the finish of the linen is pretty smooth.

 

[arnoldschnitzer]

One caveat: I work with linen occasionally, and have found shrinkage to be a problem. To avoid it, I run the material through the washer and dryer, or just wash it in the sink with hot water and detergent. Then I iron it fairly flat when it's dry. Before I started using this PITA process I had problems with patches drying small, or causing rib areas to buckle slightly. No longer.